Madeleines have long been a classic delicacy deeply ingrained in French culture, a fact echoed by Proust’s captivating description in his opus “In Search of Lost Time” (1927). The small elegantly scalloped cakes instantly transport Proust back to the blissful summer days of his youth in Normandy. As he savours the tea-soaked crumbs of these cakes, he is overwhelmed by an indescribable pleasure that sparks an epiphany of past memories.
Despite not having such profound associations as Proust, my experiences with Madeleines from my childhood in France imbue them with a certain nostalgia. The joy they invoke, especially when enjoyed with a warm cup of tea or coffee, is truly delightful. I embarked on a culinary experiment by trying out six different recipes to understand which elements result in the ideal Madeleine. The versions I selected were from Roux, St John, Cedric Grolet (via Dorie Greenspan), Felicity Cloake, Yotam Ottolenghi and Edd Kimber.
As for the ingredients, they are relatively standard. The essentials include melted butter, sugar, flour, a raising agent, and eggs. Some recipe variants opt for a transformative addition of brown butter (St John, Grolet, Cloake), which enhances the flavour significantly. The majority of the recipes call for all-purpose flour and baking powder. St John’s recipe, however, suggests self-raising flour, resulting in less noticeable rising, leading me to believe that all-purpose flour with a controlled quantity of raising agent would be a superior choice. Roux, Grolet and Kimber incorporate a citrus twist with the addition of lemon, while St John, Grolet, Cloake and Ottolenghi infuse their recipes with the sweet floral hint of honey. Other enticing flavours include orange blossom water (Cloake), saffron (Ottolenghi) and Earl Grey Tea (Grolet). While these additions all taste excellent, they may veer away from the traditional Madeleine recipe.
Moving on to the method of preparation…
Various methods are available for blending ingredients, with chefs such as Roux, Grolet, and Kimber preferring a light whisk of eggs and sugar before adding in the rest. Kimber also incorporates lemon zest in the sugar for an enriched citrus kick. St John and Cloake, on the other hand, opt for a rather spirited whisking technique until the egg-sugar mixture volume greatly increases before introducing other ingredients. Ottolenghi employs a food processor. Notably, robust initial whisking of eggs and sugar results in a much softer, fluffier texture.
To chill or not to chill the batter is another variable. Save for Roux’s method, all other recipes advise that the batter be refrigerated for at least an hour, or possibly overnight. This cooling method appears critical in achieving the iconic madeleine bump. Keeping the batter and possibly the baking tin cold until baking confronts them with the oven’s heat, causing the batter to rise upwards.
For baking, all chefs favour greasing the tin with butter and dusting it with flour before adding the madeleine mixture. However, some batter does not fully absorb the flour, leaving dry patches on the underside of the madeleine that may spoil its fluted appearance. As a solution, I recommend using a neutral spray oil such as sunflower or canola. This method ensures the madeleines won’t adhere to the tin without spoiling the shell’s aesthetic. Baking at a fairly high temperature, around 190 degrees, assists with the formation of the characteristic hump and prevents the inside of the cake from becoming too dry. Post-baking glazes are another variant – Ottolenghi uses a honey glaze and tops it off with chopped pistachios, while Kimber opts for a simple lemon icing. While these glazes amplify texture and taste, they may become obstructions if you fancy dipping your madeleine in a hot beverage.
Baking recipe: Maple pecan madeleines
Sources:
– Michel Roux: bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/madeleine_15211
– St John: thelondoneconomic.com/food-drink/recipes/st-john-madeleines-recipe-18561/.
Explore unique methods of creating Madeleines from the expertise of culinary giants. Cedric Grolet’s approach can be unearthed via Dorie Greenspan in the recipe featured on the New York Times cooking website (URL provided above). Contrast this with Felicity Cloake’s method, detailed on The Guardian’s lifestyle page from September 2015. A novel write-up with Helen Goh, SWEET by Ottolenghi, also lends a fresh perspective. Last but not least, discover Edd Kimber’s delicious version on his blog, ‘The Boy Who Bakes.’ All can offer inspiration to novice and skilled bakers alike.