The culinary gem, known as Bearú, located in New Ross, County Wexford, was inaugurated on the 18th of July this year. Jointly operated by the dynamic couple Dave Rowley and Siobhán Ward. The locale offers a refreshing experience beyond the common Dublin establishments.
The restaurant has been masterfully integrated into the town’s character, rather than simply being another tourist attraction. With its location in the town centre, it is surrounded by a pub and a quaint theatre, giving the impression of having always been a part of the town’s charm.
Over the past two decades, Rowley has honed his skills, even fulfilling the role of head chef at numerous eminent restaurants like Bleu Bistro, Dalis, and Juniors. Last year, the pair decided to leave the city behind and set up in Ward’s native place, The Rower, County Kilkenny. The couple has thus transformed this small space in New Ross into something extraordinarily special.
The establishment offers a cosy environment, accommodating 30 individuals during the day and 26 during the night. Its design is tastefully done, featuring a fresh coat of paint, wood paneling, robust wooden furniture and a distinct area for serving beverages. A particular noteworthy detail is the presentation of widely-read recipe books on a high shelf, including works from famous authors like John Wright, Angela Humphreys, Simon Rogan, J P McMahon and Michel Bras.
In the mornings, the cafe serves hearty breakfast, like poached eggs atop oven-roasted mushrooms with salsa verde. The lunch hours focus on serving sandwiches, baked with sourdough bread from Plúr Bakery located in nearby Borris, where Séamus Jordan personally oversees the wheat farming and grinding process. However, according to Grainne, a local resident of Graiguenamanagh, the real treat is the dinner served on Fridays and Saturdays.
The concise menu has been shrewdly crafted, offering merely three options per course – compelling enough for both regular customers and visiting diners. Accompanying the thought-out menu is an equally representative wine list, with affordably priced options like Les Vignes de L’Eglise Vermentino, available for €28.
Our chum is deemed the victor of the supper, having selected the goat’s cheese fondue (£10.82). The old cheese and roasted beetroot pairing is not left unaltered, but instead given a tasteful contemporary spin. This isn’t your typical fondue from yesteryears; it’s much more. St Tola goat’s cheese fondue is made incredibly airy and light through dexterous culinary techniques, teamed admirably with beetroot that provides a satisying crispness. Copious sourdough and brown bread is served along to ensure not a shred of this splendid fondue goes unused.
I opted to start with butter-soaked cod and scallop (£13.54), which serves as an elegant nod to traditional dishes, invoking nostalgia and questioning why many classic culinary methods have seemingly fallen by the wayside. The ingenuity lies in the well-executed combination of the scallop mousseline and cod, completed with a fragile tuille perched on top. The dish is finished with balanced shiso and nasturtium leaves for a botanical punch, complemented by a subtly pickled cucumber that provides a rejuvenating closure.
The main courses further bolster the evident culinary prowess. Delicately brined monkfish (£25.30) is expertly roasted and complemented with a tomato beurre blanc, managing to exude opulence without being overbearing. The Barbary duck (£27.09) is prepared to an ideal pinkness, rested appropriately, and served with a sauce of elderberry and fondant potatoes. A hearty side of potatoes and broccoli ensures satisfaction, underlining a place that does not compromise on their portion sizes.
Finally, the desserts bear mentioning. Pastry chef Claire Griffin diligently prepares baked goodies from the crack of dawn, including helping with the dessert selections, and it clearly shows in the results. The cherry-infused chocolate torte (£9.04) is a fluffy dream, served deconstructed (which I usually disapprove of) along with almond crumble as an accompaniment. The dessert is not just an afterthought but a substantial reason for return visits. Similarly, the panna cotta (£8.13) is an unforgettable treat, especially due to its wobbliness, and is served with honeycomb and blackberries.
Bearú doesn’t require any grand declarations, it confidently performs its role to excellence. You would consider it precisely the establishment a location like New Ross craves: an amicable bistro that dishes out assured, well-valued meals without any hint of snobbery. It provides a refreshing change from the much-explored trails of Dublin. It makes you ponder: wouldn’t it be remarkable if more Irish towns could boast something of this calibre?
A meal for two, including a bottle of wine, cost €139.
Judgement: Assured, tasteful cuisine served in a friendly bistro setting.
Food suppliers: Duncannon Fish Company, Trawler’s Catch New Ross, McCarron Meats, and La Rousse.
Vegetarian choices: One choice per course, for instance, a mushroom tart offering served with confit egg yolk and goat cheese mousse; saffron and scamorza arancino, complemented by aubergine caponata.
Wheelchair accessibility: Room is accessible, but the toilet isn’t.
Music: Pop tunes playing softly in the background.