A trip to the United States’ capital, Washington DC, is certain to serve a generous helping of American culture, especially for political enthusiasts. As election fever takes hold, attention increasingly turns toward this fundamental city. It is a treasure trove for devotees of public administration, abound with emblematic landmarks and places of historical significance. There is a thrill that comes simply from laying your eyes on world-renowned edifices that have been broadcasted and romanticised through myriad of American TV shows, films, literature, and news over the years. Images of the White House conjure memories of beloved films and shows such as Independence Day, The West Wing, The Pelican Brief, and even the surprising addition of Legally Blonde 2. I recall the poignant scene in Forrest Gump set at the Lincoln Memorial and the intense investigative hunt in All the President’s Men revolving around the Watergate hotel. I feel compelled to visit the intimidating steps featured in the classic horror film, The Exorcist, that are located in Georgetown. However, amidst a rich mix of cinematic and TV inspirations, one less conspicuous on-screen location holds a special place in my heart: the kitchen of culinary legend, Julia Child.
Julia Child is a celebrated American culinary artist and writer, particularly renowned for her role in introducing French cuisine to American homes during the 1960s and 1970s, courtesy of her popular television shows and books. In recent years, she has attracted a whole new demographic of fans owing to two successful screen adaptations: the award-winning film, Julie and Julia, and the comedy-drama series, Julia. One cannot help but fall in love with Julia Child, making the experience of witnessing her genuine kitchen all the more exhilarating.
Her kitchen sits within the confines of the National Museum of American History, which is a division of the Smithsonian. This specific museum is dedicated to the exploration of the United States from multiple facets – be it scientific, cultural, social, technological or political. Among the exhibits, you can see Dorothy’s famous ruby slippers from The Wizard of Oz and the original Star-Spangled Banner. Julia Child’s kitchen is methodically organised despite its bustling nature, crammed with an impressive array of culinary tools, gadgets, and knives. Accompanied with a substantial collection of cookbooks on full display, fridges painted black for that chic look, a large Garland stove, and a pegboard wall to accommodate her copper pots and utensils – with every item having its place. A sizeable table draped with a yellow oilcloth sits in the centre, surrounded by an array of mismatched wooden chairs. I never thought I would find inspiration for my new kitchen in Washington DC, but there it was in its full glory.
Once I managed to extricate myself from the delightful pandemonium that represents the American Museum, I set out to explore the other components of the Smithsonian. It was then that I discovered there is truly a vast array of exhibitions to behold. Despite having seen the Smithsonian feature in numerous television shows and films, I hadn’t comprehended that it wasn’t just a single museum, but a collection of 21 museums, forming the most sizable educational, museum and research complex worldwide, with something to cater to all interests.
I must return to discussing Julia momentarily – her kitchen forms part of the exhibition titled FOOD: Transforming the American Table, where it’s possible to acquire knowledge on the history of beer and various other American foods. This tends to remind me however, that US food is frequently pre-packaged, processed and quick rather than wholesome. The unique experience of seeing shelves and shops full of known brands from the screen soon wears thin. After a few days of American cuisine, I find myself longing for nutrient-rich foods and moderate portion sizes but I must admit, I’m taken aback by what the city of DC has to offer. Despite its status as a popular tourist destination and a central business hub, or perhaps because of these factors, there are areas of the city which have a local, neighbourhood feel with a seemingly endless variety of quality food choices.
Locating the best dining options may not always be straightforward – the streets of the city’s tourist hotspots are typically filled with food trucks, displaying an array of seemingly appetising choices. However, be cautious – tempting hotdogs and colourful iced beverages can often prove disappointing. A more reliable option would be the numerous museum cafes and restaurants. For instance, I enjoyed a delightful lunch at the Pavilion Café, nestled in the scenic sculpture garden of the National Gallery. After which I indulged in some award-winning gelato from their Espresso & Gelato Bar.
A great strategy to acquaint oneself with a city’s neighbourhoods, in my experience, is either to go for a bike ride or a walking tour at the beginning. Cycling is particularly popular in DC thanks to the city’s wide-ranging network of bike lanes and picturesque trails. My route of choice was the Monuments and Memorials evening bike tour, entailing a leisurely cycle beside the Potomac river and visits to a multitude of notable historical sites and significant landmarks. Despite there being an overwhelming number of war memorials and numerous school groups to navigate around, this cycling tour offers a comprehensive and enjoyable way to learn the city’s layout. An additional advantage is that the majority of these cycling tours start and conclude in The Wharf, DC’s historic waterfront district, a hotspot full of dining and bar options. A visit to the recently inaugurated Pendry’s rooftop for a cocktail carries the added attraction of panoramic views. For a relaxed meal, consider popping into the all-day Cuban cafe–Colada Shop. A visit to the country’s oldest continuously running open-air fish market and a stroll around the houseboats would also be worthwhile.
For a more insightful experience than the cycling tour, I would recommend the Black Broadway walking tour, guided by native author and journalist Briana Thomas. This tour invites you to explore a lesser-known side of DC, uncovering the rich cultural history of black DC through the arts, music, and significant hustle and bustle of The U Street corridor. The tour wraps up at Ben’s Chili Bowl, thereby allowing a visit to a renowned DC eating establishment. Prepare to join the line to sample the famed half-smoke–a hotdog lavishly draped in chili – at this bustling, retro-style diner. The dining portions are certainly generous, but the overall experience is a delight.
During the early days of my stay, I lodged in the city’s heart, often taking leisurely walks around Shaw, Blagden Alley, and Naylor Court, an area acclaimed for its historical charm and lively atmosphere, and laden with bars, eateries and coffee shops. Morning visits should include Seylou Bakery for their organic baked goods and La Colombe for a cup of coffee. Come dinner, the Michelin-starred plant-based cuisine at Oyster Oyster, Peruvian delicacies at Causa or something more low-key at Unconventional Diner or Maxwell Park wine bar are all worth considering.
Just like various other large metropolises, the food hall craze has been warmly welcomed in DC. This diner hall trend is particularly appealing for tourists, as it provides a quick glimpse into the city’s wide range of culinary offerings and offers an enjoyable day out. The Union Market, a popular food hub, houses over 30 food and drink stalls alongside a selection of transient pop-ups. At Union Market, there is something for every time of day, from morning coffee and bagels to an assortment of meals ranging from Vietnamese pho, American BBQ to Korean bao. Be sure to swing by the contemporary Crooked Run Fermentation taproom for a taste of locally brewed beers.
For an unforgettable lunch or dinner experience, it is recommended to reserve a table at one of the eateries run by the prestigious Starr restaurant consortium. Whichever place you choose, be it the American-style St Anselm for brunch, the DC branch of the popular New York establishment Pastis for lunch, or the Mexican-themed El Rey for an energetic evening meal on the terrace, expect a combination of captivating decor, inventive menu choices and sophisticated cuisine. All of these dining spots are conveniently located near each other. You can also wrap up the day by pouring yourself some Guinness, given you can persuade the supervisor that your pouring skills surpass those of Leo Varadkar, as I once did.
Visiting the delightful town of Georgetown for a day or two is essential. One can stroll leisurely through its history-rich architectural marvels, stop to admire the numerous timbered row houses and navigate through their cobblestone streets. Besides the architectural feast, the shopping is remarkably wonderful – abundant bookstores and antique shops offer an entertaining treasure hunt. The old-world charm of the Sovereign Bar with its extensive selection of brews provides a welcome pause to your sightseeing. For wine enthusiasts, a visit to Chez Billy Sud, a quaint restaurant and bar inspired by French aesthetics is a treat. If your taste buds crave middle-eastern delights, stop by Yellow, a fun Levantine cafe known for their wood-fired pitta sandwiches, mezze, and hummus. Don’t shy away from the queue; it’s worth the wait.
For your dinner plans, consider reserving a table at Martin’s Tavern, a historic eatery with a memorable Washington DC story to tell. It has been the host for all significant personalities of the city, including every president starting from President Truman. The tavern provides insight into moments like JFK’s proposal to Jackie and Richard Nixon enjoying his meatloaf. While not revolutionary in its cuisine, sticking to the basics like local oysters, crab cakes, fries, and a cold martini will end in a satisfying meal. If you fancy pouring your pint of Guinness, you may even do so by convincing the manager, a tradition upheld by Irish politicians who have dined here, like Leo Varadkar.
Bookworms will find delight at Bold Fork Books. It reassured me on my last day that Washington DC is a haven for people with culinary interests. Any cookbook lover shouldn’t miss this bookstore nestled in the vibrant neighbourhood of Mount Pleasant. With shelves stacked with new and classic cookbooks, food magazines, and trending kitchenware, it also offers a fun shopping experience. A spree here, along with a final dash to Trader Joe’s and Whole Foods for pantry essentials might have you worrying about your luggage limit.
Aer Lingus offers direct flights from Dublin to Washington DC. Experiencing DC was made possible by Destination DC. Visit their website for details.