Doug Bierton subtly scans his wrist-accessory over a sensor affixed to the wall and steps into a climate-regulated vault as the temperature notably decreases. This room, requiring specific access permissions, might seem excessive in its restrictions to those unfamiliar with the scene, given the contents are not valuable gems, sought-after timepieces, or antique relics of a forgotten era. Instead, it houses an array of football shirts – a collection of around 6,500 pieces hung neatly on mammoth metallic racks.
This figure represents only a small portion of the inventory held by Bierton’s enterprise, Classic Football Shirts, at any particular time. With over a million shirts, caps, and other sport-related apparel located within an expansive warehouse encompassing the vault, this special chamber is reserved for those items Bierton considers too valuable to let go, including jerseys worn in matches that have made football history.
To a first-time observer, it may resemble a congested wardrobe, showcasing a plethora of synthetic materials in a riotous display of vibrant reds, striking yellows, and royal blues. Still, Bierton can locate a specific shirt within seconds as he has committed the origins, context, and narratives of each piece to memory, including authenticating features such as stains and flaws.
Since 2006, Bierton has been acquiring and trading football shirts through his online platform, Classic Football Shirts, which deals in retro style jerseys. However, despite his entrepreneurial journey spanning nearly two decades, he fundamentally remains a passionate collector and an ardent football fan.
When asked to select his favourites from the company’s private collection, Bierton cringes slightly and jokingly compares it to choosing a preferred child. Interestingly, his choices are not swayed by the items’ rarity, value, or the audacity of their design, but rather by those with personal significance. His prized possession, for instance, is a jersey dating back to the 1991 Cup Winners’ Cup final – a now-defunct European tournament – won by Manchester United, Bierton’s beloved team and one of the earliest matches he recalls.
The Italian Fiorentina’s football kit from 1999 holds a special place in the heart of a certain fan. This particular deep, rich purple shirt holds pride of place in his memory due to its representation during a match against Manchester United. Bierton views his collection as more than a mere accumulation of items; he believes it serves as an investment, a historical catalogue of football, and a potential source of material for museums, television documentaries, or exhibitions. Above all, it stands as a testament to his devotion, and every jersey it houses narrates a distinct tale.
Recently, mother-daughter duo Ilka Husmann and Eila ended up with a spare day at the conclusion of their London holiday. Eager to end the vacation on a high, they decided to undertake a two-hour trek to Manchester. Their goal was simple: to visit the Classic Football Shirts store, somewhat of a pilgrimage as they had already visited the London branch. The outcome of their journey was a collection of retro gear, notably, early ’90s football jerseys from Manchester United, Manchester City, and Liverpool.
In the fiercely competitive English football sphere, a collection encompassing all three rival clubs can be considered taboo. Unfazed by this, Eila chooses to sport the shirts as everyday wear because the design and era it encapsulates matter more to her than club allegiance.
In recent times, Classic Football Shirts has seen an influx of customers in the vein of Eila as vintage football shirts have become trendy streetwear, reinforced by recognition from influencers. The fashion trend reached new heights last year when stars like Kim Kardashian, spotted in a 1997 Roma jersey, Ye (formerly Kanye West), Drake, Addison Rae, and Robert Downey Jr. endorsed various clubs, including Juventus and Celtic.
Classic Football Shirts was started as a love project and side business in 2006 by two students, Bierton and his friend, Dale. They were drawn to retro and unusual jerseys, as opposed to the standard kits sold by football clubs yearly. In the initial phase, they dedicated numerous hours striving to find jerseys that were no longer wanted, exploring thrift shops and markets, surprising retailers by showing up and enthusiastically gathering their redundant stock into a vehicle.
Currently, apart from two standing shops, the duo has conducted pop-up stores in places like Berlin, Tokyo, and New York. They now get their stock directly from jersey manufacturing firms. Additionally, they handle hundreds of vintage jerseys that land in their warehouse daily, discovered from private collections and forgotten corners of wardrobes. The jerseys are then authenticated, appraised by valuation experts, and finally resold.
The future appears promising for the company, as it attracted investment last year from an equity firm, The Chernin Group. Other investors who came onboard in September include former US footballer Alex Morgan, football commentator Stu Holden and actor Rob McElhenny, a co-owner of Wrexham. The company’s agenda includes launching stores all over the United States.
The rising popularity of streetwear undoubtedly plays part in the appeal. Greg Bettinelli, from The Chernin Group, identifies a market similar to sneaker trading platforms like StockX and GOAT in vintage football jerseys. As Bettinelli points out, there is a growing trend of wearing classic jerseys, particularly ones that are rare and cannot be duplicated.
To Bierton and Dale, the unique aspect of their business is that vintage jerseys offer more than just a show of allegiance to a team, they anchor the wearer in a specific time period and signify the depth of their support. As per Bierton, these jerseys are associated with status, being a way to assert one’s understanding of the game.
The concept of football enthusiasts sporting the jerseys of their cherished teams was not immediately adopted in the sport. Iconic jerseys from history, such as those from the 1990 World Cup, were scarcely available for fans according to Bierton, with only a limited number of replicas ever being produced.
However, over the past thirty years, the sport has made remarkable strides to fill this gap. It has been commonplace since the early nineties for teams to bring out at least one new jersey annually, with some introducing as many as three variants, namely home, away, and often, a third one for special occasions or to prevent colour conflicts with rival teams.
The alterations each year range from simple aesthetic tweaks to notable changes such as a different sponsor, maker, or a complete colour makeover. This marketing strategy rooted in capitalism not only represents a sports team but also symbolises unique moments in history, linking back to fans’ personal lives and memories, says Dale.
Having watched customers experience strong emotional reactions to certain shirts in the store is one of Dale’s fondest memories. Iconic jerseys such as the 1988 Netherlands and 1990 West Germany ones, often referred to by Bierton as the “OG” jerseys, are the most sought after. Their appeal can be attributed to not just their rarity or design, but also their significant historical meanings. The most costly jerseys in the stores, which sell for about $500, generally belong to this elite group.
Nevertheless, personal relevance often plays an equal, if not larger, part in determining what makes a jersey a classic or vintage. This aspect varies greatly across different generations.
The conviction of the brand’s recent financiers is that classic football shirts surpass a mere fashion trend; rather, each new generation will develop affection for a different assortment of favourites. This belief was the driving force that guided two alumnis with a fascination for vintage shirts into an environment wherein they manage pop-up shops on a foreign land, work in partnership with Adidas, and engage in virtual meetings with McElhenny.
“It’s quite remarkable,” asserted Bierton, standing amidst the chilled atmosphere of the basement encircled by shirts that he is reluctant to part with. “The only downside is it leaves me with less time to spend with the shirts.”
This article was originally published by the New York Times.
New York Times Company, 2024.