Ahto Külvet, an avid collector of Soviet-era classics, has transformed the former KGB headquarters, situated at the fringe of Tartu’s historic district, into a store called Psühhoteek. His fascinating collection, which once made his spouse describe it as overpowering, features an array of records from The Bee Gees to The Stooges, with cover art showcasing unique local elements, such as a hammer-and-sickle belt buckle depicted on a Bruce Springsteen LP and an abundance of Cyrillic writing.
Külvet encourages me to focus on a particularly intriguing record — a Soviet-era meditation track aimed to deter listeners from indulging in alcohol and tobacco. Although my understanding is limited, he assures me that the repetitive word, “vodka,” is being portrayed negatively. As the night progresses, I find its anti-alcohol message failing against the allure of superior Estonian vodka martinis.
Playing host to just 1.8 million inhabitants, the largely flat terrain of Estonia, carpeted extensively with lush forests, represents a land marked by dramatic contrasts and adventures. By the conclusion of my five-day sojourn, I will have experienced the relative warmth of the Baltic Sea, enjoyed dining on exquisite local cuisine including a black bread speciality, ventured into late-night saunas and explored forested domains populated by bears and wolves. Additionally, atop a medieval tower, I will have encountered a peculiar art display featuring ceramic skulls, and delved into philosophical night-long discussions on the intricate concept of “unknowing” with a jazz drummer at Philly Joe’s.
Despite my lack of proficiency in Estonian, navigation across the country is a breeze, due to the widespread proficiency of locals in English. The heritage of Estonia reveals itself layer by layer, rich with Nordic influence – a consequence of Finland’s proximity, enabling some to commute daily to Helsinki for work. Latvia lies to the south, but on the eastern flank, recent geopolitical events have strained the relationship with Russia. The past’s shadows may still linger in peoples’ memories, amidst halted progress in reconciling with the darker epochs of Estonian history following Russia’s incursion into Ukraine.
Tartu, this year’s European Cultural Capital, is indeed an exceptional city. Geographically, it is situated just 35 miles from Russia’s border. The decision to recognise Tartu as the Culture Capital was made in August 2019, before the invasion happened, two years later. The town’s theme, which is Arts of Survival, seems strikingly appropriate given recent events. The term “Survival” pertains to the necessary skills and learning we must possess to have a prosperous life. The programme lined up is both novel and hopeful. However, traces of Estonia’s Soviet past persist.
We visit the Estonian National Museum, designed over an erstwhile Soviet airstrip. The significantly built structure mirrors the contours of the old airstrip and was inaugurated in 2016. Besides the exceptional exhibitions showcasing surrealism and the evolution of nightlife, I am drawn towards a central display that illustrates Estonia’s journey beginning from the Stone Age. Venturing into the Soviet era exhibit, we are momentarily stopped by searchlights. Displays narrate tales of Stalin’s mass deportations, where entire families were sent off to Siberia. Concurrently, a significant number of Russians were moved in Estonia, to the degree that now over a fourth of the population speaks Russian, many with split loyalties.
In a series of exceptional instances, one truly stood out: In 1989, an estimated two million people from Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania formed an unbroken human chain to peacefully assert their independence. “I was a part of it,” reminisces Katrin Alekand, the guide at our museum. Alekand shares that as a child, she was taught that the west intended to destroy Tartu. She was only ten when the Baltic Way phenomenon occurred. “My parents brought me along; it’s unbelievable,” she shares with a sense of nostalgia. This was before technology took over with the internet and mobile phones. Buses were coordinated, and local radio disseminated necessary details. A sense of peace prevailed. As she narrates, her goosebumps are evident, and I am overwhelmed with emotion.
Tartu, scarred heavily by the tumult of the Second World War, has rebuilt itself with a blend of modern architecture and public parks interposed with surviving remnants of the old town. The city centre houses a distinctively designed art gallery that’s built on swampy terrain, just a stone’s throw away from the main square. Construction is in full swing in the city, presenting an aura of potentiality, hinting that there’s room for artists to explore. This sense gets intensified during an annual event called the Stencibility festival, where a decrepit edifice is vibrantly decorated by street artists globally.
The Widget Factory or Aparaaditehas, previously a secretive Soviet manufacturing facility, now functions as the city’s cultural hub. There’s a sarcastic local gist that the factory was originally used for fixing broken umbrellas, though the truth likely involves producing components for nuclear submersibles. The venue now hosts contemporary dance practices, operates an exceptional printing centre named TYPA and even a bookstore called Biblioteek. Kristel Kalda, an employee at the bookstore, was so inspired by her visit to Dublin’s Winding Stair, that she decided to open her own shop here. Tartu’s 2024 programme is intriguing and varied, paying homage to Estonia’s recent spurt of technological development while also celebrating classic forms of artistry.
The Culture Capital initiative aims to bridge cultures and populations across frontiers. This concept resonates with the planners of the Tallinn Fringe Festival, a platform that showcases an Irish Street Performance in their lineup this year. During my visit, I lunch with Jana Levitna, a Russian-equal rights comedian, co-founder of Pussy Jam and preparer of a Russian language stand-up roster for the Fringe event. Over a meal of slow-cooked elk, she expounds on how comedy, in its many forms, can counter prejudices and facilitate dialogue during periods fraught with political polarization and deep-rooted hurt. “But, you know what gets everyone laughing?” she questions. “Potato jokes.” A funny revelation indeed.
Dan Renwick, the founder of Fringe, guides me around various venues: from the spectacular Old Town Square (the Old Town, a lovely place that surprisingly withstood the devastation of wartime bombings), to a punk club located at the city’s boundary, and finally the Paavli Kultuurvabrik, an enchanting, expansive venue radiating a DIY ambiance, making one hope it remains untouched by gentrification. Renwick reveals, “It launched as a festival lasting three days; now it runs for 31 days, with English forming over 70% of the programme.”
Renwick’s own space, Heldeke!, once a brothel, stands out as one of the rare cabaret and comedy clubs boasting its own sauna and plunge pool. It hosts Sauna Social nights during the Fringe, offering performances by the likes of Kaisa Ling, a luminous burlesque performer known for her sharp wit, who also serves as a Fringe ambassador. Like Levitna, she regards the Fringe as a catalyst in establishing platforms for tackling challenging discussions, along with promoting enjoyment.
Fringe’s beauty lies in the opportunities it provides to delve deeper. We examine the Telliskivi Creative City region, a blossoming, privately-sanctioned cultural district that may be giving the founders of Temple Bar something to ponder. A vintage clothes shop will be holding sessions. Concluding the evening at Philly Joes, another charming Fringe venue. We sample wine accompanied by soothing jazz tunes, while near us a pair converse over chess and a constant flow of espresso martinis.
On my final day, we venture beyond the city, heading to Rummu Quarry, a previous Soviet prison site. A flood led to the quarry’s desertion, followed by the prison. Nowadays, it is a popular leisure spot for swimming, pedalo renting, snorkelling or diving amid the submerged buildings and forests. An unforgettable, surreal experience. While Southern Europe bears the brunt of multiple heatwaves, Estonia enjoys cool but variable weather. Remember to pack a waterproof and a few extra layers before visiting this extraordinary nation, which shares numerous similarities with our own. The Fringe and Tartu 2024 are the cherry atop a spectacular Estonian journey.
Tallinn Fringe Festival, a vibrant event with 165 scheduled programmes, is underway from August 18th to September 18th spread across 14 different locations. Tartu 2024 events continue up until the end of the year. Gemma Tipton received an invite from Visit Estonia and Tartu 2024 for these spectacles.
Travelling to and within Estonia
Daily Ryanair flights are accessible to reach Tallinn, with a duration of approximately three hours. A consistent coach service connects Tallinn to Tartu in roughly 2 and a half hours with fares starting at €10, available for pre-booking at tpilet.ee. On foot exploration is encouraged in Tartu whilst efficient tram services operate in Tallinn. The Tpilet app facilitates ticketing via a QR system.
Accommodation
Located in the midst of Tartu’s Old Town, Hotel Lydia offers a blend of luxury and comfort featuring commendable on-site dining and a therapeutic sauna. Rates for bed and breakfast begin at €103 per room. On the other hand, the stylishly avant-garde Hektor Container Hotel offers restful bedrooms in shipping containers, radiating a quirky yet cosy industrial appeal. Starting price per room is about €80.
Culinary Delights
Both Tallinn and Tartu are food and drink enthusiasts’ paradise. The Estonian staple of black bread is not to be missed along with a selection of seafood. Vegetarian gourmands will also find their needs catered to. Dine along the riverside or enjoy the wood-fired grill at TOKO in Tartu. Vilde and Vine serves a mixture of delicious local and global dishes in a charming old establishment with an inviting terrace. Michelin-recognised Hõlm offers an elevated dining experience with a wide cocktail selection, and for Italian cuisine, there’s Pompeii on Rüütli. For a swish cocktail experience, aim for the underground spot, Blood Milk Water.
Over in Tallinn, immerse yourself in the artistic atmosphere of F-hoone in Telliskivi, or enjoy a meal at the chic modernist Pegasus restaurant. Rataskaevu 16, a classic old town spot, serves traditional Estonian food along with handwritten notes accompanying your coffee. If you’re craving a top-tier dining experience, visit the Michelin-starred Horisont on the 30th floor of Swissôtel Tallinn where the tasting menu is bound to tantalise your tastebuds.