Although the city of Kilkenny is widely celebrated for its rich history, stunning castle, majestic cathedral dating back to the 13th century, quaint medieval lanes, and the tranquil flow of the River Nore that meanders beneath St John’s Bridge at the city’s heart, many aren’t aware of its quieter, more tranquil retreats. Kilkenny isn’t just a hub for culture and pubs but a culinary hotspot as well.
Take a tranquil stroll around the enclosed gardens of Butler House tucked away behind the Kilkenny Design Centre. Here, you can enjoy the peaceful environment as you tuck into a takeaway meal from the same centre or indulge in delightful afternoon tea. Journey through the Medieval Mile and discover Butter Slip, a historic marketplace where butter merchants peddled their wares in the 17th century. Irishtown’s Cakeface patisserie, run by Laura and Rory Gannon, is perfect for creative cakes and top-notch coffee.
Moreover, you can rent a bike from Kilkenny Cycle Tours or enjoy a two-hour walk, travelling 12km along the River Nore to reach Bennett’s Bridge. Here, you’ll find The Little Mill, a flour mill that has been run by the Mosse family for seven generations. Remarkably, they source majority of their wheat from three local farms situated less than 20km from the mill.
Adjacent to it, you’ll find Nicholas Mosse pottery and cafe, where visitors can watch the pottery production process. The first floor is a treasure trove of seemingly perfect pottery seconds. The salad bowls are, particularly, an attraction worthy of investment. The cafe offers comforting homemade breads, soups, quiches, and delightful tarts and crumbles.
Cafes throughout Kilkenny city boast a distinctive charm. The Book & Coffee Shop, a quaint spot on the peaceful stretch of William Street managed by Marian O’Neill and Stephen Buck, offers an incredible range of second-hand books along with delicious homemade cakes. Langton’s Hotel on John Street is home to the Tea Rooms, a whimsical spot reminiscent of Alice in Wonderland offering afternoon tea. For a hint of Romania, head to The House of Pretzels at the Market Cross Shopping Centre, where Stefan Cadar serves both sweet and savoury pretzels.
Bart Pawlukojć and Nicole Server-Pawlukojć are the dynamic duo behind the radical transformation of the cafe and bakery landscape in Kilkenny. Love blossomed between the pair whilst working at Noma in Copenhagen, leading to a six-year stay in Denmark. Nicole honed her culinary skills at Mielcke & Hurtigkarl as senior sous chef, whilst Bart mastered the art of butchery, charcuterie, and cheesemaking at Christian Puglisi’s esteemed restaurant Bæst, known for their sustainable practices.
In 2019, they launched Arán Bakery & Bistro on Barrack Street after much renovation. Despite the demanding work, it was operational in just a month, boasting a minimalist Scandinavian aesthetic and serving locally sourced heritage flour sourdough. High quality Kilkenny produce is featured in their all-day brunch menu, with a punchy hint of umami and acidity deriving from their jarred pickles and ferments on display atop the wooden counter. With more renovations underway, they anticipate reopening for evening meals later in June and recommend trying their bakery located across the street, established in 2021, which is famous for its sourdough loafs, pastries and coffee sold out to long queues. Their Sunday offer, featuring two sourdough loaves and four pastries for €20, is the ideal take-home treat after a luxurious weekend.
Another recommendation is Nóinín on John’s Bridge Street, a charming cafe run by former Fumbally chef Sinéad Moclair and her sister Maeve. They offer a limited lunch spread, with an extended menu for dinner, using premium local organic produce. Their walk-in service shifts to a reservation system for dinner, featuring diverse dishes from Mexican tacos to spicy lamb flatbreads to fresh Pollock in tempura batter. They also champion an impressive array of wines from smaller manufacturers who favour low intervention methods, resulting in a carefully curated selection.
With its emphasis on a rich selection of Italian wines, the Rinuccini, situated on the Parade adjacent to Kilkenny Castle, boasts an impressive cellar. Their extensive menu includes homemade pasta, flame-cooked fish and diverse meat dishes. Locals of Kilkenny have always cherished their much-loved bistro classics offered by Zuni. On the other hand, The Pembroke Hotel’s Statham’s promises a laid-back dining experience led by Ken Harker, ex-executive chef at Mount Juliet. Notable for his supreme quality produce, his specialty include spice bag chicken tacos, succulent pork nachos and mouthwatering steaks rather than saucy extravagance. Guests can also consider The Pembroke Hotel for their stay in Kilkenny featuring comfortable accommodations at reasonable rates.
However, if you are seeking affordable haute cuisine, the Arán Bakery adjacent Campagne, revered as the most budget-friendly Michelin star restaurant in Ireland, should be your port of call. For just €48, you can enjoy a handsome three-course lunch deal or savour their Sunday menu. Renowned for his simplicity and delectable approach towards food, Garrett Byrne gives a unique twist to French classics. His mastery in handling seafood is reflected in his grilled octopus accented with chickpeas and Middle Eastern spices, and roast hake with fregola and mussels swimming in a saffron sauce. One can relish in desserts like airy blackberry soufflé or elderberry jelly paired with cinnamon doughnuts providing a perfect finish to the meal.
For a more lavish experience, consider Mount Juliet. With its recent addition of a new cellar bar, the 1757, the Manor house is more glamorous than ever. John Kelly’s cuisine at Lady Helen, a celebrated one-star Michelin, has taken a new turn since my last visit. The menu boasts stellar dishes like artichoke custard with shimeji mushroom, gently cooked foie gras with dashi, brioche, turbot accompanied by tart gooseberries, and a deeply-flavoured pigeon confit leg and breast. It’s a restaurant worth exploring, with clear hopes of securing a second Michelin star in the future.
The lodgings at Hunters Yard, located within the very same estate, has seen significant progress and development. Although golfing is the prime focus in this area, the atmosphere remains chilled, avoiding any sort of overstated club environment. Its affiliated restaurant, The Hound, have truly commendable dishes. You’ll never encounter seafood from farms here, but rather delicious offerings such as Dublin Bay shrimp, cod in shrimp bisque, selected catch of the day and succulent grilled steaks.
A short way off from Mount Juliet, one can find Jerpoint Glass. At this creative studio, guests are warmly invited to be spectators to the intriguing process of glass blowing. If any of the vibrant glass pieces catch your eye, you will find a store just across the studio.
The quaint village of Thomastown is close at hand. It is home to Tābú Tapas, a charming restaurant owned by Spanish chef Rodrigo Gonzalez and his ecologist wife, Dr Amanda Greer. Their diverse menu boasts of many a dish with South American and international influences, such as the scrumptious pan de yuca, small cheese loafs made with tapioca flour. Three course meals are available too, and with the arrival of summer, there will be pizzas freshly fired from a wood oven in their beautifully landscaped garden.
Sunny days make for perfect market days. On Thursdays and Saturdays, The Parade is alive with the hustle and bustle of traders at the Kilkenny Farmers’ Market. The offerings range from fresh produce from Crainn Nua’s organic farm, cheese from The Blues Creamery, fresh breads and pastries from The Speltbakers to a selection of street food. Here you’ll find an amazing selection which includes pulled pork sandwich, sweet potato chips, fish tacos from The Bula Bus, tapas from Tābú Tapas and grilled steaks, burgers and chicken from Breagagh Valley Artisan Meats. There is also a food container kitchen set to open in July serving lobster rolls.
Make a point to visit the Mountain View market every Sunday. Hosted on a sprawling 120-acre property that overlooks the Kilkenny hills, the market is under the management of renowned chef Keith Boyle. His food truck ‘Loaded’ can be found here, serving up Ballymakenny baked potatoes or chips adorned with a variety of topping options inspired by Thai, Korean or American barbecue flavours. The market provides a vast selection of hot food stalls such as Socafro African and Caribbean cuisine, Hell’s BBQ, El Fuego Tacos, Breaking Buns and Farm Hog Roast – giving a wide array of choices for all food lovers.
Kilkenny offers a selection of Cairn-built three- and four-bedroom homes near the city, available from a starting price of €345,000. Known for its variety of popular pubs, each local resident in Kilkenny typically has their personal favourite. Tynan’s Bridge House Bar, a universal favourite, was established in the year 1703. The bar, easily identifiable by its unique blue exterior reflected onto the River Nore, boasts original fixtures, fittings, and mosaic tiles that are enhanced by the history behind them.
Just off High Street, down a slender alley, you can find The Hole in the Wall – a pub that contends (though it’s up for argument) to be the oldest in Ireland. The pub is situated in a portion of an Elizabethan house that traces its history back to 1582. The ancient oak beams, engaging storytelling and lively music add to its unique charm. Then there’s John Cleere’s in Irishtown, revered for its weekly traditional music gathering on Mondays. This pub notably houses a 100-seat live venue at the rear that features a range of music, theatre, and comedy performances.
Lastly, for those sunny days in Kilkenny, Sullivan’s Taproom boasts an excellent outdoor area. Though well-known, its line-up of home brewed craft beer and wood-fired oven pizza make it a perfect place for visitors to immerse themselves in the local ambiance.
This evocative description of Kilkenny was provided courtesy of Corinna Hardgrave, a guest of Fáilte Ireland.