The Danish city Copenhagen truly shone during its recent Fashion Week, reaping the benefits of the unanticipated sunny weather and further enhancing its standing as the hub of chic, ethically-conscious, and progressive fashion. Every participant in the show was obligated to conform to a stringent 18-point sustainability checklist, reinforcing the city’s commitment to eco-friendly practices and its ongoing assistance for emerging talent. Renowned brands such as Stine Goya and Ganni, which have garnered international recognition, have aided in putting Copenhagen on the international radar as a central fashion powerhouse.
Danish fashion exports have seen an impressive growth of 84 per cent over the last decade, illustrating the city’s rapid gain in popularity. A hospitable spirit and an increased sense of self-assuredness can be seen in the city’s design aesthetic, which, despite retaining some earthy pragmatism, has evolved to become more vibrant and whimsical.
There was a pronounced Irish influence during this Fashion Week, not only in terms of the players involved but also in the styles displayed. Isabelle Rose Celeste Davey, originally from Dublin, holds a key role in organising Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW). Formerly serving as the director of communications and digital, Davey has been recently appointed the chief operations officer of CPHFW. Her main task will be to firmly advocate their ambitious three-year sustainability initiative.
The winner of Zalando’s Visionary Award, along with its €50,000 prize, was Sinéad O’Dwyer, a London-based Irish designer hailing from Tullamore, Co Offaly. She unveiled her Summer 2025 collection entitled Everything Opens To Touch in a serene, natural setting – a perennial park on the harbourfront. The event was visually enhanced by two striking silicone sculptures in dayglo green and brown, created using 3D scans of O’Dwyer’s initial cast pieces.
The runway show was a celebration of femininity, pushing back against traditional catwalk norms regarding size and fit. Among the models was broadcaster Lucy Edwards, who walked alongside her guide dog, and O’Dwyer’s partner’s grandmother, who brought the collection to a close. The defining approach of O’Dwyer’s designs, ranging from encompassing shapes to miniature pieces catering to a variety of body types, was unmistakable right from the outset.
She was known for her ingeniously tailored shirts, predominantly in deep blue denim fabric, along with harnesses inspired by Shibari, micro culottes, as well as her trademark stretchy, brightly laced apparel. In partnership with Grounds Footwear, she refreshingly reinvented their bubble-soled shoes by integrating elements from Irish dancing shoes and thong sandals into the design. Notable guests at her show included her father, renowned sculptor and silversmith Kevin O’Dwyer, and her sister, the accomplished violist and musician, Aoise O’Dwyer.
Among other Irish fashion figures taking part in CPHFW were designers Aoife McNamara and Megan McGuigan, from Seeking Judy. They unveiled their collections and discussed their work at the Irish Embassy in a gathering led by Ambassador Elizabeth McCullough, dubbed “Fabric of the Future: Circularity in Irish Textile Design”. This event was orchestrated by podcast host, PJ Kirby. Both designers have a firm commitment to incorporating sustainability into their designs and overall work ethic.
A dialogue named “Woolgathering” took place the day after, featuring Chris Weiniger from Donegal Yarns, and Irish designer based in Copenhagen, Caoimhe Dowling. They’re collaborating on innovating tweed creations. Dowling, who holds a Master’s degree in sustainability from the Royal Academy in London is about to commence her PhD in Denmark. Having designed a small range of tweed coats and add-ons from dead stock denim, her upcoming project is a knitwear residency on the Faroe Islands, supported by Kunstfond, the Danish government-backed cultural foundation. Weiniger, a wool aficionado who sells yarn globally to weavers and knitters, adamantly upholds the principle of cementing ties between the industry and designers – a sentiment highlighted in their interaction.
Lastly, another Irish-born fashion designer and LSAD alumna currently based in Copenhagen is Naoise Madigan. She is associated with a sustainable shop named Quirky Lane, owned by Eimear O’Herlihy. The shop, with its unwavering dedication to vintage fashion, has become a pillar in the fashion world and has a reputation for championing emerging designers.
It’s undeniable that the overall feeling of cooperation in this amiable metropolis is palpable on every corner. Even Stine Goya, who has seen a staggering 16 years of success, credits her early triumphs to the spirit of communal encouragement and sustainable practices. The allure of Danish labels has spread all the way to Ireland, where many Irish purchasers had the fortuitous opportunity to attend an affair orchestrated by Bestseller, a top Danish fashion conglomerate. The guests were spoilt with a meal in an exclusive aeroplane hangar, accompanied by an extraordinary performance from the still-vigorous Diana Ross, who at 80 years old, delivered her well-loved songs.