At The Club Hotel, the cuisine is at the forefront of the guest experience, an anomaly in the hotel industry where food is often considered secondary. Its unique appeal can be attributed to the collaborative work between renowned chefs Derry Clarke and James Sheridan, who utilise high-quality Irish ingredients. As the hotel marks its first year in operation – and devises a special treat for its customers (more on this later) – the chefs reflect on the success they have achieved.
Clarke, who previously proved his culinary skills at the prestigious Michelin-starred restaurant, L’Ecrivain, believes the food at The Club Hotel is a departure from typical hotel dining. Working in a less overwhelming environment than bigger establishments, the two chefs have the opportunity to focus more on creating delectable dishes. This has been the approach since the hotel’s inception.
The past year has seen Clarke and Sheridan craft a versatile menu designed to cater to a wide range of preferences. Clarke acknowledges that the ‘significant partnership’ with Sheridan has been vital to their success.
The duo have a laid-back yet effective working relationship. Sheridan mainly takes charge of the cooking, while Clarke masterminds the innovative concepts and takes great pleasure in presenting the food poetically. Not one to shy away from any aspect of kitchen work, Clarke isn’t averse to getting fully immersed in the process, even several mundane tasks like scrubbing pots.
Clarke also appreciates the synergy he shares with Sheridan, praising him as an accomplished chef based on his splendid work at the well-known restaurant, Canteen. Their collaboration is a harmonious one, devoid of friction or conflicting ideas, attributed to their similar cooking styles and the effortless exchange of ideas between them.
Sheridan concurs that the collaboration has exceeded his expectations. Though he enjoys cooking and relishes concocting dishes using the freshest ingredients, the young chef admits that running a restaurant can divert attention away from cooking, his true passion.
The transition to a new location and re-entry into the culinary scene was prompted by an opportunity proffered by The Club. Sheridan was immediately enticed by the potentials of partnership with Derry, whose affability and charisma made him the perfect candidate for the operational helm. Not only did this collaboration have an appealing dynamic, but it also provided an effective magnet for other talented team members. Sheridan was clearly captivated by the vibrancy and meticulous preparation behind the set-up.
Despite being newly-established, the team is already well-assembled, with minimal turnover rates. Clarke has demonstrated genuine concern for aspiring chefs, creating a work environment devoid of any vitriolic outbursts. A year after its inauguration, earlier assumptions have materialised. The synergy in the kitchen is evidently having a transformative impact on the final product. Clarke revels in the variety of dishes he prepares, be it high-end gastronomic items, simple burgers and pizzas for children, or something to satiate the random desires of visitors.
The emphasis is on quality and locavorism when sourcing components. The principle of procuring the finest local beef and poultry is a kitchen mandate, and they maintain a close relationship with local farming establishments to secure fresh, ethically-sourced and seasonally variable fruits and vegetables. “The primary elements are of utmost importance. Depending on market availability, our menu fluctuates to accommodate specials; therefore, while venison has been a consistent component for a while, we’re currently introducing spring lamb. The goal is to maintain novelty and intrigue,” Clarke explains.
Sheridan concurs with this sentiment, highlighting the abundance of quality local produce available and the appropriateness of serving it with the least human tampering possible. He further emphasises the consistency of this approach throughout all mealtimes within the hotel. Clarke’s new culinary venture did not completely leave behind his former kitchen, having carried over a few favourites from L’Ecrivain, including their renowned brown bread. In addition, regular patrons from L’Ecrivain and Canteen have been spotted among the crowd, adding a touch of familiarity to the mix, as Sheridan noted.
Clarke reveals that the liberty of creating meals outside the confines and ensuing tension of running a Michelin-star eatery has been truly liberating. He recounts, “There were many things I desired to make that weren’t feasible there. I was unable to prepare chips, a beloved dish.” Now the eatery boasts a high quality steak and fries dish and an evolving menu. The comforting Sunday meal brings families together featuring favourites like pizza, burgers, fish and chips alongside gourmet cuisines. As Clarke reflects, this ensures both adults and children find something to their liking.
In-house afternoon tea has proven popular among patrons, all thanks to Executive Pastry Chef Elizabeth Darby. She serves up tempting sweets that include a heavenly chocolate fondant and a “Horse Choux”, paying homage to the venue’s locality in Thoroughbred County.
Clarke observes that the eatery not only attracts local frequenters but also the success of their associated hotel indicates patrons from all over the nation visiting to dine extravagantly. Couples seeking a romantic getaway can book a stay and unwind, indulging in fine dining and an exquisite breakfast the next morning. Many guests have reported feeling as though their stay extended beyond a single night.
A warm welcome with a glass of bubbly awaits each guest at the 50-room hotel, which opened in March 2023. Guests have access to plush beds, smart TVs, and high-end organic Voya toiletries in contemporary, state-of-the-art rooms. It comes as no surprise that it was selected as one of Ireland’s top 50 places to stay last year. Those wanting to savour their meal in the confines of their room can do so via complimentary room service while enjoying the sight of the paddocks from their private balconies. The hotel also boasts a sought-after event venue, The Barn, perfect for weddings, parties, or conferences, with a no-day-off booking schedule. Additionally, a futuristic thermal spa is set to debut soon. It will be nestled amidst the stunning rural landscape, promising a genuine nature-centric getaway, just half an hour from Dublin.
Sheridan, alongside Clarke, will persistently endeavour to improve the kitchen. He remarks, “We have many plans for the future and will continue prioritising our guests’ feedback.”
Clarke is of the same opinion, “The desire amongst people is for genuine food. Our motivation for cooking is not for ourselves but for our patrons – an element I believe is vital.”
In commemoration of its first anniversary, The Club Hotel situated in Goff’s is presenting a deal of 1,000 rooms at a rate of €200 each. This offer includes one night’s stay, a full breakfast and a three-course supper in their restaurant.