While one wouldn’t usually indulge in a cocktail during lunch, the lively atmosphere of a Saturday afternoon alongside a vibrant group of girls enjoying themselves greatly persuaded me to order a Pisco Sour (costing €11), from an eclectic range of choices. My fellow diner oped for the refreshed Estrella, priced at €6.
The charming village of Thomastown, just 18km away from Kilkenny, hosts an incredibly delightful dining experience in the form of Tābú Tapas, opened by chef Rodrigo Gonzalez and his ecologist partner, Dr Amanda Greer, a year ago. Previously, the location housed establishments like Bassett’s and Barrow’s Keep, but the interior ambiance has dramatically transformed under the couple’s ownership, with their inheritance being a deep fat fryer and a pair of stoves.
Investments in their kitchen tools and a broad collection of dishes were made from auctions, DoneDeal purchases and restaurant liquidations. The pair personally upholstered each of their chairs, purchased at a mere five pounds each, while also crafting their own tables. The decor narrates Rodriguez’s journey with artefacts like Cusco tapestries, Inca masks, Chancay burial dolls, a tin rooster hailing from Puerto Rico, a Māori hei-tiki, and numerous Catrinas – the emblem of Mexico’s Día de los Muertos, decorating the place, indicating what to look forward to on their menu.
Having been born in Madrid and brought up in Santiago, Gonzalez has been influenced in his flavour profiles by his work history – having worked for esteemed names such as Pia Leon of Central restaurant in Peru (holding the ranking for the world’s best restaurant), Martín Berasategui in the Basque territory, a period of three months in Noma’s fermentation laboratory, six years in New Zealand, and also previous employment at The Cliff House Hotel, Rinuccini and Zuni in Ireland.
Other notable establishments include The Mushroom Butcher, whose use of unique recipes and crème brûlée doughnuts have won them praise. Jean-Georges at The Leinster, a newcomer with an affluent clientele, and The Dunmore in Rathmines, having a laid back London atmosphere and widely liked dishes, also make a mark in the culinary landscape.
While enjoying the delightful crisps of parsnip, Jerusalem artichoke, and sweet potato that have been set down on our table, we opt for multiple smaller tapas dishes instead of the heftier main courses. The charred Padron peppers (£6), sprinkled with a seasoning of salt and cayenne pepper, make an exceptional pairing with our beer and mixed drink. Accompanied by a tangy red pepper dip, this dish does catch your taste buds off guard.
Described as petite and cheesy, the pan de yuca (£5) made with tapioca flour is equally appealing to our senses. Despite its heaviness, four of these buns are served, taste divine, and are complemented by the thin cheddar at their crust, enhancing the savoury flavour.
The squid rings coated in sorrel mayo (£8) are cut into stripes and are subsequently deep-fried to perfection. The pastry of three cheese and king prawn empanadas (£8.70) is perfectly golden harbours a powerful hint of garlic flavour in the prawns. A plate of Tābú-style patatas bravas (£6.70) is generously filled with five Hasselback Charlotte potatoes drenched in a hearty tomato sauce, making it a substantial part of the meal.
The Black Angus beef and pork meatballs (£8.50), surprisingly tender and buttery, are served in a dish usually used for snails, smothered in a spicy arrabiata sauce and a sprinkle of chives and Parmesan. Baby gem hearts (£5), dipped in puffed quinoa and served with vinaigrette from High Bank Orchard, introduce a novel way to present salad, though tossing the leaves in the dressing could be preferable. This proves to be the least remarkable among the sampled dishes.
In conclusion, delightful churros (£5) serve as the perfect sweet ending of our meal, offering a delightful, crackling exterior and a spongy midsection that can be dipped generously into a bowl-full of sweet and sticky dolce de leche.
Gonzalez, at Tābú Tapas, clearly knows the recipe for a successful neighbourhood eatery. The menu caters to diverse tastes, offering exotic options for those seeking something different, as well as traditional favourites like Guinness bangers and mash, venison shank, lamb rump, flame-grilled burgers and fish and chips, perfect for patrons who like the conventional three-course meal.
You’ll find an array of captivating new tapas choices in the summer menu, such as beef tataki, grilled asparagus, soft shell crab bao buns and ceviche. Plus, the partially outdoor Patio Tābú, seating up to 50 guests, propels this venue to one of the area’s top summer hotspots.
Landing a bill of €77.70 for a luncheon for two, including a cocktail and a beer, you’ll discover a delightful fusion of global tastes set in a vibrant ambience. The acoustic backdrop is a combination of Rainbow and pop music.
The venue proudly sources its ingredients from the Fisherman’s Market, Sysco, Riversfield Organic and the walled garden at Kilfane House.
Vegetarians are well catered for, with options including guacamole, baked sweet potato with black bean mole, cheese empanadas, tempeh sliders and harissa baked cauliflower steak.
Wheelchair users will be pleased to find the restaurant is fully accessible, including the facilities.