Whilst it’s a wonderful thought to possess the ingenious capabilities of a master chef, producing innovative meals each evening, it remains just a fantastical notion despite my four decades of culinary experience. As a common home cook, I suppose, it’s more typical to resort to a limited cache of familiar recipes particularly on days when culinary creativity fails to strike.
I’m certain we all have our go-to ingredients stored in our fridge or pantry for those occasions, one of mine being the smoked mackerel from Union Hall. Intriguingly, what might be ordinary for most of you is eclectic to me as I hardly ever encountered smoked mackerel back in the U.S., save for a few select specialist stores. This stellar item’s regular availability in my local Tesco and SuperValu is somewhat astonishing to me.
Union Hall’s smoked mackerel boasts a robust, meaty texture, subtly smoky with just the right level of salinity. It’s a regular component of my last-minute dinner salads. A favourite rendition of mine features smoked mackerel, Little Gem lettuces, and sections of grapefruit – the citrusy bite of the grapefruit serving as an ideal counterpoint to the fatty fish.
The preparation is incredibly simple. Remove the skin from the mackerel (a delight for my dog Izzy) and shred the fish into chunky pieces. Whip up a strong mustard vinaigrette. Segment the peeled grapefruit (fancifully named supremes) and add any residual juice to the vinaigrette. Lightly toss the lettuce in the dressing (avoiding saturation) and top with the mackerel and grapefruit segments. A rapid 15-minute job.
This smoked mackerel also melds wonderfully with a salad featuring new potatoes. Boil the potatoes until tender and season with salt and a splash of vinegar while still warm (this allows the seasoning to permeate before the potatoes cool and become waxy). Mix with the mustard vinaigrette and shredded mackerel, then sprinkle with finely cut chives or spring onions. An additional bit of horseradish, if at hand, adds a delightful touch.
Originating from the town from which it takes its name, the family-run business, Union Hall, has seen modest beginnings transform into a national supply chain. Each year, they provide an estimated 50-60 tonnes of smoked mackerel, available in plain or peppered versions, to the country’s stores.
In addition, a roughly similar quantity of smoked salmon is produced. The predominant method utilises cold-smoking, although they do manufacture a decent quantity of a ‘barbecued’ variant. The production method of the latter involves an initial cold-smoking stage, followed by a short burst of hot-smoking, which shifts the texture from smooth to firm and crumbly.
Union Hall also crafts smooth salmon and mackerel pâtés, simply combining the fish with mayonnaise, lemon juice, and black pepper. They have a selection of kippers available, a product that’s regaining popularity, with around 20 tonnes produced yearly.
The mackerel and herring for kippers are sourced from Donegal’s waters, whilst the salmon is farmed from Scotland and Norway. Upon the salmon fillets’ arrival, they are placed in a brine before being arranged on large racks and moved into the smokehouse. In this room-sized oven, they are smoked over a bed of oak chips at temperatures of 21-23 degrees for 12-14 hours. The ‘barbecued’ variant, which forms about 10% of the salmon supply, is then finished at 75 degrees for an extra 2½-3 hours. Mackerel undergoes a similar process in a smaller chamber to facilitate faster smoke circulation.
This large-scale operation starkly contrasts with the business’s humble beginnings on a family farm, initiated by John Nolan, a local fisherman married to Elmar O’Driscoll of a farming family from Union Hall. Sean explains how his parents firstly smoked their own fish, supplying some to local businesses as a retirement hobby without significant growth aspirations.
The business’s significant shift happened when they secured a contract with John Field of Field’s SuperValu in Skibbereen. This was the impetus which saw Sean join the operation in his 30s, following an initial career trawling the seas.
“It’s no walk in the park,” he remarks. “Each day bears its own unique challenges. Initially, our focus was predominantly on herring. A time came when the demand for kippers dwindled, but these days there’s a resurgence in their popularity.
“At present, mackerel holds the spotlight for us and its relevance only keeps escalating. All things considered, we’re managing fairly well.”