As the sun dips below the horizon at the White Stallion Ranch, I find myself languidly enjoying a margarita and contemplating my options. Should I elect for the adrenaline-filled Fast Ride towards Suicide Ridge, or the leisurely Slow Ride accompanied by beer and Cheetos? With the margaritas flowing smoothly and a communal sing-song session happening around the fire, I decide it’s never too late for a sensible choice. So, I help myself to an additional drink from the honour bar and register for the laid-back ride.
Currently, I am in the heart of Arizona, realising a longstanding desire to explore the rustic charm of dude ranches where I could get my hands dirty rounding up cattle, canter among the iconic saguaro cacti, or simply stroll along the trails on the hunt for a refreshing beer. During my stay at the White Stallion, I unearth a newfound fervour for team penning, taste the excitement of navigating the serpentine paths at a lope, and develop an affection for a horse named Rocky. Unsurprisingly, I find myself smitten exactly thrice during my journey, with Rocky, Randy, and Slack; a fact that amusingly mirrored a fling with a collegiate American football team.
The narratives of the American Wild West, perpetuated by cinema and television from City Slickers to Brokeback Mountain and spanning five seasons of Yellowstone, invoke a palpable sense of longing and adventure. They also breathe life into literary explorations of struggle, ethos, and consciousness. These experiences resonate in Sebastian Barry’s poignant 2017 novel Days Without End, as well as in Kevin Barry’s latest work of literature, The Heart in Winter. Witnessing the untouched vistas of the Sonoran Desert unfold from the saddle, everything starts falling into place. When I broach the subject of possible riding differences on his family ranch in the distant northern Nation lands with Jeremy, our Navajo wrangler, his response is inclined towards pragmatism — “Ranching cattle is ranching cattle.”
Is riding proficiency a prerequisite to enjoy a dude ranch holiday? Judging by a merry band of flight attendants on a short break, the answer is ‘No.’ Guests range from expert riders to novices, and for the latter, a few lessons suffice to relish a relaxing ride at a walking pace. A brief riding test can unlock access to the faster jaunts. The Western style of riding — characterized by extended stirrups and a slack rein — is not complex to acquire, though, much like the finest things in life, it may take a lifetime to truly perfect.
Coldplay had Croke Park rocking with memorable choruses that were tailor-made for the atmosphere of such a public outing. Andrea Gilligan was an attentive listener, but found herself unable to offer assistance to parents grappling with guilt as their children returned to school. After their run with Harvey’s Point hotel, a little piece of heaven was discovered in the southwest of France.
Team penning brought about its own challenges. Splitting into four distinct teams, I was assigned as the cutter, tasked with selecting three cattle from the herd and separating them. My team members were preventing their return to the herd. Though off to a shaky start, we were able to corral all three successfully. A knee nudge or a subtle lean was all that it took to have Rocky pivot on his haunches, an indication of his far superior knowledge in this area. The cows, I presumed, were just as savvy.
White Stallion wasn’t just horse nirvana, guests could also participate in archery, shooting, axe throwing, yoga and art. Upon arrival, my initial concern was raised by guests with bandages and slings, but it was soon revealed that the ebikes were the culprits behind the injuries, not the well-behaved horses.
The accommodation at White Stallion comprised of small “casitas” spread across a plain, each with a personal stoop area and fire. My June visit made the idea of lighting a fire seem ludicrous, but I imagined its charm in the autumn. Opting for a swim instead, I joined the other guests later for sundowners and snacks. The cuuisine was an appealing mix of buffet and barbecue.
A smaller setup, the Tombstone Monument Ranch, was where I met Randy, a noteworthy chestnut horse adept at navigating steep slopes. We rode out to the skeleton of an erstwhile railway, once used for transporting silver and a bit of gold from the mines. Now, our horses led us up a steep bank along the line, only to descend again when the track gave way to rocks adorned with Native American petroglyphs etched into the crimson stone.
Kyler, the lead rider and wrangler, points out the stakes marking mining claims all around us. Upon discovery of silver, miners would immediately make their claim and race to get it registered. The threat of theft by someone ready to snatch away your claim was ever-present. “Here, lives were lost over much less,” Kyler tells me.
Fresh from my visit to Tombstone’s numerous gift shops and saloons, I’ve opted to forgo their daily OK Corral replay. Instead, my curiosity takes me to Birdcage Theatre, famous for an eight-year-long poker game. But now it’s time to saddle up and head back to the ranch. The Tombstone Monument guest accommodations are a charming replica of a Western movie set. Guests can choose from rooms in the Mining Office, the old Post Office or the Blacksmith’s. I step in from the dusty parking lot, half-expecting to hear a cowboy’s drawl, cautioning me: “We don’t take kindly to strangers around here.”
Quite the contrary, however. The welcoming Saloon patrons include Cliff, the friendly bartender, who serves a mean drink and refreshingly cold beer. There is also a much-welcomed pool area. Had I arrived a week prior, I could have taken part in a cattle drive, aiding in gathering the livestock from the range, sorting and penning. The general attire here is ‘Horse Casual’; jeans and boots suffice without needing a hard hat. Despite some safety considerations, a wide-brimmed hat with a “stampede string” beneath your chin provides ample shade without the risk of being lost when you’re galloping.
I find myself on my third ranch in Wickenburg at Rancho de los Caballeros. Famed for its useful combination of equine activities and golf, this spot is perfect if you, or a companion, favour a round of golf over riding. Wickenburg is well-known worldwide for its cattle roping competitions. After an instructional session where I practice the necessary wrist action on a plastic model cow, I manage to lasso it three times in a row. Quite chuffed with myself, I can’t help but smile.
Dick Fredrickson, a local naturalist, guides you through the Sonoran desert, enlightening you about a variety of plants, some with healing properties, others deadly. He shares that female rattlesnakes are currently laying down pheromones for their potential mates, though sadly, on this occasion, I witness neither the dangerous dames nor their serpentine suitors. Instead, I befriend an affable horse named Slack, who carries me on an amble through the surprisingly lush desert, filled with saguaro cacti and a hazy view of Vulture Peak in the distance – a sight that “breathtaking” doesn’t begin to describe.
After a soothing massage, I watch as the setting sun paints the mountains shades of pink and purple. As the temperature drops, horses neigh peacefully, reminding me of the landscape’s influence on local folklore. Horses have shared the human journey for over five millennia, and a holiday on horseback allows for a perfect fusion of enjoyment and cultural immersion, making it an experience impossible to forget.
This trip was courtesy of the Arizona Office of Tourism and Visit Tucson.
Getting Here:
Several airlines, including Aer Lingus and British Airways, offer flights to Tucson and Phoenix respectively, with connections in Los Angeles, Chicago, or London. On-the-ground transportation can be arranged by individual ranches, but depending on your plans, car hire might be more suited, enabling easy explorations of downtown Tucson, its inviting boutiques and restaurants, and the must-visit Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, with its exciting assortment of flora, fauna and a hummingbird sanctuary. After a night or two in Tucson, ideally, spend three to four nights each at various dude ranches.
For an all-round equestrian experience and more, consider White Stallion Ranch. Prices from €370 per room per night include meals and riding.
Good western adventures can be found at Tombstone Monument Ranch for around €154 per night on a B&B basis, or try a package that includes all activities and meals for about €220 per person, with single rates available.
Rancho de los Caballeros caters to guests with a variety of interests, at €195 per person sharing B&B, or with packages that offer all meals and one daily activity from about €245 per person sharing.
Equestrian Holidays in Ireland
Co Monaghan
Nestled within a thousand acres of the finest land in Co Monaghan, Castle Leslie epitomises equestrian heaven. Facilities include bridleways, cross-country, an all-weather mile-long gallop, dressage, and an indoor arena for show jumps. It offers packages to suit all levels from absolute beginners to experts, and a three-night package including daily horse rides of three hours and meals, B&B, priced at €800 per night for two. You can also opt for a tailored trip. Contact at reservations@castleleslie.com.
Co Kerry
At Killarney’s Europe and Dunloe Hotels, Austrian Haflingers serve as the perfect entertaining companions for horse-crazy children and their families. Rides on these stunning golden ponies, which are offered complimentary by both hotels, are guided and last 10-15 minutes – an experience that could be unforgettable or potentially lead to years of horse-induced persuasion. Room rates at Europe start from €395 and Dunloe from €295. For those desiring more horse time, Killarney Riding Stables offers trail rides throughout the year, including tours through the National Park and the Killarney Reeks with B&B accommodation during April-October. Three nights start from €1,095.
More Hotels with Equine Facilities
In Kilkenny, Mount Juliet Estate, featuring a cutting-edge equestrian centre, spans 500 acres for horseback riding. One-hour group trail rides available from €125 for adults and €95 for kids. Room rates begin from €335. A perfect spot for beginners is Sheen Falls Lodge in Kenmare, offering a one-hour ride alongside Kenmare Bay. It also arranges horse carriage rides. Riding fees are €45 for under 12s and €60 for adults, with room tariffs beginning from €420. Ashford Castle provides trail riding, coaching lessons and pony rides from €120 for kids and €150 for adults. Winter rates start from €475 per person sharing on a B&B basis.
Welcome to The Realm of Thoroughbreds!
Discover detailed information about tailor-made visits to racing stables throughout the regions of Kildare and Tipperary. This includes horse riding experiences and the renowned Fethard Horse Country Experience, situated within Thoroughbred Country. There, you’ll also find comprehensive details about lodging options such as The Horse & Jockey, Goffs Club Hotel and the magnificent Cashel Palace. The latter posses an exclusive horse concierge service capable of scheduling a private Racing Royalty tour featuring prestigious stops such as Ballydoyle and Coolmore. This tour includes lunch and is priced at a premium of €1,250.
The Beara Bridle Path
While equestrian paths remain inadequate in Ireland, the Beara Bridle Way in West Cork stands out. Proclaimed as the first ever horse trail in Ireland, it beautifully connects the Castletownbere, Allihies and Urhan valleys. For directions, lodging details and even information on where to station your horse overnight, hop on to bearabridleway.com.
Equestrian Trails around the World
Mongolia
It’s a common belief that modern horses originated in Mongolia, making it a uniquely apt place to explore on horseback. YellowWood Adventures offers a fascinating nine-day journey, residing with local nomadic tribes in their traditional gers and riding sturdy horses, or Bactrian camels through the Gobi Desert when needed. The trip operates from May to September and costs start at £1,999, excluding airfare.
Wales
Nearer to home, Trans Wales provides delightful farm-based riding holidays on stout Welsh Cobs. Choose from one-day pub rides, two-day riding weekends in the Brecon Beacons or a thrilling five-day trek across the Black Mountains, all ending with a thrilling gallop on the beach. Prices start at £135 for the pub ride, reaching £2,250 for the full excursion. Riding weekends are available from March to October.
Spain
Responsible Travel offers a customizable eight-day horse-oriented holiday in the volcanic landscapes near Girona. The package available to wheelchair users includes riding lessons, trekking, as well as accommodations in an eco hotel. Children are welcome and there’s a docile pony specifically for under-fives. Pricing begins at €795, without flights included.
South Africa.
Embark on a journey with the anti-poaching squad in Ant’s Nest located in the Waterberg region of South Africa, a habitat for one of the world’s three biggest remaining rhino groups. Choose from adventurous night-time rides for seasoned riders, or opt for a more leisurely experience if you’re a beginner. Enjoy a five-night stay starting from £1,500. Visit africanhorsesafarisfoundation.org for more details.