This tale begins with my birth into a long-standing tradition. My father laid the foundation in the early 1950s when he commenced selling oysters. His objective was a simple one – to provide for his family without having to move to England. Our cherished local watering hole, Paddy Burke’s found in Clarinbridge, Galway, was his first consumer. The bond has stayed strong for seven decades. As soon as I had developed basic math skills and could actively participate, I was also inducted into the family business, responsible for sorting different categories of oysters.
I harboured vivid recalls of consuming infant oysters, freshly separated from their shells- a sort of initiation into the trade. The noises, the fragrances, the taste, all etched in my memory. I always pictured myself stepping into my father’s shoes once my formal education ended. Consequently, I enrolled myself for an aquaculture program in Letterkenny to gain industry knowledge.
The quintessential oyster, for me, is ensconced within a deep shell, housing a firm, flavourful sea-meat, with just the right hint of salinity and a pleasant aftertaste. Of course, to assess the veracity of these attributes, one must consume the oyster. However, its physical appearance, the shell’s shape, and weight roughly indicate quality. Lightweight oysters likely host lighter meat.
Cracking open an oyster should result in a cheerful view- the wet gleam indicating freshness, the movement affirming life. It’s an enticing sight. I have an unmatched enthusiasm for flat native wild oysters, which breed naturally during summers. We adhere to the practice of harvesting them only in months bearing the letter ‘r’ and let them mature over a span of five to six years.
Farmed oysters originate from hatcheries. Nearly 2000 infant oysters are placed inside a mesh sack that is suspended from a structure on the beach, where they mature. Their population is split every few months, eventually yielding around 150 oysters per bag over a duration of three years. Their desired teardrop shape is achieved through persistent chipping of the edges, involving physical jostling.
In their early days, the oysters spend ample time immersed in water. We transfer them progressively upwards onto the shore to ensure they become accustomed to conditions outside of water; doing so helps in mitigating panic when they are ready to be transported. Akin to human nature, the well-being of oysters is paramount – an oyster that experiences little to no stress is of superior quality and has a longer lifespan.
A fascinating attribute of oysters is their ability to consume copious amounts of phytoplankton, filtering up to 11 litres of water each hour, contributing nothing in return. Their brilliance lies in their role as environmental guardians, purifying the water in the process. Working with such prodigious organisms is indeed a pleasure. Every oyster farm can boast its superlative oysters, but the differentiation lies in the concept of ‘merroir’ – each bay exudes a unique flavour owing to the indigenous phytoplankton.
Concerning environmental changes are showing its impact, signalled by a marine heatwave we encountered in June of the previous year, which led to a surge in water temperature by five or six degrees above the standard. This drastic change imposed a significant strain on the younger inhabitants, leading to immense loss of stock for many farmers. From Galway Bay to Scotland, the distress was prevalent and daunting. The magnitude of these events underscores our vulnerability and our incapacity to counter these shifts. If these unfavourable conditions recur annually, it would pose a significant challenge.
Another factor affecting the oysters is drainage resulting in the influx of fresh water; the flat native oyster shows heightened sensitivity to this. The conventional approach of driving water away from the land and into the bay could lead to the fresh water overwhelming the native oysters, practically drowning them.
Our largest clientele is constituted by Ireland. Our activities peak during the Oyster Festival held in Galway in September. We’ve noticed an influx of a younger population who, enriched by their travel experiences, have developed an adventurous palate, warming up to the idea of oyster bars and having them at festivals. This trend towards environmentally friendly food is evident among the Irish folks.
Oysters can sometimes be daunting for people. Our suggestion is to first take a moment to inhale the oyster’s scent, transporting oneself to the seaside. Following this, a small taste of the brine can help ready the palate, akin to cautiously dipping your feet into a pool of water. Subsequently, one should let the oyster slide smoothly into their mouth, allowing it to swish around before taking a bite. This provides a taste snapshot of the ocean in a single mouthful.
On the subject of whether oysters serve as aphrodisiacs, it is subjective. As one indulges in oysters while basking in the joy of life, possibly alongside a glass of wine, the possibilities are infinite.
Our oysters have found takers far and wide, from Whistler in Canada to Singapore, with around 14 countries in-between. It’s a surreal experience watching someone indulge in a Kelly’s oyster atop the Burj Khalifa, Bentley’s in London, or even at Harrods, leaving one to wonder, “How did we reach this point?”
My father took great pride in the growth we’ve achieved. Presently, both my brother Mícheál and I, along with our wives and now Mícheál’s son Michael, are fully involved. It’s gratifying to see our oysters being respected. A thought of all the effort put into raising them swells up a sense of immense pride.
As discussed with Joanne Hunt.