Despite the cool, wet climate not typically associated with wine production, Ireland has been creating its own unique version of the libation for over half a century. Although information can be sporadic, it is known that over a dozen vineyards now operate across the country, with locales including Cork, Waterford, Dublin, and Mayo. These vineyards often opt for hardier hybrid grape varieties, crossed with the wine grape (vitis vinifera), in order to combat the harsh climatic conditions. Two such grape types include the red Ronda and the white Solaris grape.
Simultaneously, there’s a surging popularity of English wines, particularly sparkling varieties, and Wales houses nearly 30 vineyards. Projected increases in temperature due to climate change suggest a likely boom in Irish wine output in future decades.
However, Irish wines will never be considered a cheap commodity. The combination of small-scale production, limited yields, and wines being low in alcohol yet high in acidity, resulting from Ireland’s cool climate, ensures their cost will remain above average.
Perhaps the first commercial vine growers in Ireland were Michael O’Callaghan from Longueville House in Mallow and his neighbour Dr Billy Christopher. Initiated in the early 1970s, their original objective was brandy production, but they transitioned into wine-making. Since this endeavor proved challenging, their focus altered, and now Michael’s son, William O’Callaghan, produces commendable cider and apple brandy.
Currently, the largest Irish vineyard is likely in Wexford and is managed by The Old Roots, who cultivate various grape types. Other notable Irish wine producers include Thomas Walk in Kinsale, west Cork, who, oddly, does not sell his wine; David Llewellyn from Lusk, Dublin, who also produces myriad beverages, vinegars, and apples; and organic wine producer David Dennison from Viking Drinks in Waterford, who gives guided tours of his establishment. Furthermore, Philip Little, assisted by winemaker Séan Kerin, crafts Triskelion wines in south Kilkenny. Most of these vineyards have websites where additional information can be found.
Finally, in Newtownmountkennedy, County Wicklow, Pamela Walsh and Brett Stephenson create intriguing wines from a variety of Irish fruits. To understand more about their wine production, it is advisable to reserve a tour at wicklowwaywines.ie.