Have you ever been curious about where culinary authors prefer to dine when they’re not working? The likes of Corinna Hardgrave, Mark Moriarty, Russ Parsons, Marie-Claire Digby, Lilly Higgins, John Wilson and Joanne Cronin reveal their favourite spots.
CORINNA HARDGRAVE
Informal meal with a friend
Fish Shop, situated on 76 Benburb Street in Dublin 7, is one of Corinna’s favourite dining spots in Ireland to the surprise of many. The appeal extends beyond simple fish and chips. A meal here starts with gilda, followed by calamari and squid on toast and concludes with exceptionally fresh fish, served hot in a light golden batter. The extensive wine list offers sherry by the glass, Jura chardonnay or you could opt for extravagant grower Champagne. Here, seating is exclusively at high stools running along the countertop. This snug venue, therefore, is best enjoyed with one or two friends at most.
Delightful midday meal
Assassination Custard, located at 19A Kevin Street Lower, Dublin 8, is highly recommended by Corinna for a superb lunch. Gwen McGrath and Ken Doherty curate their menu depending on the season’s yield from McNally’s organic farm. Their ability to create astounding dishes that are simple yet utterly mouthwatering is truly impressive. Simply securing a spot in this small ten-seater feels like a secret escape, like playfully bunking off school whilst the world around manages the everyday dull routine. It is advisable to arrive before noon and to possibly skip Fridays.
Dining for a special event
Allta, located at 1 Three Locks Square in Dublin, is Corinna’s top pick for a memorable occasion. She’s always admired Niall Davidson’s culinary prowess, his skill in blending flavours and his meticulous cooking of meat and fish over fire. Now that he boasts a gleaming new establishment at the docks, it stands as a fabulous destination for a special night out. Pasta has always featured as a highlight on the menu, especially the barbecued rabbit with ricotta cavatelli – a must-try, should it be available. The regularly rotating menu will invariably include a number of dishes cooked over the specially crafted Rhys Allen grill, with choices including squid skewers, suckling pig, mature ex-dairy cow beef and turbot.
A gourmet weekend getaway
Homestead Cottage, in Luogh North, Doolin, County Clare, is the enchanting Michelin-starred dining venue situated in a 200-year old cosy cabin run by Robbie and Sophie McCauley. The venue radiates an aura of sophistication without being too imposing, creating a captivating environment. It offers a soothing ambience with its high ceilings, flagstone floors and a charming room. The gastronomic delights, curated from locally sourced ingredients like Burren beef and vegetables harvested from the owner’s small farmland, are both delectable and sensitively prepared. It offers a unique, all-around delightful experience.
Solas, Unit 1, Strand Street in Dingle, makes for the perfect spot to enjoy tapas in a newly honoured tapas eatery run by Nicky and Ann. It is a comforting place to unwind during midweek. The menu brims with traditional Spanish delicacies which make use of excellent local produce. The various price points allow you to enjoy flavoursome meals without stretching your budget.
For family dining, Oliveto, located at 9-12 Haddington Terrace, Dún Laoghaire, County Dublin, has the right balance of charm and environs. It possesses an endearing ambience, stellar views of Dún Laoghaire pier, and an ever-bustling atmosphere. The menu takes inspiration from Italian cuisine, offering a variety of dishes like wood-fired pizzas, classic pasta, and a selection of small plates, with no unnecessary frills. Its accommodating nature is welcoming for all ages and it promises to be a place for either a quick meal or an extended relaxing afternoon.
For a more unique dining experience, Dede in Baltimore, County Cork makes for an exceptional choice.
Original rewritten text: Ahmet Dede’s culinary style is unique, and the journey to his Baltimore-based restaurant feels akin to travelling to the furthest corners of the globe – a journey I’d readily undertake to relish the finest Irish ingredients skilfully combined with distinctive Turkish spices and creativity. While the ambiance of the dining area is more reminiscient of a casual house gathering than a restaurant boasting two Michelin stars, it remains a hotspot for innovative worldwide cuisine, and rates highly with my partner, who is notorious for her hard-to-please palate.
Our pick for Friday takeaways is Spice Cottage situated at 1, O’Rourke Park, Sallynoggin, Co Dublin. Despite moving locations, the fact that Spice Cottage now sits just beyond our delivery area does little to deter us from indulging in what we consider to be the finest Indian takeaway in terms of both cost-effectiveness and quality. Sporting an array of meal packages that cater to varied tastes, it’s hard to resist a tantalising dish like the lamb achari.
The Cove Bar on Dunmore Road, Waterford serves as an ideal choice to indulge in comfort food midweek, especially following a particularly challenging day. Sometimes when the exhaustion gets the better of you and even maintaining a conversation seems taxing, retreating to the comforting environs of a pub can do wonders. My personal favourite from their menu is the bacon ribs, perfectly complemented by mashed potatoes, braised cabbage and a parsley sauce, providing for an ideal pub dinner experience.
For a delightful family outing, the Stables Cafe located at Mount Congreve in Kilmeaden, Co Waterford, provides the perfect backdrop. Bringing our grandchildren for lunch followed by a leisurely stroll in the garden serves as the optimum way to spend an afternoon. The garden, post a prolonged period of revitalisation, offers a small playground for the children to enjoy. Operated under the management of the Cliff House group now, the restaurant dishes out a delectable spread of cafeteria-style food. The brown bread-based smoked salmon and varying assortments of salad are standouts on their menu. Finally, a walk amidst the flora and a pot of tea coupled with some freshly-baked treats is an experience not to miss.
For those celebrating an extraordinary occasion, Everett’s on 22 High Street, Waterford makes for the ideal destination.
Waterford boasts an array of fantastic dining spots such as Union, Emiliano’s, Cafe Momo and Beach House in Tramore. However, for family functions, our destination of choice is invariably Everett’s. Peter Everett showcases Irish produce with elegance in his French-inspired cuisine, all accomplished at a surprisingly affordable rate of €52 for a three-course meal.
On weekdays, if you’re in the mood for a flavourful dish and an intriguing glass of wine, Cellar 22, located on 22 St Stephen’s Green in Dublin 2, is a favourite spot in Dublin city centre. Route in for a lively ambiance, scrumptious food, fair prices and an excellent music selection. Their mammoth charcuterie board and Jerusalem artichoke agnolotti are definitely recommended, culminated with a one-of-a-kind affogato.
When it comes to family get-togethers, The Purty Kitchen on 4 Old Dunleary Road at the fringe of Dún Laoghaire is a time-honoured choice. They serve consistently good food, with their Galway Bay moules-frites and Wicklow Wolf ale-battered haddock fillets being a hit amongst patrons. Their calamari, marinated in milk for tenderness, always impresses with its light crispy coating.
For special events, Chapter One at 19 Parnell Square North, Dublin 1 and Big Mike’s, located in Rock Hill, Blackrock, Co Dublin are always reliable options.
Both an 18th and a 60th birthday were fantastically observed at Chapter One, though securing a reservation there can be rather challenging. The exclusivity, coupled with the impeccable service and extraordinary culinary offerings, contribute to its unique appeal. In situations where a booking wasn’t possible, we have indulged enormously on seafood at both Michael’s in Mount Merrion and subsequently at Big Mike’s in Blackrock, complemented by a superb St Aubin.
For causal family meals frequented by my children, Wabisabi, located on Cork’s Oliver Plunkett Street, is an absolute favourite. The menu boasts liked dishes such as age-gyoza, squid karaage, spicy tuna roll and kimchi soup. The staff are incredibly hospitable and the establishment offers a continual supply of green tea at no cost. The rainbow crepe cake and cloud cake are dessert options that are both exciting and appetising, concluding an enjoyable and reasonably priced meal.
When looking for a wholesome takeaway, My Goodness at the English Market in Cork, is our go-to choice, offering an array of healthful treats like fermented goods, sprouted beans and award-winning kefir and kombucha, made using rainwater. The menu includes an assortment of raw cakes, raw wraps, broths and a variety of Mexican-inspired probiotic-rich dishes such are “notchos”, tostada, and “rawchos”. My children are particularly fond of their raw flax crackers. The food is delicious and leaves you feeling revitalised postmeal. They follow a zero-waste approach and their allied nonprofit, Cork Urban Soil Project, transforms any waste into compost for cultivating more ingredients, hence a circular system.
Celebrating any special occasion, we prefer Terre in Castlemartyr, County Cork.
Vincent Crepel’s Terre, an east Cork-based restaurant with two Michelin stars, offers a bit of paradise on earth. The staff are exceptional, creating a tranquil ambience that’s further underscored by the choice of music. A unique blend of bespoke Modet furniture from Kinsale, Fermoyle pottery, handcrafted knives from Broc in Armagh, and carved wooden spoons from Hewn in Westport adorn the restaurant. The menu is a celebration of Irish produce with delightful and intricate courses, where possible. Their dark corridor lined with ferment shelves leading to the kitchen is a personal favourite. Everything about Terre feels like a distinctive, mesmerising experience that you’ll want to relive even before the brandy trolley arrives in the lounge.
For a weekend dinner, consider The Glass Curtain in Unit A, Thompson House on McCurtain Street in Cork. Catering to lovers of seasonal Irish produce, this locale offers a casual environment, excellent staff, and an open-fire kitchen specialising in seafood and meat grilling. The bread and butter alone are worth the visit. The menu is diverse, with outstanding and ingenious vegetarian options.
For a casual lunch with friends, Izz Cafe at 14 George’s Street in Cork is ideal. Owned by Izz and Eman Alkarajeh, this Palestinian-themed cafe prepares everything in-house, from the hummus to the velvety labneh. The traditional Palestinian coffee delicately infused with cardamom is a must-try. The cafe has expanded recently to create additional space. Ingenious use of QR codes by Izz allows customers to learn some history while waiting for their food. The cafe also sells unique products, such as za’atar, olive oil and renowned Nablus soap.
If you’re looking for a local restaurant, Grapevine on 26 Castle Street in Dalkey, Co Dublin, is perfect. It continues to function as a wine shop but is now focusing more on food, thanks to a new chef. The greatly improved menu and reasonably priced wine list make it an excellent spot for a relaxed dinner with friends or family.
For dining while on holiday, McGrory’s in Culdaff, Donegal, offers a fantastic culinary experience.
For many years, I’ve loved visiting Culdaff, situated on the Inishowen peninsula. Starting off with a dip at the spectacular beach and then delighting in fish and chips along with craft beer or wine at McGrory’s signifies the commencement of my holiday.
A quick nibble and glass of wine is best enjoyed at Ely Wine Bar, 22 Ely Place in Dublin, the original wine bar in town. Its extensive by-the-glass-wine catalogue is rated highly and compliments their delightful snacks.
When it comes to indulgence, Dax, located at 23 Pembroke Street Upper in Dublin 2, is the place to be. Offering a wonderful blend of French/Irish cuisine, Chef Graham Neville elevates the dining experience. The front of house managed by Olivier Meisonnave is relaxed yet always maintains professionalism. Their impressive wine list is worth mentioning too.
Family festivities are often held at Chakra in Meridian Point Centre, Greystones, Wicklow. Ever since it opened its doors 25 years ago, it has become a preferred destination for celebrating birthdays, graduations and other milestones. It also offers excellent value for a calm midweek early bird. Excellent service, exceptional food, particularly the savoury and spicy Wicklow lamb, have made Chakra a family favourite over the years.
Midlands favourite, Thyme, located at Custume Place, Athlone, Co Westmeath, continues to impress under the stewardship of John and Tara Coffey. Providing the finest regional produce, Thyme has become a personal favourite for many Irish Chefs across the country. Variation in menu happens regularly, though John’s special crispy egg starter remains a constant delight.
If conversing in Irish is enjoyable to you, then Pota Cafe in Tulla, Riverstown, Co Galway, is your destination.
Diarmuid Ó’Mathúna’s beautiful café, located near the TG4 studios, is the ideal location for a casual midday meal as you explore the Wild Atlantic Way. The café offers the unique opportunity to place your orders in the Irish language. The chowder, made using fish from Ros a Mhíl, is splendid, much like the tóstaí (toasted sandwiches).
For Brunch:
Arán on Barrack Street in Kilkenny or Léas at the Glucksman, in the University College Cork serves excellent brunch. Arán is one of Ireland’s finest bakeries and is also a Blas na hÉireann award winner. Its ambience is warm and welcoming, plus some of their dishes offer a surprising Filipino twist. At the Glucksman gallery’s contemporary café, you’ll find Léas. Sourcing from suppliers across Cork, it also features a charming outdoor terrace that promises to be a gem in the summer months.
Dinner for the Weekend:
Situated in The Coombe, Dublin 8, Spitalfields has evolved from a traditional pub to an internationally acclaimed Irish restaurant while maintaining its local appeal. At times, the menu has a nostalgic slant, featuring dishes like devilled eggs or a reimagined Super Split ice cream. Make sure to try their eye-catching cock-a-leekie pie, identifiable by its golden cris-crossed pastry top.