Television gourmands can often be quite overwhelming. Some like to place the limelight on themselves by hurling about fries and loudly voicing their thoughts – reminiscent of a young Gordon Ramsay. Others market an unrealistic way of life, as illustrated by Nigella Lawson and those mimicking her style. Fortunately, there’s Neven Maguire. This Co Cavan-based chef brings a breath of fresh air to food television with his effortless style, ensuring that his appearances don’t revolve around him entirely.
Neven’s Coastal Food Trails, Maguire’s latest series on RTÉ One, preserves his cool and unruffled approach. The central theme is the absence of a complex plot. With each episode, Maguire tours a seaside village, pays a visit to local dining spots, and enjoys a meal and a chat. That’s all there is to it – a simplistic pleasure amidst an era of complex plotlines.
The show may serve up mouth-watering steaks, but the pressure is virtually nonexistent – a factor which makes the show even more valuable. In the first episode, Maguire is in Greystones, where we see him at La Crêperie Pierre Grise, supervised by chef Julien Lefebvre, watching him as he crafts French crêpes and galettes with a mix of French and Irish ingredients.
In the kitchen, Lefebvre performs with gusto. Where other showier TV chefs may swoop in and hog the limelight, Maguire remains content to stand by and admire Lefebvre’s culinary prowess, not least his topping of a sunny-side up egg onto the crêpes. All Maguire can do is express his astonishment with comments like, “The cheese melting into the potato – that’s really tasty.”
Moving on, we arrive at number 84 Woodfire, which is an ingenious use of a double-decker bus transformed into a pizzeria. Our culinary journey proceeds to the Chakra Indian restaurant, where our adaptable host savours a tandoori chicken breast. Maguire, subsequently, pays a visit to Kilmullen Farm, located in Newcastle and interacts with lamb admirers, Margaret Hoctor and Eamon Bourke. The tour concludes at Marlfield House Hotel, situated in Gorey, Co Wexford, with a delightful presentation of seared Irish king scallops paired with cauliflower truffle.
Maguire doesn’t profess any grand assertions concerning his fresh endeavour. He doesn’t intend to flaunt a luxurious lifestyle or exude stringent views on excellent dining establishments. His goal merely consists of venturing out, enjoying the fresh air, stretching his legs and exploring fascinating corners of Ireland. Neven’s Coastal Food Trails doesn’t promise much more than this – albeit being a culinary adventure served in a simplistic manner, with unnecessary indulgences stripped away. It may not be extraordinary or smartly presented, but if you fancy a bite, it’s undoubtedly satisfying.