The thrum of the turboprop engines oscillated as the pilot prepared for descent. The local topography, a flawless combination of barren, tan hues painted with raw, scruffy allure, appeared to rise to meet us. The handful of passengers aboard fell silent.
The aeroplane appeared to linger just over the terrain before the pilot initiated touchdown, not on a runway but rather the sandy expanse of a colossal tidal beach. The sound of saltwater misting onto the plane’s undercarriage pervaded the cabin as it adjusted to cruising speed. This uniquely positioned airstrip is situated on the petite Isle of Barra, part of the remote Outer Hebrides island group off the northwest coastline of Scotland – an hour’s aircraft ride away from Glasgow, standing apart from anything else found in either Europe or possibly, worldwide.
The Outer Hebrides, also known as the Western Isles, is in complete contrast to the rest of the UK. From its distinctive terrain to local accents tinged with a near Nordic lilt —everything feels unique. This includes the Scottish Gaelic (pronounced like “Gallic”) dialect spoken by nearly half of the 26,000 inhabitants. The blend of chosen religions amongst the amiable locals also stands out, with Sabbatarian Presbyterians occupying the northern isles and areas towards the south like Barra taking up a more traditional form of Catholicism reflective of western Ireland from a few decades ago.
Despite their distinct characteristics, the Western Isles signify crucial political shifts unsettling the Scottish government and to some degree, Westminster 800km away – a similar distance from Paris to Barcelona. Interestingly, residents of the Western Isles are virtually divided down the middle on the question of Scotland’s independence. The Scottish National Party (SNP), which has closely held control over the islands’ Westminster constituency, termed as Na h-Eileanan an Iar in Gaelic, for almost twenty years, is likely to lose its stronghold. This has raised prospects for Labour in the imminent election as they envisage gaining favour in Scotland.
The Western Isles are plagued by issues that are familiar to many across the UK such as the shortage of affordable housing for the youth and gaps in healthcare. However, they also face unique challenges specific to the location such as escalating depopulation and a poorly managed ferry network that is causing transportation issues. Brian Wilson, ex-UK Labour government minister and a board member of Celtic football club, who resides in the scenic village of Mangersta in the northern Isle of Lewis, criticizes centralization of power and mentions its detriment to the region.
Angus Brendan MacNeil, an independent who has been representing the Western Isles as an MP since 2005, was ousted from the SNP following a disagreement with the party’s chief whip in the House of Commons. MacNeil, a fervent supporter of Scottish independence, is now running independently in the Westminster election. This is set to divide the SNP vote and possibly pave the way for Labour’s contender for Na h-Eilenanan an Iar, Torcuil Crichton, ex-political journalist and a native of Lewis, to win the seat.
MacNeil, son of a Waterford nurse who remained on the island upon marrying a local postman, hails from a nearby rural settlement and has an elderly aunt living in Ireland as a nun. Swift to assert that he never enters elections with an expectation to lose, MacNeil is aiming to win despite the odds leaning in Labour’s favor.
After promising to meet for dinner on Barra, MacNeil arrived late due to an unexpected incident. Having rushed home from the village of Castlebay, he revealed that a neighbour’s sheep had a medical emergency, thus leaving him in need of a shower before dinner.
Not long after our arrival, which was less touched by the smell of the countryside, we ventured towards the Craigard’s entrance for our evening meal. Angus Brendan MacNeil introduced us to a local who was headed to the establishment’s bar, “This is Angus MacNeil,” he told us, presenting his jovial neighbour who gave us a handshake.
Being on Barra, we quickly understood that the MacNeils were a large clan here. The moon was just beginning to shine on Kisimul Castle, situated off the coast of the village, illuminating the 1,000-year-old dwelling – once the ancestral home of the MacNeil clan.
MacNeil, who serves as the Member of Parliament, shared tales about the workforce scarcity on this island of approximately 1,200 residents. The individual responsible for preparing our dinner also completed postal rounds. Her mother served us our meal and was then found behind the bar serving drinks to the island’s small group of locals an hour later. The islands begin to bustle a bit in the summertime, due to the tourists.
“Living on an island like this offers a unique mix of personalities,” MacNeil explained. “There’s a vernacular of humour. They can be the best of friends, then deliver a playful jab, and then return to being your best pals.”
In the pub that evening, he received his fair share of playful taunts, cheeky banter included. When inquisitive about one individual’s nickname ‘Bread’, MacNeil clarified, “His name is Aran.” Apparently Scottish Gaelic has significant similarities with Irish.
The pub’s locals showed more reluctance to discuss MacNeil’s aspiration for independence. Their focus was more inclined towards local housing and the upheaval caused by the delay in two new ferry deliveries for the Caledonian MacBrayne service. The new ferries are running five years behind schedule, and the costs have tripled to £360 million for taxpayers. These hold-ups have hampered inter-island transportation and commuting.
“It’s widely believed that the ferries are constantly faulty due to their age,” an elderly woman shared during a chat at the local store the following day. She then broke into a grin, “I was under the impression that we were the only ageing ones.”
MacNeil advocates for undersea tunnels, akin to those in the Faroe Islands, to link the islands. In the Western Isles cluster, 15 are inhabited with around 50 deserted. MacNeil has engaged in conversations with potential Middle Eastern investors who might fund the project of connecting the main islands – but only if the government gives its approval.
Constructing tunnels to unite the islands could run into multiples of millions, as highlighted by MacNeil, who mentioned that a similar project costed Faroes £9.8 million for every kilometre. At present, journeying the 210km distance from Barra, through Uist, Benbecula, to the northern town of Stornoway in Lewis involves two ferries and over five hours, assuming the ferry schedules coincide. Stornoway, which is linked to the scenic and hilly Isle of Harris by a causeway.
Crichton, a former journalist with almost 15 years covering Westminster before delving into politics, spotlighted depopulation as the primary challenge tackled by the islands. There was a 5.5% decline in the population between the 2011 and 2022 census, and projections indicate a further 6% dip by 2028. Meanwhile, the population above the age of 75 is predicted to increase by a quarter.
Prosperous retirees are acquiring houses and crofts (traditional farming crops with secure tenancy) as secondary residences, outpricing young families and causing a shift of preference to mainland living.
“The economy is hitting maximum capacity. There are operations centred on seaweed processing. The demand for Harris Tweed is growing. There are job availabilities, but the issue lies in the lack of social housing. Private properties have become unaffordable for most younger individuals”, Crichton explained.
Crichton commented on a stretch of opulent residences as he drove in his crimson and white striped miniature car beside old farming grounds transformed into luxury properties from the historic Rodel church on Harris. New constructions, when they occur, are mainly located near Stornoway, draining the life out of remote communities like Mangersta, where, per Wilson, a quarter of the 12 residential properties serve as vacation homes.
Depopulation, a dearth of housing, and accessibility issues on the islands, intensified by strained air services, have led to other complications. A recent NHS analysis identified depopulation as the foremost risk to healthcare and treatment services on the Western Isles – retirees require more medical attention compared to the physically fit, but decreasing, young families. The NHS report concluded that the services were “unfeasible”.
Healthcare administrators on Benbecula and the Uist islands, located mid-sequence in the island chain with a half-Protestant, half-Catholic population, are presenting illustrious contracts of a potential £150,000 to entice five critically needed general practitioners. Crichton, meanwhile, addressed the prevalent issue of fuel poverty, acknowledging that the colder island temperatures surpassed those of other regional areas. Resultingly, according to government measurements, the incidence of fuel poverty has soared to 40%, significantly higher than Scotland’s average of 24%.
Crichton has pledged to support island communities in obtaining equal shares in ambitious renewable energy ventures, one example being the Spioraid na Mara wind farm project which is a quarter owned by ESB. Locals, however, have raised concerns about the significant wind turbines set to be situated three miles off the coast of western Lewis, with one poster at Uig community shop pleading to “stop the wind farm madness”.
In terms of language, local artist and Gaelic expert Malcolm Maclean has expressed discontent with the government’s ineffective handling of the language revival. Maclean states that funding to encourage a Gaelic resurgence has predominantly been directed towards mainland urban regions, with the Western Isles receiving relatively less resources. Although the number of Gaelic speakers is still higher here than in other areas, a decline has been observed.
Maclean declared, “The Hebrides language is facing a critical moment due to strategic shortcomings. It signifies another instance of power being excessively centralized. The visibility of these islands from Edinburgh is obscured; their sights only reach as far as Glasgow or Inverness. The outcome has been devastating.”
However, an encouraging attitude can be seen in the Western Isles’ lack of religious hostility, distinguishing itself from other regions. The islands have managed to maintain a peaceful co-existence between the Catholic southern inhabitants and northern Presbyterians, who observe a sabbath tradition of closed businesses on Sundays. Maclean, despite growing up within a native islander family in Glasgow, encountered sectarianism from an early age owing to his upbringing across from Ibrox. However, he noted that this atmosphere is completely absent on the islands, differing vastly from the societal norms in places like Glasgow.
Maclean expressed his desire for Government to put renewed emphasis on improving life on the islands as dusk fell on his pastoral sanctuary. He called for amplified services and access to prevent the prospective demise of the archipelago due to dwindling population. He noted the neglect towards this area, often seen as insignificant. Yet, he believed that attitude shift could redirect the power from the central government in Edinburgh, enabling numerous possibilities. Without such revisions, he warned of an inevitable decline.