John F McGuire, the man who took over the Selfridges store alongside his children, was a figure nearly as prominent in the retail sector as Mile-A-Minute Harry had previously been. A part of the Catholic middle class who began his journey as an apprentice in a drapery shop, McGuire was able to become a thriving manager at Clerys located on O’Connell Street. As the owner of Brown Thomas, his vision was to shape it into a contemporary and inclusive brand.
The primary features of the store included a contemporary hairdressing salon that offered a trendy hairstyle, the permanent wave; a masterful corset maker, Madame Booker, who introduced the innovative radioactive corset; a department that boasted an array of modern appliances for laundry, cooking, and ironing purposes driven by “Shannon juice”; and the alluring Afternoon Dainty Tea for one shilling, enjoyed with the musical backdrop of Miss Leenane’s String Orchestra.
As the Jazz Age flapper transformed into a sharp-angled, well-clothed businesswoman embracing the 1930s style trend, chic models flaunted bell-bottomed trousers during the Thrilling New Cruising and Beach Exhibition in the Fabric Hall. John McGuire desired to attract clients from various social strata. He recognised the significance of convents in Irish towns and began reaching out to mothers superior all over Ireland, offering to accommodate their specific needs. He even attached a colourful poster promoting products like “Brussels Nets for Veils; Virgin Blue Cloaking for Children of Mary; Black Serge; Scapular Braids; Nuns’ Comfortable Seamless Shoes …”
The shop also hosted an exhibit of modern paintings by Ecole de Paris, including pieces by Henri Hayden: the cubist painter and acquaintance of Samuel Beckett. This was the first of many display in the newly built basement Art Gallery.
McGuire entrusted the aesthetic design of the store to his son, Ned, a sports enthusiast, tennis champion and painter, who climbed the ladder to become a director of the National Gallery and a senator. At Brown Thomas, his father allowed him to take creative control over the look of the store. Ned focused on a classical theme, with plaster columns and an Italian marble staircase – a testament to his interest in design. Perhaps his most ingenious move was hiring his friend and artist, Norah McGuinness, to design the window displays.
McGuinness, a contemporary artist with a great deal of travel experience under her belt, also dipped her toes into the world of commercial design and illustration. She initially gained recognition for her innovative window designs for top-tier New York department stores, as well as for her contributions to the esteemed Abbey Theatre as a designer. McGuinness was responsible for introducing the concept of ‘a motif’ to window displays at Brown Thomas, the first of its kind. Previously, window displays featured chaotic collages of diverse products, with her input, window displays became more thematic and coherent. Her first window design was extremely popular and attracted a considerable amount of attention. What set McGuinness apart was her ability to manipulate lighting, she was among the first to incorporate pinhead, spot, and flood lights into window displays. McGuinness’s contributions to Brown Thomas really laid a foundation for the store’s reputation as an artistic hub, frequented by intellectuals and artists, especially during the war. The ‘Modern Tea Rooms’ was remembered by poet Máire Mac an tSaoi as an ‘artistic utopia’.
In 1947, Christian Dior’s ‘New Look’ signalled the end of an era of austerity brought about by wartime rationings, amplifying the elegance and grace of the post-war period. Dior’s ballerina skirts are noteworthy for their luxurious use of fabric. In 1950, Brown Thomas became host to a Dior Boutique, a precise replicate of the Dior Salon in Paris. To inaugurate the new boutique, Dior himself visited, accompanied by his own models, one of whom, Brigitta from Sweden, later wedded Ned’s successor, John.
In contrast to Switzers department store which encountered serious union problems in 1947, including a nine-week strike, Brown Thomas managed to foster a healthier relationship with its staff. This harmony was notably demonstrated during the Centenary Dance at the Shelbourne hotel. In his address to John McGuire, staff representative Bruce Martin compared the employees to a large familial unit with John as the leader.
Positions at Brown Thomas were highly sought after, deemed a badge of “honour and glory”. At the young age of 16, Sylvia Herron, a school dropout, happened upon its lush corridors, securing her placement as an apprentice, one of the last, by waiving her apprenticeship fees. Her high-spirited demeanour and hint of “impudence” often led her to the manager’s office. The daily arrival of Senator (Ned) McGuire, known for his immaculate grooming, set a precedent amongst employees. During the Fashion Ball that took place annually in the Gresham, the senator supplied plentiful champagne.
The Record Rendezvous in Switzers was the gathering spot of the youthful and trendy during the Beatlemania period, where they could enjoy the newest singles in soundproofed booths. Flick Buckley, a consultant for Mary Quant, frequently sported a provocative Quant mini dress as she explored the shop.
Brown Thomas was awarded the Coupe d’Or Du Bon Gout Francais for its exceptional taste in 1960, solidifying its glamour when Princess Grace and her spouse Prince Rainier visited the subsequent year during their trip to Ireland. Norah McGuinness themed the entire store in the Monaco colours of red and white replete with Mediterranean accents like cactus plants. Grace left an impression of being “utterly lovely and delicate”, while Rainier’s “spectacular” blue eyes garnered attention.
Celebrities such as James Mason and Rita Hayworth, as well as television personalities like Gay Byrne and Monica Sheridan, frequented the store. However, by 1970, financial stagnation led Brown Thomas to require a saviour. That saviour was Galen Weston, heir of a Canadian retail tycoon who was married to former model, Hilary Frayne from Dublin. The Westons, like their predecessors, introduced a series of changes and innovations.
In the 1980s, the store’s operations were left to the capable and creative management of George McCullagh when the Westons departed for Canada. McCullagh ushered in the most dramatic transformation in the 1990s, merging Brown Thomas with its old rival, Switzers, and relocating to the latter’s premises. This fusion of ‘the best of both worlds’ set the stage for this esteemed store’s journey into the new millennium.
“Elegant Times, A Dublin Story” is a historical narrative about Brown Thomas and Switzers in Dublin, spanning from the 1800s to the 1980s. Authored by Anne Haverty, the book was published in 1995 by Sonas.