An exhibition exploring Irish contribution to the French résistance is currently taking place in an obscure Dublin venue, filled with an air of mystery and historical significance, reminiscent of the resistance itself. I had planned to attend the formal opening last weekend but instead opted for a less crowded visit on Monday, following an invitation to the Ireland Institute located at 27 Pearse Street, Dublin.
To my surprise, I found no trace or signage of the significant-sounding Ireland Institute on reaching No. 27. Instead, I was met by an old signage that read “Pearse & Sons, ecclesiastical and architectural sculptures.” The connection to the famous Pearse brothers was affirmed by two plaques on the wall, memorialising their roles in the revolution. In addition, a nearby plaque beside the sealed Georgian entrance labelled the place as “Ionad an Phiarsaigh – the Pearse Centre”.
I momentarily speculated if there could be two 27 Pearse Streets divided into upper and lower areas. However, my iPhone and trusty assistant, Google Maps, confirmed that this indeed was the location of the Ireland Institute, although it seemed to be masquerading something else.
Much to my relief, a young woman who happened to interact with a courier making a delivery in the vicinity affirmed my destination upon mentioning the exhibition. Once inside, it dawned on me how uniquely fitting it was that an official institute dedicated to arts and culture was discreetly housed within the old revolutionary hub.
The venue definitely added to the experience of the Irish In Resistance exhibition, a collective response by painters, poets, and filmmakers to the stories of twelve Irish individuals, with a female majority, who served covertly in France and Belgium during World War II. Samuel Beckett’s involvement in the resistance was well-known – including his accolades of a Croix de Guerre and a Médaille de la Résistance. To no surprise, his contribution was highlighted once again in this exhibition.
The exhibition showcases those less known heroes of the past, among them Maureen Patricia “Paddy” O’Sullivan (1918-1994). Raised in Dublin and later Belgium, she enlisted in England’s Women’s Auxiliary Air Force during the war and then parachuted into pre-D-Day France.
Surviving a hard landing thanks to her backpack filled with two million French francs, O’Sullivan became a resistance wireless operator in Limoges’ vicinity, winning the Croix de Guerre and later the MBE upon return to England.
Another hero, unluckily, was met with a darker fate: Catherine Crean (1879-1945), Dublin native who shifted to Belgium for employment. In her sixties when World War II began, Crean, while working as a resident governess in Brussels, became involved in local resistance, aiding allies and citizens evade Nazi rule. Crean was held captive in 1942, likely suffered interrogation and torture, then was relocated to the Ravensbruck concentration camp – her death came through dysentery in April of 1945.
Other tales are more uplifting, such as that of Margaret Kelly (1910-2004), a Dublin native born into poverty and fostered in O’Connell Street. Known as “Bluebell” due to her vivid eyes, she migrated to Liverpool and began dance classes which eventually propelled her professional career. Initiating the “Bluebell Girls”, her troupe paralleled the Riverdance in its heyday, establishing three separate performing teams in Paris, Las Vegas, and touring performances.
Kelly, an Englishwoman, married a Jewish-Romanian musician which resulted in her involvement in the resistance too. Both of them faced internment for some time. Kelly was suspected of concealing her husband, which brought her into Gestapo’s attention for interrogation, but she survived. Interestingly, Francois Truffaut’s film, The Last Metro (1980), drew some inspiration from their story.
She lived until the age of 94, and her tombstone at Montmartre reflects the numerous French military accolades she earned. It also carries her nickname, “Miss Bluebell”, attributed to her by a Dublin-based doctor nearly ninety years previous.
The exhibit called “The Irish in Resistance” has been organised by artist Mary Moynihan and features works from Hina Khan, Féilim James, and Amna Walayat. It will be open every day, Sundays included, at the Pearse Centre, otherwise known as the Ireland Institute, until October concludes. If you find the door closed upon reaching, knock thrice and mention that “Frank the Irishman” has referred you.