Pies, the epitome of homely nourishment, are great for evenings that begin to darken earlier. The first mention of the steak and kidney pie, one of the oldest recipes, dates back to around the mid-19th century. The French and British are particularly credited with mastering the technique of pie-making. In their most basic form, pies are loaded with spice and a deep richness of taste. The syrupy pastry shell acts as a sponge for excess gravy, lending an absolute thrill to the dish. In their most intricate avatars, pies might be viewed as pieces of art, better suited for art exhibits rather than dining establishments. The genius behind the pairing of pastry and stuffing, notably demonstrated by British chef Callum Franklin and Karen Torosyan from the renowned Bozar Restaurant in Belgium, captivates me immensely.
The global reach of pies was further broadened by the British Empire. Especially in Australia and New Zealand, unique adaptations utilising local ingredients are prevalent. Years ago, my wife and I embarked on a pleasurable journey after our work commitment in Melbourne had ended. We met companions in Auckland and dedicated six weeks to explore the magnificent landscapes of New Zealand aboard a commodious backpacker bus, painted in layers of radiant green.
We would hop onto a diverse town or village at the twilight of each day. While some spots echoed the charm of postcards, others possessed an untamed western vibe. Based on the social quotient of each stop, the expenditures on dinner would fluctuate. Keep in mind, we were geared up for five more months of touring. In case of approaching festivities, a budget pie was the best bet for supper. To our relief, our robust metabolism handled these hearty meals without any complications.
What left an indelible impression on me was the unmatched gusto of every town and pie manufacturer in flaunting their creations. “Best Pie in NZ” billboards were numerous along the journey. Most variants comprised of a blend of minced meat and harder cuts, resulting in a rich texture. The sauce was dense and savoury, wrapped in a crusty puff pastry shell. Enjoyed like sandwiches using our bare hands, they provided a filling dinner for under $5.
This week’s culinary inspirations have been derived from that incredible journey, the individuals we met, and the locales we encountered. We’re kicking things off with a traditional pie featuring steak and lamb kidneys. The latter are notable for their mild taste and the robust depth they impart to the gravy. To lessen the thought of eating them, I’ve chopped them into minuscule pieces so they blend into the dish. The slow-cooked beef dissolves on the tongue, and the inclusion of flour gives the gravy its comforting thickness, just the way I remember it. Our second recipe harnesses the delectable combination of chicken and mushroom, housed under a crispy, caramelised puff pastry roof. This dish is perfectly suited for a cake tin or oven pan and can conveniently be prepared ahead to simply toss into the oven after a long day at work. Do pay attention to the generous seasoning in both dishes: this is a crucial element. True comfort food for the chilly months, indeed.
Recipe: Traditional Steak and Kidney Pie
Recipe: Puffed Chicken and Mushroom Pie.