One would be remiss not to visit a Chinese eatery in Limerick especially when it’s given the seal of approval by Blindboy, Ireland’s renowned culinary critic. The Guardian has praised Blindboy in 2022 for producing some of the finest food commentary presently published, hence Carnival, located at the apex of William Street, it must be.
The initiation point might seem obscure but city walks invariably present an opportunity to absorb the contrasting flavours of distinctive districts. The shop is abuzz with activity, stocked goods being unloaded and transported to the rear. On the left, one encounters Soba, a seating space patronised by steadfast culinary enthusiasts lost in their simmering bowls of Ramen and Pho. However, my purpose is to try the Mála Spice Bag. As per Blindboy’s podcast, “This spice bag is as perplexing as a charred car, is it enjoyable, one can’t say, but post consumption, it persists in memory.”
It offers a delectable toss-up of scorching chips and chicken strips seasoned with Sichuan pepper and garnished with finely sliced fresh red chili. It’s as numbing as Blindboy had previously described, capable of rejuvenating a spirit on a dreadful rainy day, although today, it stood neutral, devoid of an arsonist’s touch. The seasoning is compellingly spicy and seems to ambitiously target my prescribed weekly salt consumption.
A stroll of a quarter-hour leads me to Nicholas Street’s Treaty City Brewery where a selection of craft beers served to abate the remaining heat and rehydrate my parched tongue. One can educate themselves about the craft beer brewing process at Treaty City, learn about the building’s history, and the brewing legacy of Limerick dating back to the 18th century. The brewery serves as a charming stop during the city’s famed tri-bridge walk, providing unfiltered insights into local life and conversations with the bartender and resident artists.
The city of Limerick is evolving, locals will assert that long overdue. The youthful vigour that’s revitalising the city can be especially felt in its Medieval Quarter, a place begging to be inhabited. The city is set to script history as it will be the first in Ireland to elect a lord mayor directly. Anticipation is stirring with hope for urban renewal and game-changing projects like the 10-acre Cleeves Riverside Quarter.
One noteworthy place in this city is No 1 Pery Square, established in 2009 by Patricia Robson, a boutique hotel located at the terminus of the three-bridge walk. This hotel overlooks the lush People’s Park, situated in the Georgian district where tax incentives are unveiled through the Living City Initiative to encourage the restoration of historic buildings. The hotel’s eatery, Sash, is a popular dining option in the city, heavily showcasing local offerings like Kevin Wallace’s organic New Leaf Urban Farm produce, recently moved to O’Grady estate’s 19th-century walled garden located in Kilballyowen, Bruff.
Patricia Robson is recognised as a visionary within Limerick, credited for seeing the locality’s potential. She confesses, however, that the transformation took longer than anticipated. Over the recent years, she has witnessed a rise in the number of individuals making a home in the city, refurbishing vintage buildings, and starting food enterprises during the day.
One such individual is Dalton Greene, proprietor of Rift, a larder and coffee shop on close-at-hand Mallow Street. Originally from Tipperary, Greene resides in a century-old terraced house in the city, merely a five-minute walk away from his business.
In his words, “Limerick has consistently been making progress, although it hasn’t quite reached its potential yet. It’s a fascinating city, affordable, and there are intriguing events transpiring. The city is throbbing with more energy and is certainly on its way up.”
Four years ago, he acquired his dwelling at a cost lower than €150,000. When Rift was founded at the onset of 2020, he invested an initial sum of €10,000. At present, work is in progress to spread out into the adjacent unit, thereby increasing the number of seats available in the cafe. Prime coffee is his central area of focus, and the cafe’s menu boasts locally sourced ingredients for the meals that they serve.
He is prominently engaged in the natural wine trend prevalent in Limerick. A wide selection of eco-friendly wines is a feature of his offering. Previously, he doubled as a wine bar serving small dishes in the evenings throughout the summer period. He’s planning to restart this initiative as of the end of May once the expansion is completed. Considering he’s located in Limerick city’s business hub, daytime business tends to be reliable, and he anticipates drawing in some evening customers as well.
Limerick also boasts Cavavin, a liquor store with a cheese and charcuterie section which began operations along Bedford Row the prior September. It enjoys a bustling sandwich business in the daytime and hosts evening wine tastings in the wine bar upstairs.
Limerick also happens to be the city where Paul Williams, a trailblazer of the third-wave coffee trend, set up shop. Twelve years ago, he set up Canteen, presently the base for Rift, and has now moved to bigger premises on Catherine Street. This is the same street on which you’ll also find Fika; Klaud9 is headquartered on Thomas Street. Additionally, Alan Andrews from The Old Barracks Coffee Roastery unveiled Guji, the newest coffee shop on O’Connell Street.
Limerick has a charmingly preserved character. Along the primary roads, you’ll still come across essential businesses like key-cutters and shoe repair services, as well as a fair share of traditional pubs.
If a city possesses quality bakeries, it signifies that they’re serious about their food. A case in point is Angel Dust patisserie, managed by Finn Robson, where items such as choux, eclairs, macaroons, blood orange tarts and croissants vanish quickly from the shelves. Sunflower, trading at The Milk Market on Cornmarket Row on Saturdays, is the place to go for your sourdough, quiches, and pies. Additional traders at the market incorporate Sefik Dikyar, renowned for delightful baklava, Bon Appétit crepes which typically has the longest queue, The Cheese Press, Herst Botanicals kombucha, sea herbs by Thalli, local fishmongers, butchers and growers, and Peter Ward of Country Store from Nenagh.
In 2021, Eva Clarke introduced Wickham Way at the top of Thomas Street, a bustling market in a previously occupied plant hire shop, adorned with bunting and festival lights. This market, hosting approximately 30 food stalls, mostly serving hot food, provides a glimpse into the diverse community dwelling in Limerick. Chilean food is provided by Sebastian Silva and Lisette Godoy of Lizz Bakery, fractura and medialuna from Alfajores Argentinos, and dosa by Raasta Foods. Not too far away, on High Street, Gwen and Carlos Dasco run Dasco Deli, presenting enticing options between a full Irish breakfast and Filipino dishes like tapsilog, a breakfast dish comprising marinated beef, garlic rice and a fried egg, accompanied by beef broth, apple and cucumber salad.
Limerick retains its untouched aesthetic charm. Main streets are still graced with key cutters and shoe repair outlets, and classic pubs are in abundance. Tom Collins, the Front Bar at Nancy Blake’s, JJ Bowles, Locke’s Bar, Charlie Malones and Souths are amongst the city’s favourites. Fans of the theatre are drawn to The White House, where you may find Miles Breen reading. The Curragower Bar, offering delightful bowls of chowder with to-die-for river views, is much loved by locals.
Embark on a journey out of the city for a wider choice in culinary delights. The East Room at Plassey House, located within the campus of the University of Limerick, may come as a surprise. It was no more than a private dining hall within the president’s office until the takeover of Derek Fitzpatrick as the chef in 2017, making it accessible publically. Presently, he conjures up a regular and tasting menu for evening meal times, with a comparatively simplified menu for lunch hours.
A mere fifteen-minute drive away from Limerick will land you in the enchanting small town of Adare. Here, not only will you experience the grandiose of Adare Manor and Michelin-starred Oak Room restaurant headed by chef Mike Tweedie, but you’ll stumble upon a plethora of divine eateries. Logr, the delightful daytime cafe by David and Petra Hay, is the site to stop by for exquisite pancakes or French toast garnished with berries, a light midday meal, or a satisfying pastry alongside your cup of coffee. The tables adorned with fresh flowers and the restriction of laptop use between 10am-2pm, maintain a strong sense of community ambiance.
The equally laid-back restaurant, 1826 Adare run by Wade and Elaine Murphy, also deserves a mention. However, prior reservation is imperative. They offer a menu which echoes the current season featuring an array of seafood options like oysters, crabs, and black sole – alongside local produce of lamb, beef, and chicken. Everything is cooked to perfection with just the right amount of garnishing touch.
If you’re looking for a more traditional dining experience, The Dunraven should be your go-to. Lauded in the first Michelin guide UK and Ireland version in 1911, it upholds a vintage style approach with white tablecloths and waiters decked in lengthy white aprons. Their standout €45 Sunday carvery lunch is well worth the visit. Thanks to a designated refrigerator for beef carcass aging, the prime roast rib they offer is truly stunning. Skillfully hand-carved by Louis Murphy, the hotel owner, it is served cooked to your preference, complete with Yorkshire pudding and all the trimmings. Opting for an overnight stay will glass off your weekend visit to Limerick perfectly.
This review was penned by Corinna Hardgrave, a guest speaker at Fáilte Ireland.