I find myself at Kate Kearney’s Cottage close to Killarney, a locale that is unfamiliar to me. Over yonder, two young ladies are energetically hopping over a brush, while skilled male musicians serenade us with traditional tones. The establishment is packed to the rafters with patrons enjoying their meals. We’re spectators to a night filled with regional music and dancing, set against a beautiful backdrop of natural scenery. On the outskirts, multiple tourist coaches have parked, with one arriving ahead of schedule, creating a stir behind the scenes.
The tour I’m a part of, titled ‘Irish Gold: CIÉ coach tour’, which lasts eight days, is overseen by Marlene Sullivan. She’s served in her role for “20 and a bit years”, emphasizing the ‘bit’. Throughout my time with CIÉ’s troupe, Sullivan establishes herself as a captivating and knowledgeable guide, the very kind one could only hope for when exploring uncharted territories. Her warmth and wit elevate the experience, proving to be more beneficial than any history book.
There are 42 participants in our excursion, with few having previously toured Scotland. The journey commenced in Dublin and has taken us to Galway, Connemara, the Cliffs of Moher, Killarney, Blarney Castle, Waterford, and Kilkenny. Presently, it’s the fourth day. CIÉ Tours offers a range of experiences and hosted 31,000 tourists in Ireland in the year 2023.
Of the 42 group members, only four are not US citizens. For most I converse with, it’s their inaugural visit to Ireland. There are a few large family contingents and some individuals in their twenties and thirties, which includes Beth Boehlefeld (24) and Tyler Andre (31). Andre popped the question to Boehlefeld at the Cliffs of Moher in Co Clare earlier.
Andre, who had brought a diamond ring, said he took the gamble that Boehlefeld would say yes. He felt the Cliffs would provide the perfect backdrop for the proposal. His extended clan of 13 knew his intention, and they managed to capture the entire exchange on camera. Thankfully, Beth said yes, turning the occasion into a memorable event.
At Kate Kearney’s Cottage, it’s impossible to keep track of the number of tourists from the CIÉ tour who express their sheer joy at sharing a drink with the locals at the tavern. Sure, the entertainment, consisting of local dancers and musicians, is curated and performed largely for the pleasure of the tourists, alongside a scrumptious dinner. It’s a delightful display of Irish culture, despite its staged nature. I question whether the guests are fully aware of this façade.
However, the concept of an “authentic experience” is increasingly fluid in this modern age. When constrained by time, these tailored programs offer a glimpse into a deeper cultural narrative. Regardless, it’s evident that everyone is immersed in the moment, blissfully ignorant of my musings on authenticity–a subject as complex as it is profound.
The subsequent morning, we gather for a jaunting-car expedition to Ross Castle, traversing the beautiful terrain of Killarney’s National Park. Engrossed in a conversation in the hotel foyer, Donald Rice from Arizona is reviewing his understanding of Irish history thus far with his companion, Jeff Seagel.
Seagel summarises, “The history of Ireland seems to be steeped in conflict.”
“It’s challenging to remember all the facts,” Rice admits before raising the topic of Cromwell.
Upon questioning Rice’s knowledge of Cromwell, he jokingly posits, “He was a good guy, wasn’t he?”
Seagel corrects him with a simple shake of the head, “No, Cromwell was not one of the good guys.”
We are introduced to our jarvey driver, Michael Joy, alongside his horse Murphy. Joy humorously comments, “Where there’s Joy, there’s no sorrow,” as we head out from the Great Southern Killarney hotel. Joy, with over four decades of jarvey experience under his belt, inherited by his late father Brendan, is still in the process of acquainting himself with Murphy. This is the reason he allows other jarveys to precede us.
Upon learning that some of us hail from Pennsylvania, he shares that Murphy’s impressively crafted harness and braided reins were all products of the Amish community in Pennsylvania, home to four harness-making companies.
“These reins have lasted 15 years,” he adds proudly, “Most jarvey drivers prefer harnesses crafted by the Amish.”
In the height of their verdant summer glory, the trees shimmer, mirroring the sparkling lake, with Ross Castle silently keeping watch in the background. Jaunting car rides are such a delight, I could easily enjoy them quite often. Our jester, Joy, flings jokes our way with precision as though we were birds being fed, clearly experienced in this routine.
Engaging in playful frolics, lambs appear in a nearby field. Joy lets slip about his own lambs back home. This revelation prompts an “Aww” from my co-jaunters. The warm sentiment quickly flips when he shares, “They’re in the freezer”. His joke about politicians and bananas raised eyebrows. I ask for the punchline when no one else would: “They aren’t straight, initially green, eventually turn yellow and rot.” Apparently, the lamb joke was better received.
Post our brief exploration of Ross Castle, we return to our coach and proceed to Kenmare. The team at CIÉ Tours used to take the round trip of the Iveragh Peninsula, often referred to as the Ring of Kerry. But due to feedback about the duration of these excursions, Sullivan shared that the itinerary now includes a trip to Kenmare via the Gap of Dunloe and additional leisure time in Killarney.
We enjoy a pit stop at Moriarty’s charming family-operated gift shop. Initiated by Margaret and Michael Moriarty, their son Denis presently manages the place, which offers exquisite hand-knit pieces and Irish crafts, majorly made using Irish wool which is now a rarity.
Katie Moorman, a 31-year old traveller from Cleveland, Ohio, accompanied by her 67-year old mother, Sally, purchases a gold and silver Claddagh ring as a memento of their journey. Katie commends the stunning nature of the lakes and mountains, her experience at Kate Kearney’s Cottage, and the intimacy of the dancing exhibition. Sally appreciates the ease provided by a guided tour, while also pointing out a few cultural differences between the US and Ireland that caught her eye; the peculiar absence of wash cloths in bathrooms and the lack of a top sheet beneath the duvet.
I reassure her that the bedding will be cleaned after each occupant. However, the problem isn’t hygiene: she explains that occasionally it becomes excessively hot, and in her home country of America, she’d simply toss aside the duvet and only use a sheet to sleep under. It’s an aspect I’d never previously considered.
“Perhaps it’s due to the fact that scorching nights aren’t common in Ireland,” I suggest.
Before reaching our destination of Kenmare, Sullivan briefs everyone about the ancient stone circle located at the town’s periphery and how to get to it. The buzz in the bus is palpable as passengers look forward to experiencing this historical monument.
Sullivan later opens up to me, saying: “There are individuals who’ve saved throughout their lives to visit Ireland, eager to explore their ancestral roots as well as to see the country. I always wish I could extend further information to them. I try to empathize: what would I be interested in finding out?”
During the afternoon, retracing our steps from Kenmare, I walk over to engage in a conversation with a certain Bruce Kibby from West Virginia. He’s wearing headphones as our bus journeys through the beautifully dramatic landscape, marked by fields, stones and majestic mountains. He removes his headphones to converse. Upon asking, he reveals he was indulging in “Dreams” by Dolores O’Riordan. He’s been a fan for nearly a quarter of a century and has particularly saved this song to listen to while traversing the picturesque Gap of Dunloe. Kibby’s face lights up with sheer happiness as he admits to have been repeating the song for the past thirty minutes or so.
I retreat to my seat, allowing Kibby to continue immersing in the unique experience he’s been eagerly anticipating. I decide not to pose any further questions.