Living outside of Ireland tends to evoke mixed feelings for an Irishman. Perhaps this is largely due to the unique level of human connection and warmth one experiences in Ireland, a country that has treated us with such rich experiences. Currently, I am a resident of Portugal, where I have been for the past five years. There is an ever-present longing for Ireland’s unparalleled charisma, vitality, and wit.
I miss the comforting belief that a simple fleeting encounter between two or more individuals in Ireland could spark a connection. The genuine kindness and spirited generosity of Irish people is only truly understood once you’ve stepped outside the borders of Ireland. The transition to life in Porto, Portugal has been a stark contrast. A majority of the Portuguese people appear to fluctuate between being melancholic, sour, and grumpy.
The locals in Porto that I’ve interacted with show minimal interest in global cultures and keep to themselves, exhibiting a noticeable caution towards foreigners. During one of my encounters in Spain, I had a conversation with a waiter of Portuguese-Spanish parentage. He conveyed to me that while the Spanish are trusting and affirming, their Portuguese counterparts are quite the opposite- distrustful and negative. The term ‘fechado’, meaning closed, is frequently used by Brazilians to describe the Portuguese locals in Porto.
The Portuguese seem to grapple with fragile self-confidence. It becomes explicit when they probe me about my views on their national cuisine, particularly the seafood – a clear attempt to fish for praise. I once shared my observation with a local taxi driver about the lack of seasoning or sauces in Porto’s restaurant dishes resulting in insipid food. He defended it by stating their preference to preserve natural flavours, showcasing a decidedly different culinary approach.
Interestingly, the Portuguese, often react strongly, even to the slightest disagreements. If you freely criticise their traditions or peculiarities, you may be met with an unpleasant, curt or even manipulative comeback.
An example of this was observed in a Facebook group, where a member suggested that Spanish cuisine surpasses the cuisine of Portugal. The sharp retort from a native Portuguese was, “I am genuinely saddened for you!”
In a recent visit to a snazzy wine bar in Porto, a French acquaintance picked up a conversation with the bartender about the exorbitant pricing of the establishment, speculating that it was targeting tourists and expats rather than locals. The bartender vehemently disputed this claim, asserting the presence of Portuguese patrons. When the conversation continued down this line, the bartender rebutted, “Clearly, you’re not acquainted with the right individuals!”
People of Porto have a knack for turning negatives into positives, which can lead to odd situations. They hold their stern demeanor as evidence of sincerity. An example of this is if you raise an issue about the poor quality of service, perhaps in a local grocery store, the usual reply will be “That’s typical in Porto!” or an indifferent “pois!” which translates as “whatever.”
Upon conducting a comparison of cultural aspects among the US, UK, Ireland and Portugal using the Hofstede cultural analytics website, intriguing results were unearthed.
Portugal scored the lowest on factors such as individuality and aspiration among the four nations contrary to being the highest on feeling intimidated by uncertain situations and the most prone to restrict their urges and conduct.
Understanding the unique characteristics of Portugal becomes easier when its history and current situation are considered. It’s the least developed nation in Western Europe and ranks low in terms of education. Previous years of oppressive dictatorship and the enduring conservative Catholicism further contribute to its distinctive culture.
Over the past few years, Porto has been thrust onto the global stage, attracting a surge in settling digital nomads and retirees from nations like America, Britain, and France.
Porto’s property owners are now displacing tenants in order to modernise their buildings to accommodate hotels, apartments and Airbnbs, or to re-let or sell their property at significantly higher prices.
In the face of escalating food costs affecting the well-off alternative economy, the people of Portugal find themselves financially burdened and growing more discontented. The right-wing populist party, Chega, previously insignificant in politics, landed a significant 18 per cent of the votes in the election in March. “Chega” directly translates to “enough!”
Nevertheless, for people like me living abroad in Portugal, the city of Porto offers numerous benefits. The health and transport services are commendable. The social life for expats is superb; I am fortunate to have my girlfriend and friends here. A wealth of splendid beaches are within convenient distance. The youth are courteous and exhibit good manners.
As observed by Hofstede, Portuguese people have admirable self-control. The society has relatively low levels of aggressive individualism or intimidating conduct. In addition, Portugal ranks among the safest nations across the globe.
– Edward Lennon. Originally from Carlow, Lennon spent his formative years in Clontarf, Dublin. He moved to Portugal in 2018, returning to Ireland briefly during the Covid health crisis. He is a writer, journalist, editor, and proofreader. You can find his work on his website, ‘Ireland Calling.’