I finally visited New Orleans in May, a destination that had long-lived on my travel wish-list. The city ensnares you with its rich history, jazz rhythms, astounding architecture, and outstanding cuisine. Its past rulers include the Spanish and French (twice!), and it was known to be the biggest market for slavery in the 18th-century United States. Interestingly, the colonial elitist cuisine drew Escoffier to the bayou, but a number of dishes have African roots, taking inspiration from West African rice dishes.
Gumbo is perhaps the quintessential New Orleans dish, encapsulating the cultural melting pot that the city is. It is a fusion of Cajun and Creole traditions and is an amalgamation of African, Caribbean, Native American, French, Spanish, and Italian culinary influences. I experienced two phenomenal varieties – one at Herbsaint, an upscale restaurant from the portfolio of chef Donald Link, and the other at the unpretentious Li’l Dizzy’s Cafe in Treme, famous for its authentic soul food. Another dish seeped in the city’s history is the po’boy sandwich, often filled with deep-fried oysters or shrimp. This dish gained its name during the 1920s streetcar conductors’ strike when two former workers, Bennie and Clovis Martin, started offering free sandwiches to the striking workers, referring to them as “po’boys”. The best po’boy in the city can be found at Domilise’s.
Rating the vast array of incredible eateries boasting scrumptious dishes in New Orleans would be no easy feat if one were to attempt to capture the city’s food scene comprehensively. Thus, when Krewe South, a 140-seater restaurant that opened in Charlemont Square, Dublin 2 last December, indicates its menu as “NOLA-inspired”, it’s an apt description. While they don’t serve gumbo or po’boys, their promising Taste of Nola sharing grill (priced €60 for two) from Monday to Wednesday caught my attention. It includes a variety of dishes, among which is jambalaya, alleged to have its roots from the jolloff rice.
The beverage selection boasts an extensive list of mixed drinks, unfortunately, the Sazerak, a New Orleans specialty prepared with rye, Herbsaint liqueur (a local take on absinthe) and Peychaud’s bitters, is absent. At Krewe, the focus seems to be on mainstream spirit companies, a trend mirrored in their beer selections. The wine catalogue is direct, with various wines available on tap. We select a bottle of Profundo Albarino, priced at €39.
Our appetisers are brought forward on a communal dish. Heated shrimp are presented in a compact vessel accompanied by bread to soak up a sauce that leans more towards the sweet side rather than a bisque foundation. A couple of jalapeño and cheddar hush puppies are fried dumplings sprinkled with shredded cheese. Conventionally prepared with cornmeal, these are composed with polenta. They could use a stronger hint of jalapeño, however, a drizzle of lemon imparts an acidic veneer. The Cajun calamari, crunchy and deep-fried, is combined with a corn dip, which is quite opaque and sugary; another squeeze of lemon helps balance the flavours.
Our main course is remarkably lavish – Hereford striploin, gooey Cajun pork belly, smoked black pudding, andouille sausage, pot roast brisket and pepper cream sauce; accompanied by two sides, jambalaya and Cajun mac-and-cheese. The steak could’ve done with a higher temperature grill since it seems more boiled than seared, lacking the Malliard reaction that provides all the taste. The pork belly is charred in a sugary barbecue sauce; the brisket, presented in a small pot topped with cheese is slow-cooked and savoury; the mac-and-cheese is hearty with a detectable hint of Cajun spices.
Jamabalaya is usually whipped up from leftovers. This variant introduces chicken, smoked sausage and shrimp atop rice, stirred in with peas, yellow peppers, and onions in a tomato infused sauce.
The way to round off your meal perfectly would be with a plate of beignets (£8), which bear a striking resemblance to those well-known treats at Café du Monde. Though they are somewhat tinier and served in five portions, they stay true to the conventional beignets with their crispy, sugar-coated exterior, giving way to a warm, cakelike centre. They create an ideal conclusion to your dining experience.
Krewe South mirrors the spirit of New Orleans, complete with neon lighting, charming wall paintings and an amiable staff. Despite not offering a full-fledged New Orleans experience, it doesn’t claim to do so. Instead, it promises a lively atmosphere where you can savour a warm meal without feeling the pinch on your pocket.
A meal for two, shared with a bottle of wine, came in at £107.
IN A NUTSHELL: Krewe South offers a taste of New Orleans-inspired cuisine in Dublin’s tribute to the bayou.
Food suppliers: High-grade cuts from Hugh Maguire Butchers, Ray Collier Craft Butchers, Dillons Seafood, and produce from Keelings.
Vegetarian options: Fancy the Gris Gris salad, cauliflower tidbits, crunchy grits, vegan jambalaya, and a vegan burger.
Accessibility for disabled: Complete wheelchair access, including an accessible toilet.
Ambience: Background tunes from The JBs, Otis Redding, and DJ Quick.