I beg your pardon to those born in the early boomer generation who are likely to shiver at the utterance of the term Valpolicella. It revives memories of posh drinks gatherings (as I presume all drinks functions were back then), where the hosts would present their guests with a choice of Muscadet and Fleurie if they had a penchant for French wines, or Soave and Valpolicella if they leaned towards Italian. However, as the demand for these wines soared, unfortunately, their quality dipped, leaving each of them pale imitations of their glorious past. Although top-quality producers were always present, they were frequently overlooked as cheaper wines caught the attention of consumers.
I find unembellished Valpolicella particularly enjoyable, at least, the high-quality ones. To me, they define the essence of ideal summer wines. However, it seems I hold a minority opinion as no major grocery chains appear to stock it. A basic Valpolicella is light, invigorating and teeming with bright red fruits, besides having low alcohol content. Some might taste a tad too light and lack distinct flavour, but an extra few quid can get you some truly delightful wines. The term Classico indicates that the wine has come from the original high-grade mountainous territory, which generally turns out better than ordinary Valpolicella. For a Superiore, it needs to have 1 per cent higher alcohol content than standard Valpolicella and should be left to age for a year, preferable in oak barrels.
Served cool, it brilliantly complements a multitude of summer-tinged delicacies, among them antipasti, mixed salads, chilled meats and cheeses, and even pizza. It also works well as an accompaniment to appetizers at a drinks gathering, as those of an older generation could attest. But, I will reserve the in-depth discussion about Valpolicella Ripasso and Amarone, essentially premium versions of plain Valpolicella, for a later time, notwithstanding the mention of an easily accessible Ripasso shared below.
Featured Wines:
Specially Selected Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2019
14%, priced at €10.49
This medium-bodied, spicy wine has hints of dark berry fruits. Goes well with spaghetti and meatballs or Fegato alla Veneziana.
Available at Aldi.
Corte Giara Valpolicella 2021
12.5%, costs €19.95
Features a pleasing concentration of fresh cherry flavours. Complements lighter pastas, pizza or antipasti.
Available at Wineonline.ie.
Allegrini Valpolicella 2022
13%, priced at €23.95
Refined yet matured dark fruits characterised by a hint of dried herbs and flawlessly counterbalanced acidity are the notes of this wine. It can be procured from outlets such as Clontarf Wines, McHugh’s in D5, Wineonline.ie, Drinkstore in D7, and Baggot Street Wines. The wine in question is the Masi Toar Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2018, priced at €24.50 with a alcohol content of 13%. This wine is medium-bodied, with luxuriously ripe dark fruits and a smooth aftertaste. It complements foods like cheese-infused ravioli or gnocchi superbly. Wineonline.ie, Next Door, and Nolan’s in Clontarf are known sources for this particular wine. [Unravelling the unique nature of Chablis and reason behind its steep pricing.]