Just before embarking on a memorable family holiday to the Land of the Rising Sun – Japan, each one of us was given a chic notebook by my spouse that was intended to be a written record of our unique adventure. However, from the first day on, these journals ended up being virtually untouched. We found ourselves too preoccupied, too exhilarated, and sometimes too bemused to even contemplate making detailed notes by hand. Instead, our 17-day saga in Japan unraveled as beautifully unpredictable as a book or perhaps a manga strip, brimming with unexpected encounters at pig cafés, elaborate tea ceremonies, breakneck-speed bullet trains, and quirky robot cafes.
This sojourn marked the first long-haul journey for our kids aged nine, 11, and 13. We began in the sprawling metropolis that is Tokyo. Our primary travel ports were the local train and the metro station, Shinjuku, which happens to be globally renowned as the busiest of them all. It initially appeared intimidating, but every transportation option came with handy pre-recorded updates in English to assist you with your stopovers. Plus, every station was characterized by easily noticeable instructions in English.
Our itinerary included two days with a chaperone – one in Tokyo and another one in Kyoto, beyond which we were left to our own devices. Mieko, our Tokyo guide, led us first to the Shibuya Scramble Crossing- a famous landmark, followed by a unique café experience at Tokyo Plaza where we were entertained by chatty robots as we savoured our coffee.
Next, we set off to the Meiji Jingu Shrine; a well-known city landmark ensconced within a massive park beside Omotesando – a place that bears resemblance to Tokyo’s version of the Champs-Elysées. Here, we were privy to our very first experience of Japan’s ceremonial, perhaps even superstitious culture – the ritualistic bowing before crossing gates, the spectacle inside, the tradition of writing messages wishing luck. In the labyrinth-like alleys close by, we stumbled upon an eclectic mix of Japan – the state-of-the-art and the noticeably unconventional. This included a visit to the Mipig Café: a petit, must-reserve spot where you get to cozy up with some pint-sized pigs while enjoying a fizzy beverage. This experience, although unconventional, was enlightening. Plus, they ensured us that these piglets were taken very good care of.
Our Tokyo sojourn concluded with a day at the Disneyland Japan and participation in a manga sketching workshop. Additionally, we made time to visit Sensō-ji, a key Buddhist temple of the city, surrounded by classical Japanese residences – a glimpse into a history that is celebrated and held in high regard by all generations.
“Hakone, a fascinating town nestled in a valley and situated a short distance from the capital, offers an extraordinary assortment of activities. These include travelling on the second-longest cable car in the globe to ascend Mount Owakudani. The journey initiates with the Hakone Tozan train, which weaves its way up the mountain, before the car completes the final climb. While the uninterrupted view of distant Tokyo is hard to beat, the real spectacle is at the summit, where volcanic gases rise from the mountain. You might want to sample a hard-boiled egg, cooked in the thermal springs; folklore suggests it could extend your lifespan by seven years. Even if this causes some belching, fear not, the same cable car that took you up will deliver you back to the peaceful shores of Lake Ashinoko. Here, a mock pirate ship will ferry you to the opposite shore. Following a brief, bustling bus ride, you’ll experience a traditional, multi-course Japanese dinner while wearing kimonos. After the meal, unwind in an onsen, or outdoor thermal spa, and bathe under the starry expanse of the night sky.
Subsequent to this action-packed day, a train journey of four hours is all that stands between you and Hiroshima, with its blend of modernity and preserved history. Here, the main streets are adorned with 3D ads, fascinatedly juxtaposed with historic relics like a bank front that bears the scars of the atom bomb dropped on it on 6th August, 1945.”
Hiroshima captivates with its lively spirit and warmth, yet it’s distinct in its dedication to memorialise its grim past. Our journey begins as we stroll towards the heart-rendering remains of the Genbaku or A-bomb Dome alongside Hiroshima’s central river. The Dome, a part of the World Heritage List since 1996, is an iconic remnant of the terrible destruction caused by the Little Boy nuclear bomb, its spectacle amplified against the striking blue sky. We then cross the bridges, entering the Peace Memorial Park where a top-notch museum vividly depicts the aftermath of the nuclear bomb, leaving a profound impression. The sight of school students silently comprehending this crucial piece of history at the park’s memorials is deeply poignant. We were pleasantly surprised when three schoolchildren came to us with origami figures, a gesture representing unity and shared purpose, intimately connected to Hiroshima’s transformative past.
Our explorations continue as we take a day trip to Miyajima, a forested island easily accessible by a quick ferry ride from our base in Hiroshima. The famous floating torii gate of the Itsukushima Shrine serves as a top draw, known as one of Japan’s most photographed spectacles. The island offers more to visitors, such as bustling shops selling Momiji Manju, a delectable local treat of small maple-shaped cakes that even the wandering deer seem to adore. A moderate hike from the bustling marketplaces leads to serene temples and quaint cafes, nestled amid the island’s lush forest.
The next stop in our journey is the enchanting paradise for art lovers, Naoshima island. The picturesque isle, blessed with a Mediterranean climate, houses numerous artistically appealing settlements, each brimming with galleries. It’s as though art has permeated every corner of this place. An amusing surprise awaits us when we find a giant teacup sculpture, initially mistaken for a café on the local map. The expressions on our faces were quite the sight.
Residing at the Benesse House, an esteemed hotel famous for its captivating artwork, offers the opportunity to witness the breathtaking seaside landscape and views of the thriving Takamatsu city gradually disappearing in the evening dusk. It’s like a scene right out of a sci-fi film. Within reach sits the Chichu Art Museum which stands mostly underground, where the sky seems magnified from certain spots. The museum is a sanctuary for masterpieces from globally-acclaimed artists including James Turrell, Walter de Maria, and Claude Monet. Their pieces fill the museum, not least of which Monet’s Water Lilies series, five of which are on display here. For lovers of art, gastronomy, sun, recent nuptials, or simply admirers of woodplated cabins, Naoshima won’t disappoint. Its charm is further enhanced by the iconic red and yellow pumpkin sculptures by Yahoo Kusama, a stalwart in Japanese art. These, coupled with the island’s tranquil rhythm of life, have become Naoshima’s trademarks.
Our journey then takes us to Kyoto, the heart of Japanese tradition, via the high-speed bullet train. As soon as we arrive, we are immersed in a meticulous tea ceremony in a nearby Machiya, a beautifully conserved wooden townhouse. The phrase “ceremonial” here is far from metaphorical. The traditional ritual of getting dressed in a kimono and preparing tea is intriguingly meticulous and enlightening. Every detail of this seemingly archaic part of Japanese culture is demystified by knowledgeable insiders, revealing its enduring significance.
Kyoto is simply amazing, housing the towering Nidec Kyoto Tower, countless Buddhist temples, Shinto shrines, and the lively downtown district. Guided by Keiko, our day time guide, we pay a visit to the renowned Kiyomizu-dera, a Buddhist shrine informally known as the “Pure Water Monastery”. We’re advised to visit early to avoid large crowds. The shrine boasts a history of over 1,200 years, with its primary building an impressive timberwork construction, an astonishing 400 years old, held up entirely by its meticulously arranged cedar lattice, devoid of a single nail. Keiko acquaints us with the age-old tradition of “leaping off the Kiyomizu stage”, where, legend has it, anyone who survives the daring 43ft plunge will have their desires fulfilled.
Joyously, the practice was prohibited in 1872. We also clumsily navigate through Zuigu Hall, a pitch-black underground space where you have the chance to make a wish when you find the Zuigu stone. All this captivates my inclination towards superstition. However, as Keiko clarifies, these differing temples and shrines exist in harmony, similar to how Buddhism and Shintoism cohabit in the lives of numerous Japanese individuals.
Additionally, we explore the Nijo Castle, a vast fortress located elsewhere in Kyoto, and Kinkakuji, the acclaimed Golden Pavilion, one of the most recognised temples in the city, as well as the Ryoanji Temple, which houses the renowned yet humble rock garden, a monument that is a minimum of 500 years old. You simply must sit and observe the stones and sand, reflecting… on everything, really.
We spend a day in the charming town of Arashiyama, known for its Bamboo Grove, which also serves as the starting point for a hike up to the Iwatayama Monkey Park, a locale where macaque monkeys freely roam. Nevertheless, the key attraction in Kyoto is the stimulating energy of the city centre, surrounded by bright lights and bustling crowds, an experience further heightened by our final destination, the nearby metropolis of Osaka. Just as we had begun to think Japan might be too neat and structured, we discover a city with a distinct character, the one location where you can catch sight of revellers who’ve had a bit too much fun, and people smoking while cycling. Dotonbori, the ultimate downtown district, is a spectacle of electronic billboards from floor to ceiling, including the iconic Glico Man sign displaying a runner reaching the finish line, which was first put up in 1935.
Osaka is a marvel, teeming with vibrant markets and cosy coffee shops. The exhilaration of wandering about leads us to prioritise people spotting over immersion in high culture, save for an exhilarating visit to Universal Studios, and my own short but personal visit to the renowned music store, Flake Records, where I find a perplexing selection of CDs and record albums and meet the pleasingly reserved owner.
In summary, we’re utterly enchanted by Japan. I appreciate the fascinating dichotomy of a technologically advanced country like Japan still relying heavily on paper for numerous things, for instance, train passes. I am impressed with the local etiquette and occasional confusion when things go afoul, as when we hopped on an earlier train to the airport, and causing near-diplomatic tension by standing in the gangway to avoid taking another’s spot. I am enthralled by the vibrancy of the sakura trees and the juxtaposition of ultra-modern cities surrounded by lush forests. I find it intriguing and delightful that one could, theoretically, subsist only on the delightful items found in a local 7-11, and am amazed at the sensory onslaught when stepping into an arcade. The exhilaration of such experiences was perhaps epitomised when the Harry Potter ride at Universal Studios malfunctioned briefly causing a few moments of suspense as we were left hanging inverted, strapped in our seats. When the ride resumed, instead of being shown out, we were promptly ushered back in for another thrilling round – leaving us feeling slightly queasy, but absolutely captivated.
Our diaries may be blank, but we return laden with momentos – receipt stubs, brochure, leaflets- not to mention countless photographs, cherished memories and an eagerness to return post-haste. But perhaps the essence of our entire journey is best encapsulated by an entry my son made in his diary about our visit to the Pepper Parlor: “We had this brilliant robot who entertained us with games and served our meals. I’m cheerful.”