Even amidst the downpour in Farringdon, London, the Emerald Eats food stall is bustling with patrons queuing for lunch. In less than half a year, the food outlet, which specialises in Irish comfort food such as chicken fillet rolls, spice bags, and curry chips, has quickly gained popularity. Traditionally, these food items, especially the first one on the list, are not commonly seen in Britain, rather, they’re associated with the delis and takeaway shops in Ireland. Only recently have these tantalising Irish dishes made their debut in Britain.
At the helm of it all is Dublin-native, Emma Moran, who moved to London 11 years ago. The food business had always been a long-standing dream of hers. Partnering with musician Niall Morrissey and pub entrepreneur Henry Spellman, Moran first established a stall at Hackney’s bustling Broadway Market in October. Not long after that, they set up another outlet at Cowcross Yards, a stone’s throw away from the City. Both food stalls have seen their customer numbers skyrocket.
Moran confessed she didn’t anticipate the profound success of their venture. It had been a recurring topic during their pub sessions. She pinpointed her realisation to a time at the Irish Centre in Camden when she heard stories about patrons yearning for flavours familiar to home such as chicken fillet rolls and spice bags. This revelation inspired her to pursue her dream, leaving her former job behind after a restructure was announced.
Emerald Eats entered the spotlight, quite typically in the contemporary food scene, via enthusiastic TikTok users who stumbled upon the food stall. Shortly after, the Irish community residing abroad caught wind of Emerald Eats through word of mouth and could finally satisfy their cravings for their homeland’s comforting fare. Even the Chinese-inspired chips, a common treat after a pint or two, received recognition.
Emerald Eats boasts a menu teeming with traditional dishes that keep to time-honoured culinary practices. Shoppers can choose from freshly baked baguettes filled with chicken fillet rolls — one can opt for the regularly cooked or zesty, deep-fried variant, served with condiments such as lettuce, cheddar cheese, or coleslaw (£8). Alternatively, the brand offers spice bags (£7.50) which, despite being served in a box, remain authentic to their Irish origins.
Moran reveals that the eatery concocts its spice mixture, supplementing it with additions like onions, scallions, and red peppers. She explains that the takeaway boxes were a practical choice aimed at catering to customers who grab lunch to enjoy back at work, rather than at home after partaking at a local pub.
Meanwhile, Dublin native and London resident Ryan Ward is observed enjoying his lunch — a spice box — amid persistent Farringdon drizzles before rejoining his duties. Despite now living in the city, Ward confesses that he frequently patronises Emerald Eats, moved by fond memories of home and the high culinary standard that matches his homeland, Ireland.
Another Irish expatriate, Orla Kelly, is seen eagerly awaiting her order of a spicy chicken roll — a dish she has recommended to her countryfolk back in Dublin through their group chat. Expressing her preference for a simple roll with spicy chicken, lettuce, cheddar, and sauce, she mentions the significant void of a delicatessen culture in London that her compatriots also feel.
Emerald Eats is garnering extensive attention within London’s food industry, impressing prospective business partners and emerging as a promising player in the metropolis’ ever-evolving gastronomic landscape.
She affirms that, for the time being, she is maintaining a steady pace, although there are emerging schemes for expansion. Not only do nearly 200,000 Irish natives inhabit London, there has also been an increased interest in a fresh Irish export amongst the rest. Since time immemorial, the capital city has been enlivened by Guinness. Is there scope for additional spots?
“Absolutely, more sites will open up,” assures Moran, dedicating close to 18 hours each day to this endeavour. “I count myself fortunate. Broadway Market along with Kerb+ (which manages the Farringdon market) have shown tremendous backing. While we have seen a strong show of support from the Irish community, the Britons have been equally welcoming. Maybe they weren’t yet aware of what they had missed out on.
“I always had faith in its potential but the overwhelming popularity and emotional connect it has developed has truly been beyond my expectations. It has been truly touching.
“When we ran out of our product the first time, there was resounding applause. People were lining up and had to leave empty-handed, but they congratulated us saying, ‘Good show, well deserved.’ Hence, we’re extremely pleased and delighted that everyone, irrespective of whether they are of Irish origin or not, warmly welcomed this endeavor. London is a city with people from all walks of life. While it may sound overly sentimentalist, it’s indeed wonderful to offer them a flavour of their homeland.”