It is no longer a novelty to witness women shining in the field of wine. Once upon a time, this territory was overrun by men but it’s now commonplace to encounter female sommeliers. Early in her career, Maria Pelonero, the lady sommelier at Rinuccini in Kilkenny, often encountered surprised reactions from patrons owing to her professional choice but asserts that such responses have gradually diminished.
Hailing from Piemonte, Italy, Pelonero committed to studying hospitality and won a scholarship to further her studies in Ireland, a decision that led her to remain in the country a decade later. Her initial internship at Rinuccini transformed into a permanent assignment that lasted two years. Thereafter, she moved to Mount Juliet and her interest in wine bloomed. She successfully accomplished the WSET (Wine and Spirit Education Trust) Level 3 examination, which paved the way for her position as the sommelier at the distinguished one-Michelin-star Lady Helen Restaurant.
Eventually, Pelonero resumed her position at Rinuccini, drawn by the restaurant’s comprehensive selection of Italian wines. She pursued the WSET diploma in wine – a demanding two-year course that incorporates various tasting and theory exams – and excelled in her final exams the previous year. During her studies, she encountered Sinead McCarthy, a fellow sommelier at Hawksmoor, Dublin, who likewise graduated the previous year. Both women hold mutual respect and admiration for each other’s talents in the field.
Juggling the demands of full-time employment along with studying is an immense challenge that Pelonero and McCarthy overcame through mutual support and camaraderie. The encouragement they received from their respective companies played a crucial role. Simultaneously, McCarthy held the position of assistant sommelier at Volpe Nera, after having worked alongside Barbara Boyle, a recognised Master of Wine, at Wine Mason.
McCarthy acknowledges the immense support from Barbara, maintaining regular correspondence, especially concerning the Master of Wine credentials. She is anticipating to join an upcoming introductory course in Rheinhessen in April. Globally, only 417 individuals possess the esteemed Master of Wine qualification, and five out of Ireland’s eight Masters of Wine are female.
McCarthy credits her rising interest in wine to the influential female figures in the industry. Harriet Tindal, a Master of Wine, was her mentor during her Level 3 certification studies. Moreover, working alongside Julie Dupouy at Chapter One significantly influenced her. Dupouy, a native of Agen, southwest France, was esteemed as the third-best sommelier globally in 2016, representing Ireland and the Irish Guild of Sommeliers.
While at Chapter One, Dupouy conducted periodic wine training for the staff, inspiring McCarthy to pursue her studies for the diploma. McCarthy praises Dupouy for her profound knowledge and eloquence when discussing wine, kindling her motivation to advance her wine knowledge. According to her, the strong presence of influential women in the industry has never given her a feeling of being undermined as compared to her male counterparts.
In 2020, Dupouy ascended to the presidency of the Irish Guild of Sommeliers, handing over the mantle in 2021 to Morgan VanderKamer. VanderKamer, a Canadian-born sommelier and co-owner of Union Wine Bar & Restaurant in Waterford, started her studies for the WSET exams while residing in Vancouver. A decade back, she relocated to Ireland from London and her ingenious wine list at Stanley’s wine bar, now defunct, brought her into the limelight in Dublin.
VanderKamer asserts that, in addition to shifting attitudes towards women in this profession, patrons have also improved their grasp of the sommelier’s role. “People are visiting dining establishments and are thrilled to discover a sommelier at hand, and this is not limited to Michelin-starred locations,” she comments, “Since grape-cultivation isn’t inherent in Irish culture, it revolves around pairing food and wine efficiently.”
When VanderKamer initially ventured into the industry in Ireland, it was predominantly men’s territory. “Women primarily operated behind the scenes,” she reveals. “A handful of restaurants employed sommeliers, but women were scarcely part of it. There were ample female waitstaff and directors, among other roles. Even in today’s time, within the restaurant, customers still predictively expect Morgan to be a man since I oversee the wine programme. I’m unsure if it’s just my name making them believe so, but I can sense an increasing equilibrium. Women are beginning to be more visible on the floor and effectively embodying that role.”
Also, wine has undergone an image makeover recently. While traditionally, wine was the luxury of those who owned cellars and the financial capacity to buy Bordeaux and Burgundy by the case, the advent of the natural wine mania has infused fresh vigour into the environment. Isabelle Legeron, a French Wine Master and founder of Raw Wine, has advocated for small-batch, low-interference wines crafted by small-scale producers using organic farming methodologies, which has struck a chord with young alcohol consumers who are keen to know not just what’s in their glass, but also the narrative behind it.
[ Gen Z and millennials are sipping wine like adults, while their parents are imbibing akin to adolescents.]
Katie Seward, the co-proprietor and wine expert at Frank’s wine bar in Dublin’s Camden Street, has experienced a remarkable career transition. Initially starting as a waitress in Cork while studying fine arts, she found herself drawn towards the restaurant industry. After moving to France and working at multiple eateries, she returned to Ireland and joined Chapter One. Her move to Forest Avenue and subsequent promotion to the sommelier position at Forest & Marcy sparked industry-wide recognition. This was followed by her time at Loose Canon and an immersion into London’s dynamic natural wine milieu. Utilising these experiences, she designed the wine programmes for Note and Frank’s in Dublin, with the latter featuring a list of 200 rotating wines available by the glass. Rather than overwhelming customers, she believes in helping them discover their preferred tastes.
Similar to Seward, Maire McHugh, the wine expert at Potager in Skerries, has a penchant for petite, artisan winemakers. Her extensive wine menu includes many organic and biodynamically produced wines, a significant proportion of which are available by the glass. Despite her background in fashion buying, McHugh stumbled into the world of wines. After finishing her degree, she returned to Fermanagh, ventured into hospitality, then discovered the vibrant oenophile culture in Australia. Back in Ireland, she prepared for the WSET exams and ultimately took on the role of assistant sommelier at The K Club.
McHugh credits her fortuitous entry into the industry to Lisa O’Doherty, the sommelier at The K Club, who opened doors for her into wine tastings and provided endless support. She has now been at Potager for three and a half years, continuing to enjoy the support of the owners in her diploma studies set to finish this year.
Introducing an innovative angle to Dublin’s wine scene, Ngozi Elobuike orchestrated the launch of a wine club called Hi Spirits, a year ago. It specialises in wines and beverages produced by Black-owned businesses. For Elobuike, every event is an opportunity to create a comprehensive cultural exposure. The recent Tastemakers event unfolded at the Glasshouse cocktail bar, a newly-established venue. This event successfully amalgamated Afrobeat, fashion, and art, accompanied by food and drink pairings of African, Caribbean, and South American spirits.
The role of a sommelier is rewarding and can pave the way to diverse paths. Dupouy, once a sommelier, has represented Champagne houses of LVMH as their brand ambassador for a period of nine years. She further enriched her profile by crafting an educational platform known as SommNinja. She has been instrumental in leading several drink initiatives, involving Cognac, sake and a non-alcoholic sparkling tea, which is slated for a future US launch.
In an interesting twist, she has been assisting a Finnish start-up in creating a sommelier AI, concentrating on food and wine pairs. Tesco incorporated it during the Christmas season, and several European stores are considering joining this AI-driven revolution. It seems to have brought Dupouy’s career journey to an interesting turn.