Several years back, while traversing the tracks of Ireland, we happened upon Anja, a roving harper. She elucidated the difference between a harper and a harpist, indicating that harpists perform in spaces specifically meant for music, while a harper, with their harp strapped to their back, roams the countryside, playing wherever possible. Any semblance of a schedule or targets does not suit a harper – we liken this free-spirited way to our cycling tendencies.
We would describe ourselves as more akin to those who simply enjoy cycling, not necessarily cyclists. We don’t sport colourful Lycra, we’ve never participated in a cycling race, we generally ignore time and how much we’ve ascended on our daily ride. Our focus when cycling is more on the shared experience of the journey, not the destination.
Our idol, the adventurous cyclist and travel writer, Dervla Murphy, undertook a journey pedalling from Lismore, County Waterford in 1963 to India on a simple, gearless bicycle, sensibly shod and with trousers secured into her socks. Murphy exemplifies cycling as O’Carolan does the harp.
As passionate cyclers, we have ventured across 17 foreign borders. Come next spring, we’ll kick-start our biggest adventure yet: cycling globally. We have been orchestrating this sojourn for four years, funded by the renovation and sale of two double-decker bus tiny homes, with one named after our heroine Dervla.
This summer, we’re retracing some of our beloved Irish routes before embarking on the next spring’s ultimate ride. We have curated five routes to cater to all skill levels. All you require is a working bicycle, a packed meal, a raincoat with some sunscreen in the pocket and a towel. Ready your trousers into your socks, mount your bicycle, and off we embark.
The Malin Northern Loop is a good start if you’re in Culdaff on the Inishowen peninsula in County Donegal, providing the gratification of reaching Ireland’s northernmost point, albeit hilly, in a manageable 51km stretch.
Distance: 51km
Elevation: 534m.
Altering your course to Ross Head and the significant Second World War “Eire 81″ marker gives an added distance of 5.6 km, or you could involve sections or the entirety of the Inishowen 100 for a more formidable task.
Beginning from the sandy beaches of Culdaff, journey through the Culdaff Village and take the road to Glengad. Past the Portaleen Pier, a right turn will have you at a Y intersection, leading 15 km to Malin Head. At Mullins Shop at Bree Lower, turn right and follow the signs towards Malin Beg. After journeying 1.85 km, a sharp detour downwards offers an opportunity to discover the small yet beautiful Wee House of Malin, situated amidst a scenic rocky bay. Get back to the main route towards Malin Head, and take a left on the R242, leading to the Malin Head. Continue onwards on the R242 towards Umgall, after passing Malin Head. At Malin Village, continue on the R243 and adhere to the signs leading back to Culdaff.
The personal favourite part of Ellie’s cycling journey was not the expansive beauty of Malin Head, but rather the stretch from Umgall to the Moss Road venturing into Malin Village. A thrilling descent past rugged landscapes, offering views of the gently undulating grassy dunes and enchanting golden sands of the Five Finger Strand deserves special mention.
Considering the prevailing winds, likely headwinds might be present en route to Malin Head. However, these winds might prove favourable on the return, especially after tackling the hilly sections of the route. Keeping informed with the weather forecast prior to planning this cycle is advised as the route could be unpleasant in the case of strong winds.
Culdaff beach is a recommendable starting and ending point of this tour: it boasts coffee stalls and lavatories, along with portable sauna facilities that could be ideal for relieving post-cycle fatigue. Carry your swimming attire for a refreshing swim at the close of your cycle.
It’s common to engage in lengthy conversations at any given stopping point around our isle, with Donegal seemingly doing it with some added charm. It appears as if the locals are genuinely thrilled by your presence. Ellie postulates their eagerness springs from rural residents’ desire to diversify their gene pool, but in my opinion, the people we meet in Donegal are simply markedly more amicable than those in other counties.
We’ve traversed our predetermined path thrice, but during this latest jaunt, we unveiled the secret of the Wee House of Malin – it’s not a dwelling, rather a church possessing a reclusive’s cavern and a well tucked away behind it. There’s a personal hypothesis I have on Ireland’s intricate topography: the more thorough your gaze, the more you discover. Exploring each lane, strolling each rustic pathway, scaling each hillock – it’d require multiple lifetimes to complete. New discoveries await at every turn. The spectacular scenery that presents itself as you descend towards Malin Beg happens to be the highlight of this course for me.
The Doo Lough Loop course, a stunning 64km circuit in County Mayo, takes you across the mesmerising Sheeffry Pass, beyond the Doo Lough Famine memorial, and lies beneath the imposing shadow of Croagh Patrick.
Details:
Distance: 64km
Elevation: 421m
Alternative routes: Initiating the loop in Westport rather than Aughavale cemetery tacks an additional 7km onto the journey. Veering onto the R378 at Cregganbaun after Doo Lough opens up an extra 14km stretch, leading you past the remarkable Clapper Bridge of Bunlahinch. Sticking to the N59 at Liscarney to indulge in the sights of Leenane, the stunning Aasleagh Falls, Killary Fjord, and Delphi lengthens the journey by an extra 10km.
Instructions: Begin your journey at Aughavale Cemetery, located 3km from Westport en route to Louisburgh. Make an immediate left turn by the cemetery, following a cycle path marked for Killary Harbour. Continue to track the signs indicating Killary cycle path until you reach Brackloon woods. Proceed straight when you see the Owenwee Kennels sign, connecting with the N59 road for about 1.7km. Next, make a right turn onto the L1824 road at the Drummin and Sheeffry Pass sign. The L1824 links with the R335 at Doo Lough, where you have to make a right turn. Keep following the R335 route through Louisburgh back to Westport and Aughavale.
Mark comments:
The ride over Sheeffry Pass and alongside Doo Lough wasn’t solely a sight for sore eyes. The last time we embarked on this cycling adventure, honeysuckles were in full bloom, and their delightful aroma mingled with the lingering scent of turf smoke from fires that were still smouldering in midsummer. The descent down the mountain offers a companionship with a lively river beside you, bubbling, tumbling, and splashing along the hill as you continue your journey downhill. You can only experience these unique smells and the sound of the course when travelling by bicycle.
Doo Lough – or the ‘dark lake’ – is fraught with a moody grandeur and an impressive history. In March 1849, a group of 600 famished individuals trekked 12 miles in adverse weather conditions from Louisburgh to Delphi House. Their objective was to appeal to their landlord, the Inspector of the Poor Law, and a Board of Guardians member, all of whom resided there. This needy crowd was kept waiting upon arrival due to their intended benefactors having lunch. They were ultimately dismissed, making the long journey back to Louisburgh without any aid. The reported death toll from starvation during this trek is suggested to be around 400. Stories tell of discovering bodies by the road, with grass stuffed in their mouths. In spite of its breathtaking allure, there is a distinct somber tone to this leg of the journey.
Ellie adds:
The trail loop embodies everything that I love. The panoramic landscape ranges from vibrant green forested hills and stony mountain brooks, to stark marshlands dotted with dual puffs of marsh cotton and roaming sheep. It’s truly a sight to behold. The Sheeffry passage offers all the pleasures typical to any mountain pass but is notably manageable with no gruelling zigzag paths. The scenic vistas of Tawnyard Lough from the pause point on the L1824 during descent are beyond compare on a cloudless summer afternoon.
The path also teems with cultural significance including a mandatory halt at the Doo Lough famine commemoration, the imposing Croagh Patrick teeming with ceaseless pilgrims, and the distinctly marked Clew Bay Archaeological Trail scattered throughout. The only potential drawback may be the 12km stretch parallel to the R335 from Louisburgh to Murrisk, where the road could be busy and fast-paced. Almost the entire remainder of the journey is on extremely tranquil lanes and from Murrisk, a partially finished greenway ushers you the final 6km back to the turn-off to Aughavale.
Carrick-on-Suir Blueway
This straight, paved pathway running along the River Suir between Carrick-on-Suir and Clonmel in Co Tipperary is level and totally segregated from roads, thus making it a perfect placid excursion.
Length: 40km
Rise: 19m
Detours: For a lengthier and more demanding trail, depart the Blueway at Kilsheelan and pursue the R706 to a T-intersection where the right route directs you to Killusty. Starting from Killusty, there’s a ring that leads you on a 42km voyage around the base of Slievenamon, through Kilcash and back to Kilsheelan.
Guide: Locate a parking slot near Seán Healy Park in Carrick-on-Suir. Standing in front of the park with the river ahead, the entry to the Blueway is in the right corner. From this point, the paved path continues along the river completely off-road all the way to Clonmel.
According to Mark:”
The United Kingdom is graced with some fantastic green paths throughout. Riding from Tramore passing by Dungarvan and on to Waterford via the Copper Coast road is a personal favourite, but even then, there’s a distinct charm to the serene Carrick-on-Suir Blueway as it meanders along the Suir River.
You may spot jumping fish, hunting herons and sunbathing cormorants, and if you pay close attention, you may see the vibrant plumage of a kingfisher or spot an otter gracefully swimming, although beware: these otters native to Tipperary can be tricky. The path goes through Bulmers orchards, where some of the most content sheep in Ireland enjoy the shade of apple trees.
A delightful juxtaposition is evident with the vivid, albeit untidy fishermen’s huts by the river and the majestic castles such as Kilsheelan on either side. Remain vigilant for Gurteen Castle across the river just after Kilsheelan bridge.
It is a point of beauty and rarity to be able to enjoy a 40km bike trail off the beaten path, following one of Ireland’s grandest rivers – the Subir Blueway offers just that. However, be advised the path can be impassable in winter and spring due to flooding, hence it is best experienced during a summer evening.
The silence, the natural scenery, the rolling wheat fields, the absence of cars and intersections – all add up to make this ride extraordinarily tranquil. It’s quite safe for children of any age, and even small children would find the flat terrain easy. Families could consider starting at Kilsheelan, or opting for a shorter ride from Clonmel or Carrick.
Next is the Healy and Caha Loop, located in the counties Cork and Kerry. Its captivating view of Bantry Bay and Kenmare are just as delightful as its challenging climbs. The complete loop measures 80km and ascends up to 922m.
Alternate Routes: By taking a right turn off the R571, roughly 6km before reaching Kenmare, as opposed to proceeding directly via the N71, one can save 7km in travel distance. This alternate route offers a scenic journey past the charming Dromoghty Lough, although it does introduce an additional incline.
Instructions: Begin at Glengarriff, then follow signs leading to Castletownbere and the Ring of Beara. After passing Adrigole, make a right towards the Healy Pass. On reaching the Sibín Bridge in Lauragh, turn right onto the R571. Continue along the R571 until just before Kenmare, at which point you make a right onto the N71. Follow this route up the Caha Pass and return to your starting point.
Ellie’s Comment:
I am completely captivated by this stunning cycling route. The view from atop the Healy Pass, overlooking the Kingdom and Glanmore Lake, is indescribably beautiful. I have completed this loop from both directions and prefer bravely tackling the steeper slopes and exciting bends of the Healy Pass first. This leaves the gentler but more extended climb of the Caha Pass until the end. The challenge concludes with a thrilling 10km descent, offering sights of Barley Lake and Bantry Bay, before reaching Glengarriff. Be mindful of an unexpected additional climb after the Healy Pass, between Lauragh and Kenmare. Although less significant than the previous climbs, it nevertheless requires effort. The ride may be physically demanding but the rewards mirror the struggle, much like life.
Mark’s Remark:
This route has a special place in our hearts. This was one of the first routes Ellie and I ventured on, a decade ago when we first met. I can vividly remember gasping out my mobile phone pin halfway up the Healy Pass, convinced I was on the verge of a heart attack and that my relatives would soon need to recover me. Thankfully, I was wrong. Over the years, I’ve developed an unexpected fondness for mountain cycling. I wonder whether they symbolise life or whether the euphoria of cycling up and down mountains resonates with the former party enthusiast in me.
Healy Pass has always been a tremendous favourite of mine. It’s quintessentially Irish, marked by intricate bends that lead all the way to the summit with its symbolic cross. During our recent venture there, we cycled uphill, crooning ‘Whiskey in the Jar’ in honour of Cork and Kerry. Along our journey, we crossed paths with two Japanese travelers, who outpaced us. Nevertheless, reaching the summit and witnessing the magnificent panoramic view of The Kingdom made it all worthwhile, filling us with adrenaline and joy.
The loop connecting the Nore and the Barrow
This route straddles two rivers, encompasses three counties, navigates four picturesque villages, and is decorated with visually stunning landscapes throughout its 60km length. The trail reaches an altitude of 610m and has an optional detour—a 5km round journey starting from Thomastown along R448, which can lead to the incredible ruins of Jerpoint Abbey, originating from the 12th century.
To follow this course, you have to park in Thomastown and continue on R700, past Inistioge, before crossing the Garrett Bridge near New Ross. Taking a left turn post the bridge and another towards R729 guides you towards St Mullins, indicated by the signage. Further on, a left at St Brendan’s church and a right ascension along the riverbank, prominently marked as part of the Barrow Way, will lead you onwards. From Graiguenamanagh, the journey back to Thomastown is through R703.
As Ellie notes:
Many of our much-loved cycling routes are positioned in the untamed wilderness. Consequently, this loop, stretching primarily across gentle farmland and a handful of forests, offers a pleasant change. Both Inistioge and St Mullins make for fantastic stopovers, with St Mullins, in particular, being an incredible historical site worth investigating. Folklore maintains that the primary chapel, the chosen homestead of St Molaing, was the creation of Gobán Saor, a mystical itinerant stonemason. Honouring these legends, a sculpture commemorates the tale of Mad Sweeney, an antique monarch of Dalriada infamous for losing his sanity in combat and aimlessly roaming Ireland before meeting his end at St Mullins.
Traversing a stretch of eight kilometres on the Barrow Way, between St Mullins and Graiguenamanagh, cyclists and pedestrians alike are treated to spectacular views of historic lockhouses on an unpaved but flat path. In the past, this beautiful landscape has been witness to disputes, mainly involving local residents protesting against the transformation of this former tow path into a paved one. Therefore, it’s key that cyclists display courtesy, yield to pedestrians, and avoid reckless speeding or monopolising the path.
Graiguenamanagh offers an inviting swimming spot that’s monitored by life guards during the summer period. It boasts an ample riverbank that is perfect for organising picnics.
According to Mark, this particular journey is the most splendid among the five that he has experienced. The route showcases quaint, picturesque towns that exiled individuals might imagine when pining for the old country. Inistioge is such a picturesque town that it even has its own IMDB page.
The journey from St Mullins to Graiguenmanagh along the traditional towpath captivates Mark. It is essentially a grass pathway that parallels the old industrial towpath, once heavily used by horses towing barges and narrowboats. Nowadays, cyclists and pedestrians have to strike a balance as they navigate either side of this lush, rugged route, presenting quite a contrast from the industrial setting of its halcyon days, peppered with horse waste, coal slack, ruthless river pirates, and rats. It may be more serene now, but arguably it was more thrilling back then.
Cycling can get challenging, especially when rain makes the terrain marshy and slippery. Avoiding such conditions is better, but as a seasoned Irish woman shared her wisdom in Glengarriff woods, not letting rain deter you from activities is part of the Irish spirit.
Follow Ellie’s and Mark’s cycling journeys via spokeyokes.substack.com.