While the favourite beverages and preferred drinking spots may vary across time, alcohol remains a vital part of Irish social and cultural fabric, even among those who abstain or drink conservatively. We have conducted conversations with various Irish individuals on their drinking habits. We also consulted public health representatives and experts from the industry to discuss the evolution of drinking traditions.
Consider the case of a teetotaler like Grace Watson, a first-year student at UCD. Drinking is quite prevalent among her friends, but she prefers not to partake. Watson has tasted alcohol before, particularly cocktails, but never found it appealing. Her decision to abstain from alcohol is not driven by any traumatic experience but a personal choice.
Her non-drinking decision piques the curiosity of her peers who often ask if there’s a specific reason for her abstinence. Watson always clarifies that her decision is personal and needs no particular rationale. This explanation usually suffices to end the interrogation. Watson’s older sibling has embraced drinking only at a later age which makes her parents find her choice normal. It even reduces her mother’s concerns when she heads out.
During college social events, where alcohol is quite central, Watson’s declaration of being a non-drinker is usually misinterpreted as abstinence for that specific event. She vehemently defends her decisions to stay sober during these events, taking as much joy in them as her drinking peers. She never finds her sobriety unsettling even though she is acutely aware that it may make others feel uncomfortable.
She enjoys being the sober one in the group, observing the uninhibited behaviours of her friends which she finds quite amusing. Watson also appreciates the fact that she doesn’t suffer from hangovers and manages to save a significant amount of money by not drinking, especially when she sees her friends grappling with post-party blues.
Meanwhile, shifting trends in alcohol consumption seem to be leaning towards ‘moderation’ and ‘premiumisation’.
The appearance of lively post-work chatter on Dublin city sidewalks outside popular pubs may seem unchanged, but life has drastically transformed after the initial Covid-19 pandemic lockdown that occurred four years ago.
It’s currently a Thursday night, a day that has seemingly replaced Friday as the new start to the weekend. Many employees who enjoy the flexibility of working from anywhere opt to operate from home on the last day of the week. This new work week structure means their typical end-of-week bonding with colleagues precedes logging on to their laptops the following morning, rather than expecting a relaxing Saturday sleep in.
These are manifestations of social trends such as the move towards an “out early, home early” approach to socialising, alongside “moderation” and “premiumisation”. As life factors and living expenses negatively affect the frequency of nights out, people desire quality experiences when they do decide to go out.
Drinking alcohol is a cherished part of Irish “craic”. Both on vibrant nights out and during friendly home gatherings, not many give thought to the sombre consequences of alcohol – death, disease, violence and traumatic childhood experiences. A detailed demographic overview of alcohol consumption in Ireland, issued by the Health Research Board (HRB), dissects information around what, where, and how much individuals are drinking, as well as its outcomes. It’s currently unclear to what extent these behavioural changes are due to the pandemic effects or the enforcement of the notable Public Health (Alcohol) Act 2018, which, amongst other rules, instituted minimum unit pricing in 2022.
The study, titled Alcohol: Availability, Affordability, Related Harm and Policy in Ireland, unveils that we, as a unified population, are drinking less. The average adult (or individual over the age of 15) consumed 9.9 litres of pure alcohol in 2023, a decrease from 10.2 litres the year prior, and under the pre-pandemic levels of 10.8 litres in 2019. Contrary to the widespread belief that people were turning to alcohol to manage pandemic-induced anxiety, stress and ennui, only 13 per cent of surveyed individuals in 2021 reported increased drinking, while almost half said their consumption had dwindled.
Dr Sheila Gilheany, head of Alcohol Action Ireland, recognises positive indications of transformation within Ireland’s long-existing problematic association with alcohol, however, she emphasises that the falling rates of alcohol consumption per person have been largely influenced by the increasing portion of the population choosing non-alcoholic lifestyles. If the 30 per cent of non-drinkers are removed from the calculations, we see an alarming average, with every drinker consuming annually 284 cans of beer, 12 bottles of spirits, 43 bottles of wine, and 35 cans of cider.
The principal locations of alcohol consumption extend beyond pubs and clubs, with the majority consuming alcohol in their personal or someone else’s private space. Around 2.5 per cent of a household’s total expenditure can be attributed to alcohol, with a larger portion of the amount expended on at-home drinking rather than at licensed establishments. In a recent survey conducted in 2022, locations cited were one’s own home with a 44 per cent representation, followed by pubs at 30 per cent, restaurants, hotels or cafes at 13 per cent and finally, someone else’s house at 10 per cent.
Dublin City University student, Jamie Mac Ghiolla Bháin, who first experienced alcohol at the age of 15 while babysitting, shares that indoor drinking tends to encourage more alcohol consumption, primarily due to its cost-effectiveness. In his early interaction with alcohol, adult sanction was always present. The initiation of what he terms as ‘proper drinking’ only began post his Leaving Cert. The quantity of his alcohol intake heavily depends on the location and occasion, with him labelling himself as a ‘heavyweight’ drinker when compared with his peers. He claims to be capable of consuming substantial amounts without feeling drunk, recalling instances of handling over 12 pints without feeling the effects intensely. His approach to drinking is consistent, relying on pints at pubs, spirits at clubs, and wines at home, only mixing the types when hopping between a pub and a club or at student parties.
His consumption of alcohol is directly tied to the cost. He’s known to get his beer from the North and transport it over the Border to save money. Drinking at home is much less expensive, leading him to consume more.
Mac Ghiolla Bháin admits his drinking habits have reduced in comparison to the past. He is increasingly witnessing the use of “weed vapes” among his fellow students, however, he still insists alcohol is an integral component of the student “culture”.
Mac Ghiolla Bháin doesn’t express concern over his alcohol intake, stating he’s mindful about drinking responsibly. However, he does regret how he squandered his money on alcohol during the last summer.
The bar-owners are noticing growing challenges to bring customers in. Solutions like superior dining options, luxurious cocktails or specially designed entertainment are being considered. The perpetually evolving “on” trade has been under major changes post-Covid, says Donall O’Keeffe, leader of the Licensed Vintners’ Association, which accounts for Dublin’s pub-owners. The shift he notes is the long-term drop in alcohol consumption spanning over two decades, along with an increasing trend of purchases moving from bars to off-licenses.
O’Keeffe insists this trend is permanent, prompted by the alteration in lifestyle choices and reduced drinking out on weeknights. But Saturdays notably outperform the rest of the week. He credits their resilience to the harshest and lengthiest lockdown in Europe, stating that it reawakened people’s passion for bars. This has attracted an entirely new customer base in their 20s that was absent pre-Covid. Post-lockdown, bars have seen a robust rebound and are enjoying thriving business.
As consumers’ habits shift, they are setting their own priorities in terms of their patronage, notes O’Keeffe. Some choose establishments based on their food offerings, while others consider late-night urban bars a better proposition. Traditional pubs, often bereft of food services, work hard to create an ‘authentic’ experience through superior service from their staff. Business in the capital also significantly benefits from major events like concerts and sports, along with conferences and the tourism industry. Consequently, even amidst a slight dip in business thus far, bars in Dublin are maintaining a robust performance, being stronger than other regions.
Contrarily, the outlook for rural publicans by Pat Crotty from the Vintners Federation of Ireland is not as optimistic. Small-scale bar proprietors are grappling with post-pandemic bottlenecks such as workforce shortages. Other challenges include transporting clients to and from the pub due to the dearth of taxi services. Crotty mentions couples who own bars, who often have to make extra late-night trips to ensure their customers and staff return home safely, or risk their patronage. Trends indicating earlier departure times from bars are noticeable, as people resort to family for transportation, he observes.
The evolving customer behaviour, which favours ‘experience’, is challenging for small businesses which lack resources to update their establishment or provide additional amenities, like having a Sky TV subscription. Investment for such upgrades can be beyond what is manageable for most, adds Crotty.
Poet Jan Brierton is among those who now seldom indulge in drinking. Nowadays, except on her annual trip to France where she allows herself a panaché, a kind of beer shandy, she abstains from alcohol. She relates that her fondness for wine as a regular drink is primarily due to its sophistication and the comfort it provided while viewing TV series, often not keeping track of the amount. Her consumption notably rose during the initial lockdown period, she admits.
Not being able to remember details about a show she had watched the previous day was a wake-up call for her. The tipping point, however, came when she entered a shop with the intention of buying milk but left with a pint of milk, a bottle of white wine, and two bottles of cider for her husband. This acquisition was instinctive and thoughtless, which mirrored her drinking patterns. She describes it as an ‘unmindful type of drinking’. There weren’t any destructive, confrontational, or troublesome behaviours due to her drinking. The issue, for her, was the ingrained habit and the detached manner of her consumption.
She began by setting short-term objectives for herself. Over time, she questioned whether she would still relish concerts, festivals, and dancing sober and discovered that she did. She believes she’s ‘acquired more than [she’s] surrendered’. She appreciates the monetary savings and has noticed how alcohol can ‘numb’ emotions and sensations, and she recognised that she had used it to both dilute and intensify these feelings.
Although she had never been a fan of beer before, alcohol-free beer is now her preferred beverage. Prior to this, wine had made her feel decidedly more grown-up. “It simply appeared like a classy method to be getting intoxicated”, she argues.
The retailers of alcohol have seen changes too. From 2003 to 2021, there has been a notable 95% surge in “off” licenses, counterbalancing the 20% dip in pub licenses during the same duration. The majority of these licenses have been granted to grocery and convenience stores, according to Cathal McHugh, the chairman of the National Off-Licence Association, which champions independent, niche traders, who were allowed to operate as an ‘essential business’ during the lockdown.
Current circumstances are strenuous, with recent staff cost escalations inducing inflationary strain. Post-lockdown, McHugh observes people are consuming “lower quantities but higher quality” and “when they desire a superior product they continue to patronise us”.
The previous excessive drinker admits, ‘I didn’t want the children to see me hungover’.
Pat Reid confesses his mum was addicted to alcohol. He is convinced that contemporary child protection systems would have placed him and his brothers and sisters under protective care if they had to endure the similar scenarios they faced growing up. They received no professional assistance after these experiences, which he asserts resulted in “permanent damage” to his subsequent life.
It was in his home that he was introduced to alcohol at the tender age of 12 or 13. It was an attempt “to assist his sleep”, he provides clarity. To its credit, the neighbourhood pub was aware of his family’s history and held off serving him libations until he reached 19.
Their financial state at home was quite strained, forcing Reid to secure part-time employment. The wages were barely adequate. Consequently, his devotion to football and financial limitations meant that his consumption of alcohol was minimal during his early 20s. His mother’s demise tipped his life’s scales. She had deserted the family home three years prior to her death. Clearing out her flat posthumously, Reid calculates they stumbled upon “around 150 bottles of gin”.
The years immediately following his mother’s departure saw him descend into significant alcohol misuse. He recalls having a “mini breakdown” a year post her passing. He admits to “self-medication”, but with his sister’s aid, started regaining control of his life.
Reid asserts that he refrained from daily drinking, restricting binge drinking to weekends. He’s been a husband for 12 years, and his wife perceived him as an excessive drinker when they first encountered each other. He credits her “persistency” in staying by his side.
The arrival of his two daughters, one of whom had to combat serious health issues, heralded a transformation in his approach to drinking. He didn’t want the effects of a hangover to impact his parenting. Hence, three years ago he bid farewell to alcohol.
About two years ago, he suffered a “mental breakdown”, an event he attributes to the “accumulation of everything”. He now feels mentally healthier since his decision to abstain from alcohol. He is no longer reluctant in buying drinks for other people, a stark contrast to prior behaviour when he would avoid buying rounds so he could preserve funds for his own consumption. As for his current preference, a robust cup of tea suits him just fine.
He even muses about the changing attitude of patrons who now seem to value their comfort more than ever.
Noel Anderson, 41, manager of a number of several dining establishments in the heart of Dublin, including the Lemon and Duke and Little Lemon, The Bridge 1859 in Ballsbridge, and The Blackrock in south Dublin, which he co-runs with four ex-rugby international players, has noticed some shifts after the Covid-19 pandemic. Despite the resurgence of pub culture, he identifies lasting habits formed in the pandemic, such as a high demand for draught beer, which was hard to get during lockdown, and a preference for reserved seating, which people have become accustomed to.
In addition to standing and drinking a pint, people now have a strong urge for comfort and a desire to be seated. He mentions that people going out less often expect superior service, food, and are willing to splurge on finer wines and cocktails. Aspects that are ‘Instagram-worthy’ have become significant. Gin’s popularity has declined, and high-end tequila is becoming popular.
Anderson points out that younger generations are increasingly health-conscious, contributing to the spike in non-alcoholic product sales, which are now available on tap in certain pubs. According to Drinks Ireland data, the proportion of non-alcoholic beer in the market has surged from 0.4 per cent to 1.5 per cent between 2017 and 2021. As a father himself, Anderson also notes an awareness of having to be awake and active the next morning – driving kids to their sports and other activities.
Alcohol consumption, in Anderson’s view, is more event-centric, such as birthdays or weddings – occasions when people are more likely to ‘let their hair down’.
Will Agar, 40, who has recently become the owner of Fitzgerald’s of Sandycove in Co Dublin, after managing it for 17 years, also notes a shift towards a younger clientele post-pandemic. This change partially reflects older regulars moving away due to delayed reopening. Although he has introduced various craft beers, he has found older patrons accepting this change more, while younger patrons gravitate towards stout. To meet post-pandemic preferences and increase capacity, he is also planning for a beer garden.
The market for non-alcohol drinkers is also not to be ignored, as many believe they can still have a good time without alcohol.
Idris Jimoh, a 23-year-old accountant at Grant Thornton in Dublin, has largely avoided pressure from friends to drink alcohol, due to his faith and personal disposition. Furthermore, he admits that even if he wasn’t a Muslim, he would still choose not to indulge in alcohol, as he doesn’t understand the need for it to enjoy a good time. He is a frequent visitor of bars where he enjoys the company of his friends, music and the atmosphere, particularly in the student club nights organised by Seventeen Entertainment, a company he co-founded. Jimoh, who hails from Kilkenny but currently residing in Dublin, has made attempts to convey his stance on alcohol consumption to his mates but has eventually given up due to their unresponsiveness.
Based on a report from HRB, the drinking habits of individuals provide important insights into the scale of alcohol-related harm affecting a community. It appears that over half of the drinking population in Ireland fall under the “hazardous drinkers” category. This drinking style is notably prevalent among men and notably the younger ones. However, since 2010 there has been a noticeable decrease in this drinking pattern.
The report also stated that the average age at which children have their first taste of alcohol has increased from 15.6 to 16.6 years between 2002 and 2019. According to Dr Hugh Gallagher, an addiction expert who operates an HSE alcohol-specific scheme in north Dublin city and county, the early onset of alcohol consumption plays a significant role. Dr Gallagher, who also serves as the medical director of Smarmore Castle, a private rehabilitation clinic in Co Louth, observed a burgeoning trend of concurrent alcohol and cocaine abuse among the clinic’s patients, who are predominantly men in their 30s. The patients may blame cocaine for their admission, but they mostly acknowledge the need to address their drinking issue to achieve a lasting recovery.
The HRB report expressed concern about increased alcohol consumption among parents with children under 18 since the start of the pandemic compared to parents without underage children. Dr Gallagher implores parents to critically examine their drinking habits, not only for their well-being but also for the precedent they are setting for the younger generation.
The woman, let’s call her Claire, believes her spouse has an issue with drinking, although he insists it’s only a tool to handle stress. Both Claire and Dr. Sheila Gilheany are supportive of The Health Research Board’s belief that the upcoming 2022 Sale of Alcohol Bill is at odds with previous 2018 legislation to decrease alcohol accessibility. The newer bill may permit longer standard business hours from 10.30am to 12.30am all week, causing potential disagreement.
Pub owners posit that there will be minimal alteration to their present trading hours. However, the increased flexibility will be beneficial for those located near sporting arenas on Sundays. The most noticeable shift for the majority may be the removal of the expensive “special exemption orders” for late-night trading and the implementation of an annual permit allowing activity until 2.30 am.
Donall O’Keeffe mentioned the proposed 5am licences for nightclubs would predominantly cater to well-capitalised businesses able to efficiently manage these ventures. He stated that it would be advantageous for the city, remarking that not all attendees are keen on early departures.
Claire, in her late 50’s now, began consuming alcohol during her late teenage years. Throughout her 20’s, 30’s, and 40’s she used to socialise most weekends, consuming beer but relegating wine to mealtimes. As she and her partner aged, the tradition of drinking wine in the house took root, with her spouse also consuming beer. Slowly from only on weekends, Claire started drinking on Mondays, using the justification that it was ‘just after the weekend’. Shortly there was a drift to Thursdays too, explaining it as ‘almost the weekend’.
Claire confessed she can easily consume an entire bottle of wine per night, sometimes starting a second if her husband joins her. She finds discussing her alcohol consumption distressing, primarily because acknowledging it makes it tangible.
Claire often battles with feelings of guilt towards her drinking habits. However, observing others purchasing wine when she’s out shopping brings her a sense of reassurance. Despite being a regular drinker, she has never let her drinking interfere with her professional life. The presence of her teenage children is something she always keeps at the back of her mind – they witness their parents consuming alcohol quite frequently. Their lack of concern over her drinking pattern makes her somewhat complacent.
It’s common for Claire to wake up puzzled about the time she retired to bed, the prior night. Her drink routine is often an antidote to boredom, as she juggles various tasks around the house. She endeavors to postpone her first drink until it’s past 8pm. Her husband, on the other hand, begins consuming alcohol a little earlier at around 6:30pm. On Sundays, Claire might indulge as early as 5pm. The frequency of her drinking bouts averages to around four to five times per week.
The widely accepted notion of “wine o’clock” and its portrayal as normality is received as a joke by Claire. Though she doesn’t indulge in any inappropriate activities whilst drunk, she carries a sense of remorse, feeling that she shouldn’t be drinking, and acknowledging that she and her husband may be drinking too frequently. The pandemic has only further exaggerated the situation, with video calls accompanied by wine becoming a habitual form of socializing.
Claire has made the decision to attempt to cease her alcohol consumption this week. She jested, “But sure, we’ll see how it progresses. Today is merely Thursday,” she added, referring to our day of conversation.