Speaking from a hotel lobby in Derry, Daniel Montgomery, an experienced driver and tour guide for Paddywagon Tours, explained the dynamic nature of his role, claiming, “We reshuffle the pack frequently, which infuses new vigour.” Paddywagon Tours, known for its conspicuous lime-green buses adorned with a cheery leprechaun, frequently crisscross the country.
Before my chat with Montgomery, I wasn’t fully aware of the complexities that makeup Paddywagon tours. What appears as a single five-, six-, or eight-day tour on the website, in reality, consists of smaller components. The length of stay varies among passengers; some stay on for the entire tour, while others participate for a mere three days. The driver-guides’ shifts follow a similar pattern. Montgomery, for example, picked up the mantle from a colleague in Belfast, who had led the group from Dublin.
So, who will be travelling with us on the next leg of the tour to Galway? Montgomery checks his ever-rotating passenger list. “There are two visitors from China, one from Taiwan, two from Los Angeles, two from Canada, two from Cork, two from Michigan, and one from Tasmania. A few of these guests will be leaving us tomorrow in Galway.”
Paddywagon’s peak season generally commences around Saint Patrick’s Day and continues until October. “Our passenger demographic is diverse, covering a wide range of ages and backgrounds,” he adds. In the beginning, Paddywagon principally attracted large groups of backpackers who opted for more affordable accommodation like hostels. While budget options are still available, it’s observed that most passengers currently prefer a more plush stay. That evening, we were booked at the Holiday Inn Express, where Montgomery often stays, as recognised by the warm greetings he received from the front desk staff.
Montgomery sheds light on the dual responsibility of being both a driver and a guide, admitting that although he doesn’t have to split his tips, not everyone tips. He justifies this as a consequence of Ireland being a costly destination that offers less pocket change for travellers.
Why do clients select Paddywagon tours in Ireland? According to Montgomery, ancestral connections are a less common motivation. The primary incentives are the desire for a vacation, availability of inexpensive flights to Ireland, and the appealing tour schedules that offer exposure to a wide range of locales. Montgomery indicates that a restricted visit to a single location such as the Burren for an extended period would not be well received.
Departing Derry for Galway at 8.30am via Strandhill in Co Sligo marks the third of a six-day journey for those who undertake the entire tour. Dingle and Killarney, Co Kerry, serve as the destinations for the subsequent two overnight stays. Despite the packed itinerary, risks of disappointment await for those desiring to encounter “Fungi the dolphin”, Dingle’s popular marine inhabitant that features on the tour’s fifth-day online itinerary.
The first-time Ireland visitors, Sylvia La Roche and Roch De Roy, share a lifelong friendship of 40 years that began while working in the same police department and bonding over Friday beers. Italy, Spain, Portugal, Hong Kong, France, Taiwan, and Hawaii are just a few of the several destinations the pair has journeyed to together. De Roy’s persuasion took three years for this trip to Ireland, La Roche revealed.
Their Belfast experience had a profound impact, specifically seeing the city’s well-known peace wall, a remnant of the Troubles that still stands, which separates the Falls Road’s nationalist and Shankill Road’s unionist. Following their visit, the friends could better appreciate their freedom as residents, says La Roche.
“First-time visitors in Ireland enjoy a trip of a lifetime. Upon entering Co Donegal from Northern Ireland’s boundary, they notice the lack of a sign welcoming them to the Republic of Ireland, hinting at the territorial nature of the inhabitants, offered by Montgomery, the bus guide.
Grianán of Aileach, a stunning circular fort – referred to as “the gateway to an alternate universe” by Montgomery – is our first stop. We are greeted by unobstructed views, sunshine, and serenity as the first busload of tourists, who savour the delightful experience of having the location to themselves.
Krissy Yang, a Taiwan-based mother of two, is seen capturing memories atop the fort. Having left her children at home, she embarked on a two-week solo journey to Europe. Her decision to visit Ireland, despite previous deterring assertions about its precarious situation and reputed lack of Asian hospitality, was influenced by the difficulty to navigate and learn about European cities with small children in tow. In 2008, she had missed the chance to visit Ireland during her time studying in London.
Yang spent a few solitary days in Dublin before joining the Paddywagon tour and was intrigued by Dublin’s modern structures, attributing the urban renewal to past conflicts. She finds the choice of a contemporary building unusual for the Epic, The Irish Emigration Museum, which she visited.
Upon returning to the already-running bus, cut short by Montgomery’s strict timetable, Yang and I found ourselves the last to board. We had unknowingly beaten a surge of other tour buses by just minutes, serendipitously enjoying unruffled tranquility before the influx of tourists.
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A brief photo pause is scheduled at the breathtaking Barnesmore Gap. As we edge nearer to the Leitrim border, Montgomery announces his plans to play some tunes. “As we bid farewell to Co Donegal, I find it fitting to fill our ears with the melodies of a man born in Donegal, a man whose fame never truly matched his talent: Rory Gallagher. Musicians consider him as one of their own. Hendrix was once asked what it felt like to be the world’s best guitarist. His response? ‘Ask Rory Gallagher that question.’” An audible delight permeates the bus as the sound of Out on the Western Plain fills the air, prompting passengers like Yang, seated behind me, to look up Gallagher online.
In Co Sligo’s Strandhill, the wind’s gusts whip through my notebook’s pages as the waves batter against the shore. This spot is our lunch halt. Without any resistance, people are drawn towards the oceanfront, hypnotically transfixed by the pulsating waves.
Mercedes and Agnes Zapata are a mother and daughter duo from Los Angeles. “Mom had more knowledge about Ireland than I did, before we embarked on this journey,” Agnes admits. The only piece of Irish history she was aware of was the Bloody Sunday conflict. Belfast’s art as a form of rebellion, and Derry’s Bogside – the outdoor mural museum depicting resistance and the longing for peace – fascinated her. Mercedes likens Belfast’s aura to the rougher south LA neighbourhoods, citing resemblances to a working-class society.
Ed and Amanda Potchen, a Michigander couple, are relishing their ice creams. Ireland is new to Ed. However, Amanda, an alumna of UCD, wanted to share her fond memories of Galway and of other parts of Ireland with him. The country has been their home for the past ten days. Amanda’s return trip after several years was marked by a shocking observation: “I didn’t expect to witness so many homeless people,” she expresses.
“She dreams of securing employment in Galway and envisages them relocating there for a period. “Ed is into technology, so surely he can find employment there. My mother paid me a visit when I was pursuing my education in Dublin, she understands why I have the desire to remain here, yet the whole family is located in Michigan, she would prefer if we would continue living there.”
There’s another factor that’s preventing them from making a possible shift to Ireland. To be precise, there are three reasons: Appa, Momo, and Izumi, named after characters from an animated series called Avatar. “We are owners of three chinchillas, and they would require quarantine. Chinchillas are not common household pets and hence few people know how to cater to them, we’d be worried for them.”
“They resemble a combination of a rabbit and a squirrel,” states Ed. “Their lifespan ranges between 15 and 20 years, we recently adopted them, so we might delay our Ireland move for some time.”
Back on the coach, our journey continues direct to Galway. Montgomery picks another tune to celebrate our nearing arrival to Galway; the N17 by the Saw Doctors. He increases the volume, allowing the lyrics to resonate clearly: “How I wish I was travelling on the N17/ Stone enclosures and verdant pastures,” mirroring the real stone barriers and lush pastures whizzing past the bus windows.