“Hazel Allen: Gifted, Discreet Ballymaloe Restaurateur”

Hazel Allen, who was crucial in the transformation of Ballymaloe House into a renowned hotel, restaurant and culinary school, passed away on May 3rd, 2024 at the age of 73. She was born Hazel Lalor on October 16th, 1950. Her family, parents Harry and Betty Lalor, owned a farm in Co Laois, and had three children including Hazel.

Despite Myrtle and Darina Allen, Hazel’s mother-in-law and sister-in-law respectively, achieving public recognition, Hazel enjoyed operating quietly behind the scenes. In Nicholas Lander’s 2012 book ‘The Art of the Restaurateur’, where she was one of the 20 restaurateurs profiled, Hazel revealed that it was her first ever interview. According to Lander, Hazel focused more on her guests’ needs rather than discussing herself in the last 40 years.

Lander shared that he always visualised Hazel to be the one pulling the strings in Ballymaloe. Interestingly, she was the first entrepreneur he envisioned featuring when he contemplated his book.

Initially, Hazel aimed to be an occupational therapist, but her plan was delayed by a year as the university couldn’t accommodate her. Heeding her mother’s counsel, she enrolled in a hotel management programme at Cathal Brugha Street to stay occupied, leading her to explore Switzerland and Canada for internships towards the conclusion of her course.

The thought of settling back in Ireland and working in a local hotel didn’t seem appealing after her international exposure—until she found an article about Ballymaloe House while commuting by train in Canada. Intrigued by an image of Myrtle Allen alongside her family, Hazel decided to seek employment there – a choice that significantly marked her path for the next five decades.

Hazel made her journey to Shanagarry shortly after Darina O’Connell, another woman from Laois and alumna of Cathal Brugha, had done the same. Their arrival coincided with their swift acclimatisation and romantic discoveries. Hazel found love with Rory, Myrtle Allen’s son and wedded in 1974, following Darina’s marriage to his sibling, Tim, after a few years.

She collaborated closely with her mother-in-law, filling in her place when necessary and gradually assumed the main front-of-house role, while Myrtle dedicated herself to the kitchen and Darina managed a nearby cookery school.

Upon her passing, numerous online tributes from previous employees praised her composure, professional demeanour, and considerate approach towards staff. In his publication, Nicholas Lander applauded her subtly powerful presence in the dining room, highlighting “her excellent all-around awareness, essential for any restaurant owner, and her unobtrusive approach to ensuring that all runs smoothly” before retreating behind the scenes.

Her remarkable dedication to her job was evident, often leaving the restaurant at the wake of midnight to guarantee the last served table received service equal to the first one.

John and Sally McKenna, food critics, paid homage to her online, hailing her monumental role at Ballymaloe House. They wrote, “Hazel exemplified a blend of formality and discipline, consistently addressing her mother-in-law as Mrs Allen, yet she balanced this aspect of her character with an accepting attitude and crisp humour. She embodied the essence of hospitality, pioneering the blend of light-hearted yet accurate service that became Ballymaloe’s trademark.”

When Myrtle took on the role of a founding member of Ireland’s Blue Book, offering reviews and guides to country homes, historic guest lodgings and restaurants, Hazel joined her during the assembly sessions, subsequently becoming the treasurer and president.

Michelle Maguire, the CEO of Ireland’s Blue Book, revered Hazel for committing a significant portion of her time and expertise to the association, especially during her tenures as president and treasurer. She stated, “Hazel was held in high esteem and admiration within the association for being both a proficient businesswoman and more significantly, a cherished friend.”

Outside of her professional life, she had a knack for gardening and was fond of accompanying her other half on adventures to remote locations such as Chile, Seychelles and Tanzania. Although she relinquished her position as general manager at the age of 66, she retained an active role in the day-to-day operations at Ballymaloe up until her final day, during which she picked out wallpaper for the dining room.

Diagnosed with cancer three years prior to her passing, her approach was one of minimal fuss, choosing to concentrate on the positive aspects of her life and spend quality time with her loved ones. Her Quaker funeral took place in Ballymaloe Grainstore, a place she had managed various events, and was adorned with flowers and plants from the very gardens she loved.

Hazel Allen leaves behind her husband Rory, their five children – Cullen, Fawn, Darren, Caragh and Róisín, her two brothers – David and Joe, her fifteen grandchildren along with other family members.

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