The chill of winter is looming, and if you’re chasing a warm, extended weekend in a throughtfully picturesque city, consider Girona. This stunning city steeped in history is teeming with just over 100,000 inhabitants. Girona finds itself an hour’s drive away from France to the north, and only a 40-minute train trip from Barcelona to the southeast. You might have previously used its airport on your way to Barcelona, but Girona in itself is truly a worthwhile visit.
Taking a leisurely walk around the breath-taking old town on a Saturday morning perfectly encapsulates the calming ambience of this location. Perhaps the tranquil workings of the River Onyar, which deftly divides the old and more recent sections of the city into its eastern and western segments, is contributing to this serene pace of life. As you journey across the river, you’re spoilt for choice with several bridges that connect the two halves but the River Onyar’s most celebrated crossing point is probably the Pont de Eiffel, also known as The Iron Bridge. Constructed by Gustave Eiffel’s company in 1876, it pre-dates their work on the iconic Eiffel Tower.
The striking crimson hue of this bridge provides an engaging perspective of Girona’s lauded riverside architecture. It also gives a snapshot into the art nouveau style championed by local architectural icon, Rafael Masó. From the bridge, you have an uninterrupted view of the gothic spire of the Church of Sant Feliu and the imposing bell tower of Girona Cathedral.
Venture across the river and gently tread towards the Arab Baths. Records of a public bath at this location hark back to 1194. Carry on towards the Benedectine Monastery Sant Pere de Galligants, which has been the host for the Archaeology Museum of Catalonia since 1857. The museum, with its quirky character, warrants the €6 entry fee if not only for eliciting speculation from the gilded portrait of Our Lady of the Milk featuring St Bernard and St Benedict, which depicts milk flowing from Virgin Mary’s right breast – a sight not even Instagram could handle.
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As you amble through the ancient streets, you may feel an eerie familiarity; a sense that you’ve journeyed to King’s Landing or Braavos from the famed Game of Thrones series. Indeed, Girona greatly influenced these fictional towns. Should you find yourself pressed for time but yearning for a bit of fandom, a brisk climb up Girona Cathedral’s steps could satisfy your Thrones fix and perhaps awaken your Arya Stark spirit.
Venturing through the labyrinth of alleys, specifically in the revitalised Jewish quarter, El Call, is a delightful deviation. The restoration occurred post-1975, following Franco’s fall. The wandering route, be it intentional or not, often leads back to the Onyar river, with surprise discoveries like Plaça del Correau Vell waiting. On the river’s west side, expect to uncover Plaça de la Independència and Plaça Santa Susanna, home to the city’s Cinema Museum.
Girona is a haven for dog enthusiasts, packed with “gossos simpàtics” or friendly canines. Charming bichons donned in scarves accompany their owners at outdoor cafe tables. Ageing dachshunds seize the spotlight by creating a fuss with a passing Schnauzer hybrid at a cobblestoned square, and a graceful greyhound jogs alongside their owner, enjoying the city in the late morning sunshine. One could say Girona is a city where dogs lead a good life.
The yellow and red banner of the Catalan province proudly adorns store windows, balconies, and flagpoles. You’ll find that greeting phrases in Catalan and Spanish are the same, but never err by considering Catalonia merely Spain. Despite being an autonomous territory and not an independent nation, the nuances of its culture are embraced by locals who may not hesitate to correct you if you use Spanish terms inappropriately.
Should you find yourself inquiring online, “is it permissible to consume xuixo for the morning meal”, do remember that you are on vacation. Naturally, you are absolutely welcome to treat yourself to this local delicacy from Girona. This viennoiserie pastry, deep-fried and generously coated with sugar then further enhanced with a filling of crema catalana, is a veritable delight. The renowned Catalan bakery chain, Casamoner, operates Casa del Xuixo, located close to the Sant Feliu Church. In addition to the traditional xuixo, adventurous foodies can pick from alternatives such as those enveloped in chocolate, sprinkled liberally with raspberry or an assortment of other flavour variations.
Alternatively, be sure to sample an ensaïmada, a deliciously soft and sweet pastry hailing from the Balearic islands, from Antiga Casa Bellsolá. Established in 1892, this bakery tempts its patrons with a fetching assortment of baked goods. It’s worth noting that, if prepared authentically using saïm (a type of pork lard), the ensaïmada isn’t an option for vegetarians.
If it’s a hearty brunch you’re craving for, Idle Hands has you covered. This coffee joint, distinguished by its offerings of coffee, food, wine and vinyl, never disappoints. Near its exquisite terrazzo-style marble countertop (the barista assures me it’s sourced from Mallorca), you’ll notice a peculiarly intriguing feature; a covered hole in the floor. A peek through the thick glass will grant you a glimpse into an ancient well, hinting at the place’s intriguing past, possibly as a bakery. The familiar comfort food options – Eggs Benny, muhammara on toast or herby corn fritters – are perfect for acclimating to Girona on the first morning of your visit. A stone’s throw away, the ever-popular La Garrina, a restaurant and natural wine bar, is worth a visit. For your souvenir shopping, check out Vimet, offering an attractive array of pottery, gifts, natural wines and craft beer, located nearby.
As for transportation needs, while Rent A Car Costa Brava may not be the most budget-friendly option, the convenience of the booking, pickup, return procedures, backed by exceptional customer service, definitely justifies the slightly higher cost. Navigating Girona by car is relatively simple, though be prepared for a fair amount of roundabouts.
Consider embarking on a day outing to Tamariu, the quaint coastal village located an hour’s drive or two hours by bus from Girona. You’ll find parking close to the charmingly petite, crescent-shaped bay, punctuated by an assortment of seafood eateries, an inviting sandy shore, and vessels anchored in the port. Begin your adventure with a trek along the Camí de Ronda Tamariu coastal path, where you would need to dampen your feet in the ocean, as it’s the only bypass around the rocky start of the beach pathway.
While the track is simple enough, some sections are steep, so you’ll require appropriate footwear. Your challenging ascend will be compensated once you arrive at the exceptionally tranquil and pebble-strewn beach of Cala Pedrosa. Indulge in a light meal followed by a nap on the hot rocks and a dip in the tepid sea, before retracing your steps back to Tamariu – the journey will take approximately an hour each way. Treat yourself to a satisfying lunch at Bar Rodondo, a seafood establishment dating as far back as 1956.
Once back in Girona, reside at the eye-catching Hotel Palau Fugit situated in the old town bearing rates starting at €200 a night. An alternative option is Hotel Nord 1901 located west of the river, with prices commencing from roughly €175 a night. Girona is subtly design-oriented, which is mirrored in its Airbnb lodging that tends to offer more economical options. Opt for the hillside and unwind in the exclusive infinity pool at Carolina’s exquisite guesthouse in Taialà, accommodating up to four guests with a nightly rate of €250.
Within Taialà, you’re bound to rub elbows with some notable residents. The Can Roca Restaurant has been under the management of Chef Montserrat Fontané and Josep Roca, her spouse, since 1967. The establishment only operates from Monday to Friday, with the three-course menú diari typically priced at €16. It is recommended to book in advance or opt for takeaway if seating is unavailable.
Fontané and Roca have already made their mark, yet their three offspring are equally well-regarded within the gastronomic sphere. Their acclaimed restaurant, Cellar Can Roca, has been honoured with three Michelin stars and is conveniently located nearby their parents’ residence. As of October 2024, they will start accepting bookings for the month of September 2025, giving you adequate time to plan your trip to Girona.
Flights to Barcelona Girona are routinely provided by Ryanair from Dublin, Shannon, Cork, and Knock.