“Frank McNally’s Peaceful Visit to Hague”

Contrary to popular misconception, The Hague is not the Netherlands’ capital city. While it may be the home base for the Dutch royal family, government, and numerous foreign embassies, its capital designation only relates to the region of South Holland. The national capital is actually Amsterdam.

However, The Hague may harbour bigger dreams. During my recent visit alongside other journalists, the city was celebrating its 125th anniversary of being labelled the “International City of Peace and Justice”. Its recognition begun when Tsar Nicholas II selected the city for an 1899 peace conference. As the years have passed, it has progressively become known as a global hospitable home for conscience.

Reporters and attorneys often use “The Hague” as a shorthand reference to the Permanent Court of Arbitration (1899), the International Court of Justice (1945), or the International Criminal Court (2002) located there. The city’s Peace Palace, which was constructed from 1907 to 1913 and houses the PCA and ICJ, boasts an array of remarkable artworks. A standout piece shows the Goddess of Peace, seated in serenity, using the body of the slain God of War as a footrest.

Unfortunately, peace is typically more taxing to sustain than the goddess is portrayed. An enormous imperial vase — a gift from the appreciative Tsar — weighs a significant 3.2 tonnes as if symbolising the heavy load peace carries. The weighty gift, fabricated from jasper, marble and bronze, called for a reinforced location inside the palace to avoid causing considerable damage.

Denmark also gifted the palace with an impressive porcelain fountain featuring polar bears and sea lions, displaying the collective good will of participating countries. However, the vulnerability of porcelain serves as a bleak reminder of that of peace itself. During World War II, an allied assault caused damage to one of the sea lions. Dutch weather is another threat to the structure, causing it to be encased for an estimated “10 months of the year”, as tittered by a palace guide on my recent visit.

Given the current conditions in Ukraine and Gaza, signs of peace’s unease are obviously unnecessary. A sober ambiance reigned at the palace’s 125th commemoration on Thursday, despite the variety of wines and champagne from ten different nations. As one speaker pointed out, they were honouring the milestone, not throwing a party for it, because the world’s situation didn’t permit any joyfulness.

Meanwhile, at the International Criminal Court (ICC), it was a normal day. Our delegation momentarily observed the trial of Mahamat Said Abdel Kani, who three years ago turned himself in to stand trial for war crimes in Central African Republic, alleged to have been committed in 2013.

Following an airport-like security check where we handed over our phones, we were permitted to view the proceedings behind bulletproof glass. But due to an in-camera part of the case, we were unable to hear anything as our headphones were switched off.

While security is strict at the ICC, it’s never sufficient. For instance, The Guardian reported a nine-year battle against the court by Israel, involving “spying, hacking, and intimidation”, recently. Due to a sophisticated cyberattack by unknown individuals last year, there was no wifi during our visit.

Another shocking incident is the story of Slobodan Pralijak, a Bosnian Croat general convicted of war crimes at the specially-established International Criminal Tribunal for former Yugoslavia in 2017. He managed to sneak potassium cyanide into court and swallowed it after the verdict, resulting in his death shortly.

In Hague, an International Anti-Corruption Court could soon be joining the more than 200 NGOs and intergovernmental organisations. But the influence of this modest city could extend to space law, potentially falling under the auspices of both the ICJ and PCA.

At the terrestrial level, The Hague also juggled with the overdue formation of a new Dutch government this week, where radical right-winger Geert Wilders is expected to take the lead. In contrast, the quintessential Dutch politician has recently been outbound prime minister Mark Rutte, a Hague native famed for his love of cycling and deft talent for negotiating technical compromises on all contentious topics.

The implications of the strict, assertive administration are yet to reach a unanimous consensus. A local city tour guide displayed indifference, implying that the unpredictability of democracy could bring about another shift in power in a couple of years. However, a Dutch reporter, who spent his childhood in the area before relocating internationally, presented a more drastic view. According to him, the nation has taken a significant lean towards right-wing politics.

The city of Hague, being one of the most environmentally-friendly cities in entire Europe, has significantly embraced the trend of rewilding. With flourishing meadows dotting the cityscape alongside roads and tramways, nature is reclaiming urban spaces. In relation to this, the inception of the Geert Wildering initiative, the future impact of which remains to be seen, adds another layer to the city’s dynamic gardening landscape.

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