Food criticism is big business in Italy, what with Slow Food’s Gambero Rosso, competition for Michelin stars and the rest.
Which is why it’s refreshing to see a figure like Fernanda D’Arienza in the industry.
Fernanda is a food critic by profession, but prefers to go against the tide of most food critics and their status seeking.
The major difference is that she pursues her work incognito, booking tables under false names, paying the bill and asking no discounts.
But if something does go astray in her experience in restaurants, she is one of the most battle-ready customers.
It’s the opposite of what many Italians would do, who are generally so ready to indulge in theatrics without the art of an elegant complaint, to get themselves a free meal or a discount.
If you’re interested in seeing some of Fernanda’s critiques of restaurants in Italy, see the blog, La pecora nera (the Black Sheep).