My initial infatuation with Italy was sparked six decades ago, when the captivating tunes of Gigliola Cinquetti resonated via our family’s humble black-and-white television. Her soulful melody “Non ho l’eta per amarti” (I’m not old enough to love you) captivated me, along with a young Dana, who years later would also achieve Eurovision victory. Motivated by this musical encounter, I yearned to comprehend the Italian language further and get acquainted with the quaint charm of Italy.
Beginning from 1966, my expedition involved hitchhiking, backpacking, skiing, and mountaineering in the towering Alps, until eventually, in 2012, I ventured on a cycling trek from Naples to Brindisi, heading towards Istanbul. My adolescent infatuation with Gigliola gradually transformed into a more profound fondness for her language and the splendid land she hailed from, aptly named la Bel Paese.
Thrilled to revisit, I find myself immersed in the peak of Italy’s charm in a location unfamiliar to me, despite my visits throughout the years since my first. Alongside my wife, our destination is Monterosso, the northernmost and largest amongst the picturesque Cinque Terre villages, nestled on Italy’s Ligurian coast. Here, we relish in the tranquillity of a pleasant spring morning, savouring our first genuine holiday coffee.
The tiring journey, a flight from Dublin to Pisa with Ryanair, followed by a shuttle and train ride leading us to Monterosso al Mare, is now behind us. We hauled our luggage from the train station along an awe-inspiring seaside walk, through a brief tunnel etched into the cliff which demarcates the old town from the new. Indeed, we find ourselves captivated by the beauty of this new location.
Emerging from the charming “Captain’s House”, a charming boutique flat we’ve rented in the ancient town, we gingerly navigate down a winding, rocky alley sprinkled with quaint shops, market stalls, opened church doors and well-stocked minimarkets. Shortly thereafter, we leave the cool shadow of the 13th-century San Giovanni Battista Church, with its distinct white Carrara marble and black serpentine facade, and stride into the warm sunlight of the Piazza Garibaldi, lined with wisteria and beckoning tables.
As nine strikes echo from the church bells, energetic and talkative clusters of hikers, representing all walks of life and sizes, casually walk by, their boots scraping the flagstone with rhythm. We observe as the hike leaders momentarily pause, spotting the bright red-and-white signs that direct walkers across the hamlets and hills of this UNESCO World Heritage Site, filled with 125km of clearly marked and graded paths.
An overhead train briefly disrupts the tranquillity as it thunders out of a nearby tunnel, then just as suddenly retreats into another, leaving no one disturbed. By our second cup of Joe, we’re already thrilled about deciding to spend five days in Cinque Terre, willingly forgoing other appealing hotspots near Pisa like Lucca, Siena and Florence. For five days, the five towns, along with their hills and coastlines, are our dwelling.
Later on, equipped with poles and lightweight boots, we embark on a brisk 5km journey to Vernazza, the eldest amongst the five towns and situated south of Monterosso along the coastline. The bustling path, winding up from the beach and onto the protruding headland separating the two hamlets, is unmistakable.
This journey is not one to be taken lightly. It’s riddled with rising and falling staircases, areas of rough terrain, often claustrophobic pathways and abundant fellow travellers both ahead of and behind us, demanding attentiveness and caution. Nevertheless, it’s an exceptionally scenic trek alongside flower-adorned paths, framed by vintage dry stone terrace barriers. Moreover, we’re treated with views of the vivid blue ocean beneath us on our right as we progress. We pause at intervals to enjoy the melody of birds and review the panels sharing information about natural and social history along our path. Before we know it, our descent commences, and the charming, multicoloured, winding village and magnificent harbour square of Vernazza unravels beneath us. We halt to reflect and cherish this extraordinary Italian site we’ve reached.
This coastal stretch measures around 20km, put at both ends by significant protruding headlands on the northern and southern sides, shielded by a largely impassable series of mountains, climbing up nearly 800m, and overlooked by the routinely stormy Ligurian Sea. Its forested slopes and rivers remained untouched except by transient vessels until it was inhabited roughly 1,000 years ago. Throughout many centuries, numerous hearty individuals called it home, shaping a fresh landscape of stepped olive, grape, and lemon small-scale orchards and ultimately developing a prosperous fishing and farming-driven trade economy.
The towns, linked by a late-19th-century coastal railway, only became approachable by road around half a century ago and even today, all are pedestrianised. We rarely encounter a motor vehicle during our five days visit. Consequently, exploring the expansive squares and village roads is a genuine delight and respite for the cheerful, bustling crowds of tourists, ourselves included. And the sharp, antiquated paths connecting villages offer the preferred routes for numerous blissful walkers.
We reach Monterosso al Mare by train in a mere three minutes, contrasting the outbound hike that took close to three hours. Much later, we savour the sunset from one of the endearing stone balconies of the Aurora Restaurant, a former Genoese watchtower perched on the prominent headland that separates the old and new parts of town. Later into the night, we get to enjoy passionate and stirring music performed by a beachfront mini-orchestra in Monterosso al Mare, warming up against a wall that radiates the heat from a long, sun-soaked day.
Throughout the ensuing days, we rejoice in the opportunities provided by the cross-village train system. A couple of times, we savour a delectable breakfast of bacon and eggs in Piazza Garibaldi, join the train and savor morning coffee in the tranquil atmosphere of another coastal village. Alternatively, we venture down the coast by train in order to dine in Riomaggiore and Cornelia during the evening.
In Riomaggiore, our meal is enjoyed at an elevated restaurant overlooking the harbour and petite marina. We partake in the jubilant crowd witnessing a slow, majestic sunset. Surrounding us, spectators observe from restaurants, bars, the beach, and even a few from miniature boats adrift on a crystal-clear sea. Our most pleasurable sunset-seeking escapade, without a doubt, is Cornelia. Even undertaking the 380 steps from the station, ascending to this striking hilltop hamlet isn’t daunting after hiking and lounging in and above Manarola. This effort is rewarded by discovering the charming Marina di Cornelia restaurant and a spectacular sunset.
During our sojourn in Cinque Terre, we indulge in ice creams, seafood, pastas, bruschettas, and morning pastries. We sip on Aperols, local wines along with a myriad of coffee blends. Majority of the time we spend strolling or simply relaxing under the continuous blanket of warm sunshine. The constant stairs to and fro the hilly terrain becomes a tad strenuous although they add to its character.
One day, my wife chooses to relax while I trek the often shadowed pathway between Cornelia and Vernazza. I leisurely spend an hour on the delightful terrace of the Bar il Gabbiano. A memorable moment for me was the sound of tinkling bells echoing from the distant 13th-century Church of San Pietro located in Cornelia. This village has fast become my preferred spot.
On our closing day, we board a ferry from Monterosso, taking time to savour lunches, sip on coffees, gulp down cokes and indulge in cakes at Vernazza and Riomaggiore. The routes we’ve traversed during our stay, seen from the sea, look both intimidating and appealing. As we depart for Pisa by train, the sea unleashes its unruly side. But a blazing sun, balmy winds, and twinkling blue and white sea lend the scene a different charm, albeit with signs of potential chaos and prolonged seclusions.
The memorable moments we’ve spent in Cinque Terre are some of our best-shared experiences. This magnificent destination, with its sensation of exclusivity, easy access to rail and sea travel, and the near-complete absence of pesky vehicles—cars, buses, taxis, or buzzing Vespas, is unparalleled. The warmth of the local Italians, the range of sumptuous food, hair salons, pubs, stores, eateries, and its unique style and opportunities for people watching, and above all, the options for walking – contribute to a singular vacation.
Indeed, the villages are crowded and the queues for trains and bathrooms, particularly in Vernazza, can be chaotic. But there’s an odd, primal charm to being amidst throngs of joyful people on the seafronts, tiny docks, patios, and narrow alleys, especially watching the sunset in Riomaggiore.
Though numerous marine activities and a chance to ascend every Genoese observation tower elude us, so too the opportunity to witness the exquisite interiors of each church and abbey, brimming with treasures from both local and visiting artisans, remained unexplored. We didn’t delve into the trails and elevated settlements in the hills either. However, we indulged in enough experiences to kindle our love for Cinque Terre at our leisure.
Admittedly, I didn’t chance upon Gigliola Cinquetti. Still, I depart Cinque Terre with a reborn affection for her tongue and the warmth of her people and her country’s landscape – La Bella Italia.