The late gastronomy innovator, Russell Norman, reshaped the dining scene with the introduction of small and sharing plates when he launched Polpo in London’s Soho in 2009. Drawing inspiration from the bacaris of Venice, the menu initiates with cicchetti, representing Venetian appetizers, and progresses to more substantial dishes intended for communal dining.
While the hipster trend, exemplified by exposed brick walls and filament bulbs, has seen a decline, the concept of sharing plates continues to thrive in recently established eateries. It’s worth noting that Norman’s Venetian recipe book ‘Polpo’ is a must-have addition to your cookbook collection. If Venice is on your travel itinerary, take heed of the final chapter – a local’s guide to the city’s wine bars and eateries.
Sharing plates are not a novel concept, stretching beyond Venice to tapas bars in Spain and the communal dining style often seen in the Far East. However, this style of communal dining isn’t universally embraced, particularly in Ireland, where some diners prefer to command their meals and keep their dishes to themselves, navigating around the implicit sharing etiquette like splitting five prawns amongst three people. Even in community-based eateries, I’ve observed the presence of a fallback for the traditional three-course order.
A newly opened restaurant, Esther’s, which took over Gaz Smith’s Little Mike’s space in February, follows the model of small and large plates, more akin to the conventional starters and main course, albeit with a touch of sharing thrown into the smaller plates.
The restaurant design caters for both dining styles. One side features an open kitchen with high-stooled counters next to the wall and window while the snug area offers a more comfortable, traditional table seating arrangement. As both spaces are packed on a Thursday night, it’s clear that the owners, Derek Kelly and Nicole Keegan, have struck a chord with their dining model.
Sampling smaller dishes, we indulged in the meatballs, cod croquettes and scampi, but our main interest was geared towards the spicy fried chicken (€13). The dish comes as a spread meant for several, featuring succulent pieces of free-range chicken encased in a golden, crisp breadcrumb crust that’s garnished with lemon aioli. The aioli could benefit from a stronger garlic flavour, but the spices provided a pleasantly fiery kick.
We also had a serving of charred baby leeks (€11), masterfully intertwined with ajo blanco, wild garlic salsa and a smoky pimiento tomato sauce. The dish was brought to perfection with chopped smoked almonds sprinkled over the top as a crunchy addition. A smaller portion compared to the chicken dish, this ensemble may be a plate you’d prefer to keep for yourself.
To complement our meals, we opted for a bottle of Gioninotto (€36), a Sicilian white wine. The wine list isn’t too elaborate, offered by two suppliers, but it does provide an ample selection of bottles under €40 which certainly wouldn’t go amiss in a casual neighbourhood restaurant.
If you’re considering sharing a range of small plates and a large dish, you should opt for the red prawn fregola (€32). If this is your first time experiencing fregola – a type of Sardinian pasta quite akin to oversized couscous – you’re in for a treat. The dish boasts of a hearty smear of sauce rich with Spanish red prawns and tomatoes, generously tossed with firm, toothsome fregola. The finishing touch is a scattering of basil leaves which wilt and release their fragrant aroma.
Our final choice was the John Dory (€35), a featured market-fish that is irresistibly delightful. The fish was expertly cooked offering a crispy skin and beautifully separated flakes laid on a cushion of baby potatoes, carrots and asparagus, all bathed in a creamy, buttery sauce.
Opting for a dessert at Esther’s, a smart local eatery, we go for their choux pastry, priced at €10, which is generously filled with a blend of salted caramel and creme diplomat, delicately placed amid a blackcurrant compote. Their almond financier dish, available at €9, is lavishly garnished with an intense chocolate ganache known as namelaka, along with orange curd and orange slices.
It’s clear that the staff at Esther’s is proficient, displaying a precise understanding of their clientele’s preferences. Their warm and prompt service complements the skilfully prepared Mediterranean cuisine. It’s no wonder this place is bustling.
A meal for two, complemented with a wine bottle, amounts to €146.
My Verdict: Competent culinary execution, excellent service, and satisfying meals.
They can trace food sources to Kish Fish, Wright’s, Feighcullen Farm’s chicken, Peter Hannan, Keelings, and Sheridan’s.
They cater to vegetarians with offerings like grilled leeks, fresh rigatoni cacio e pepe, and cheese.
The venue isn’t disabled-friendly as there isn’t an accessible room or toilet.
The ambience is set by pop music played subtly in the background.