Why isn’t my local butcher stocking spring lamb for Easter?
A number of butchers in Ireland are choosing not to offer spring lamb this Easter as it would require them to charge upwards of €100 per lamb leg, which is a price determined by their cost. And this, despite the fact that sheep farming is quite prevalent in the country, gives rise to less than affordable lamb.
Why, then, are “Spring Lamb” legs available in the supermarket for less than €20?
The reason behind this price discrepancy lies in supermarkets’ use of a popular tactic to entice fresh customers – selling at a loss. Supermarkets will often lower the prices of certain items like lamb legs or vegetables to draw in customers. The idea is to make up for these losses through the sale of high-margin products elsewhere in the store. This practice of ‘loss leading’, however, is disputable and viewed as harmful by farmers and food producers.
What makes this year unique?
The Muslim holiday Eid al-Fitr, which marks the end of Ramadan, falls just 10 days after Easter this year. This, in turn, results in high demand for lamb during both Easter Sunday family gatherings and Eid celebrations in Ireland, UK and the rest of Europe. Given that over 80% of Irish lamb is exported, Irish butchers and retailers find themselves in tough competition with European buyers willing to pay high prices for spring lamb. This year, many butchers are either not offering spring lamb or offering less than in previous years.
What exactly does ‘spring lamb’ mean?
Spring lambs are born in December of the preceding year and are ready for the Easter and early summer market. They are slaughtered between three to five months old and are recognised for their slightly rosy meat with a smooth finish. The lambs are primarily raised indoors during the winter, subsisting on milk and animal feed. This poses a high production cost, which has been exacerbated by the recent increase in animal feed prices and energy costs.
Despite what the term might suggest, spring lambs in Ireland are rather heavy at the time of slaughter, weighing approximately 35kg. Currently, both “Spring Lamb” and “Irish Lamb” are displayed for sale in butchers and supermarkets, the latter typically being hogget.
What is hogget?
Hoggets are year-old lambs, often mislabeled as lamb in Ireland due to the non-protected nature of the term “lamb” unlike “organic”, which has a precise legal definition. Hoggets, regardless of their gender, have desirable eating qualities and a meat color deeper than that of spring lamb, due to them being older. Some debate that hoggets taste richer as they have been grazing longer.
In the case of mutton, it refers to sheep that are more than three years old. In Ireland, these sheep, predominantly ewes, are commonly culled and termed “cull ewes” at meat plants. The reasons behind culling can be failing to reproduce, undesirable traits like lameness, or feeding difficulty caused by dental issues. These are known as “broken mouthed ewes” and are usually seen at the age of five. However, some ewes go on to live long and fruitful lives, giving birth to many lambs throughout their lives.
Chefs often express preference for the taste of mutton over lamb, particularly when slow-cooked. In parts of North Africa and the Middle East, mutton features prominently in traditional delicacies such as tagines, known for their incredible taste and quality.
As for superior lamb available to purchase currently, organic “single estate” lamb from specific farms is highly recommended. An example is Kilmullen Farm lamb in Wicklow, which has small but top-notch herds. Similarly, Comeragh Mountain Lamb guarantees quality as they focus on outdoor rearing of their lambs on quality grass and mixed swards to enhance the lamb’s flavour. Mixed swards, a combination of clovers, grasses, brassicas and herbs, not only enrich the meat taste but also contribute to more sustainable farming practices, by adding nitrogen to the soil and reducing fertiliser needs.
The highest-priced lamb in Ireland is organic lamb, farmed with no fertilisers, pesticides or herbicides. This farming approach promotes biodiversity by maintaining lesser animals per field. Despite being the most expensive variety of lamb, many vouch for its superiority.