The recently debuted horror film, “The Substance,” highlights the prominent fixation of Hollywood on youth. The film boasts Demi Moore in the lead role, who, set in her 50s, plays a celebrity who utilises a clandestine substance to form a more youthful, improved version of herself. Though it premiered in a surrealist world and comprised intense, exaggerated and gruesome elements, its grim critique on the unrealistic and distorted beauty ideals of our society surprisingly resonates.
Two decades prior, cosmetic enhancements were primarily associated with the upper echelons of celebrities and the extravagantly wealthy. Presently, occupations as disparate as teaching, entrepreneurship and even adolescents are just as inclined to engage in what are now jovially referred to as “tweakments,” in the same vein as their more affluent counterparts. There has been a surge in the popularity of lip augmentations, Botox, and various dental cosmetic procedures over the past ten years, as the relentless pursuit of youth and perfection starts to grow. Estimates indicate that annually, Irish citizens spend what could be a cautious figure of €200 million on beauty injections. Over-inflated lips, exaggerated eyelashes and impeccably aligned teeth have become a standard to the extent that they are viewed as desirable and conventional among a generation, raised on a perpetual stream of digitally manipulated images and reality television.
The societal compulsion for women to appear eternally youthful is not a new concept. As far back as Cleopatra, women have sought methods to retain their skin’s youthful appearance, with the ancient queen reportedly bathing in donkey milk. However, towards the latter part of the 20th century, the concept of “youth” was heavily commodified, with cosmetic brands launching a myriad of products claiming to rewind the years. The beauty industry has historically targeted women, leaving men largely untouched. However, this exclusion has diminished over time. The change is less about women liberating themselves from unattainable beauty standards but rather because cosmetics companies recognised a potentially lucrative, untapped male market.
Today, male grooming has risen exponentially, with a recent statistic showing an annual increase of 77 per cent in beauty expenditure by UK men. Men are also contributing significantly to the cosmetic dentistry and hair transplant industries. A research firm measured the global hair transplant industry at $8.05 billion in 2023 and estimated it to hit $16.62 billion in 2032.
In the UK, public figures and sport personalities taking on the roles of “brand representatives” for hair renewal clinics have played a significant role in reducing the previously associated disgrace with practices associated with male grooming. These protagonists express their triumph over feelings of discomfort related to their diminishing hair, stating that the experience has brought about a newfound self-assurance in the wake of transplant procedures. Whilst improved self-confidence is indeed a benefit, there is a downside to this scenario too: the endorsement of hair renewal inadvertently supports a perception that baldness – akin to fine lines or less full lips – is an ailment that needs eradication, rather than being an accepted aspect of the aging process.
Regrettably, nine individuals from Ireland have lost their lives since 2020, a consequence of the both cosmetic and medical interventions they underwent in Turkey, as per reports from the media.
In contemporary society, we are gradually adapting to new aesthetic standards like fuller lips, veneers, or dense, thick hair. The top budgetary demand of adhering to these norms, however, is steadily emerging as a significant financial strain. Consequently, people are directing their attention to obtain budget-friendly treatments abroad, tantalized by the proposal of merging beauty augmentations with a sunny vacation. Large numbers of individuals from Ireland journey annually for surgical procedures, a substantial many opting for Turkey, now famous as the world’s hub for hair transplants. Turkey is also a preferred destination for aesthetic dental procedures and rhinoplasty. Given that the charges for such interventions are comparatively 75 per cent less than similar treatments provided in Ireland, it goes without saying why it holds such popularity.
Arranging for a cosmetic surgical intervention in Turkey is now as straightforward as placing a food order from Tesco online. A swift search on Google leads to multiple package options, inclusive of travel, treatment, and accommodations in a luxurious five-star hotel. Craftily presenting serious medical procedures as part of an indulgent vacation, these packages are sold under captivating names such as ‘the mummy makeover’ or ‘the all-inclusive sapphire hair transplant’. In addition, offers often comprise chauffeur services, privileged dining experiences, and attractive discounts for opting for multiple procedures at once. In the social media sphere, influential figures proudly present their glamorous trips to sun-soaked beaches, taking time out to undergo cosmetic enhancements before heading home refreshed, sun-tanned and arguably, more attractive.
Whilst a myriad of safe, approved surgical procedures are available in Turkey, unchecked and dubious clinics also exist, posing potential health hazards to patients. Influencer videos tend to gloss over the negative aspects, such as complications like scalp infections, reopened wounds, and excruciating dental pain frequently experienced by patients who choose to seek treatment overseas. Irish health professionals have noticed an uptick in patients facing adverse side effects following surgeries conducted abroad in such establishments that were initially deemed harmless.
According to a recent study conducted by Connolly Hospital, the medical records of 30 patients, predominantly female, revealed post-procedure complications associated with cosmetic surgeries undertaken outside Ireland between September 2021 and December 2022. The most common procedure recorded was Abdominoplasty, also known as a ‘tummy tuck’, with 70 % of the patients having undergone surgery in Turkey. The predominant issue encountered was ‘wound dehiscence’ – a situation where the wound breaks open. The doctors highlighted that different bacterial strains and the challenge of antimicrobial resistance further complicated the treatment.
It was also noted that the patients lacked adequate pre-procedure consultation and were not thoroughly informed about potential risks, which would be a requirement at any Irish-approved clinic. Language barriers exacerbate the risks as patients may not comprehend the treatments they consent to or the procedural aftercare instructions. According to media reports, at least nine Irish citizens have died since 2020 due to aesthetic or medical treatments undertaken in Turkey, underpinning the severe risks attached. The Irish Department of Foreign Affairs has consequently updated its travel guidance on Turkey to include a cautionary note about citizens who’ve encountered complications or even died due to treatments.
Despite multiple caveats, people continue to flock to these overseas clinics. This is largely driven by changing societal norms around beauty, amplified by an onslaught of filtered images and messaging, which is coaxing people to make extreme changes to their appearance, even when the associated dangers far exceed the potential benefits.
Elaine Maguire O’Connor, an expert in fashion law and established writer, provides a chilling perspective that this reality is more terrifying than any horror cinematic.