As we journey from the North to South pole aboard our vessel, we quietly sift through the ocean floor for phytoplankton, gathering samples along the way. A voyage on the Viking Explorer is far from typical – imagine sailing from Toronto to New York, stopping in at beloved Canadian locales like Quebec City, Saguenay and Charlottetown on the Canadian Discovery Cruise. It’s an experience that far exceeds the conventional stereotypical cruise images. It doesn’t merely involve lounging on the deck, but rather engaging in exciting conversations about unique avian species with on-board ornithologists, spotting whales with state-of-the-art binoculars. Even submarines and special ops boats are stationed onboard our ship, the Viking Polaris, where even more discoveries await.
These discoveries notably also involve tasting expertly crafted martinis, savouring delectable cuisine, reading engrossing books available in our on-board libraries, and indulging in board games, puzzles, tours and evening entertainment. Enjoy all the comforts of a luxury cruise, injected with an invigorating touch of adventure and learning. Meet the head scientist Meghan Goggins in her impressive laboratory, leaf through a book, or partake in one of numerous delightful excursions once we dock. The choice is yours.
While several cruise lines are now embracing citizen science, only Viking and the French firm Ponant are currently hosting comprehensive science labs. The Viking Explorer, thanks to its unique itineraries, as Goggins asserts, offers invaluable opportunities for researchers. Though our trip began in Toronto, the Polaris’ worldwide journey offers ideal conditions for extensive sampling and soundings. Collaborations with illustrious institutions, such as Cornell and Cambridge Universities and the Norwegian Polar Institute, ensure the acquired data significantly contributes to vital research, as we simultaneously enrich our knowledge with enlightening lectures.
A vivid example of this intersection is our weather balloon launch. As we release the balloon holding comforting hot chocolate mugs, the experience is strikingly emotive. Joining a group later to explore the results from the stratosphere adds even more joy to the already exciting adventure, especially for a weather forecast enthusiast like me.
Our voyage, brimming with unexpected and captivating encounters, meanders up the St Lawrence River to Nova Scotia, visiting enchanting and secluded locations, far removed from the typical tourist routes. Our stops are brief and travelling aboard a vessel engineered to slice through polar ice adds a layer of excitement to our daily activities. The diverse group of passengers on the trip mirrors the itinerary. The majority are Americans but the ship caters to a total of 52 different nationalities. The Viking-sponsored cruises are exclusively for guests aged 18 and over and the Polaris can only accommodate up to 378 guests. The types of travelers I encounter include adventurous pairs, adult extended families, and many retirees, whose professional backgrounds range from naturalists and photographers to scientists and surgeons. This results in intriguing conversations during cocktail hours and intense competition during the afternoon trivia sessions.
My time is spent on the deck, wrapped up warm, whilst we journey along the Saguenay Fjord. Birds gracefully glide above the frozen waterfalls and the ambiance quickly becomes serene, akin to an immersive relaxation tape in real-time. With our eyes scanning for whales, such as beluga and minke, as well as dolphins, there is always a crew member present to assist us in identifying the marine life. Over time, I notice that the more thrilling sea creatures tend to show up when I’m below deck, so I selflessly retire early to the bar to better the ship-boards’ chances at whale watching. This sacrifice is not so hard to bear, given the beautifully scenic views witnessed from the bar coupled with the delicious cocktails and soothing jazz music.
As our voyage unfolds, I can’t help but question if I am more drawn to the maritime days or the terrestrial ones. The tranquil elegance of my Scandinavian-inspired quarters certainly appeal to me, with the privilege of gazing upon a magnificent cosmic spectacle from my balcony on warmer evenings. Setting foot in Charlottetown, it’s rather intriguing to encounter an Irish signboard, a reminder of the 1830s when Edward Whelan from Ballina made this part of the globe his home and subsequently formed the Canadian Confederation. This region is dotted with small communities and isles where the potent Irish brogue still exists, a testament to the isolation endured by the initial immigrants. This is juxtaposed with our excursions to indigenous territories, like the Huron-Wendat village near Quebec, wherein our local escort shares how colonisation disrupted his people’s ancient narratives, and I come to understand that all our histories are essentially tales of human migration and settlement. The fortunate travellers were those who received a warm welcome, even though the stories tell us that those extending the welcome weren’t always so fortunate themselves.
In Quebec, I awaken my forgotten French language skills at the site of the Montmorency Falls, towering even more than Niagara. Here, I get an insight into the struggles of the Acadian settlers, who were eventually deported to New Orleans carrying what we now know as Cajun culture. At Trois-Rivieres, a unique culinary journey introduces us to the distinct flavour of fiddlehead ferns and subsequently, an array of superb tequilas. Activities are diverse, from kayaking and guided nature tours to wild blueberry and gin tastings. We even stumble upon blueberry pasta, which is surprisingly less odd than anticipated, and undertake a hike at Pennant Point near Halifax, where the untouched splendour leaves me breathless.
One of the delights of this journey is the inclusion of at least one guided tour in your ticket price, enabling you to plan your expenses and enjoyment accordingly. For the more self-guided explorer, invest time in preparing before you go to determine which stop-offs are navigable on your own. For example, Charlottetown in Prince Edward Island, on the current route, offers a charming opportunity for exploration, and houses a celebrated art gallery where chatty locals are pleased to see a visitor from afar. “We’ve got a visitor from Ireland,” they inform a newcomer, picking me out amongst the exhibition crowd.
In the afternoon, we visit the family home of Lucy Maud Montgomery, beloved writer of the Anne of Green Gables series. Coinciding with the 150th birth anniversary celebration of Montgomery in November, those interested may buy quirky “Anne” themed fridge magnets from the on-site shop. Further north is Halifax, a port of significance for those intrigued by the Titanic saga, as it was the departure point of the rescue ships and the somber hub of the later salvage operation. The guide’s voice betrays her emotion as she relives the history.
As our trip draws close to an end, we loop back to the Atlantic coast, the Polaris route allowing us to pause for the ice conditions to improve for our voyage further north. Should you have around €90,000 at your disposal you can take a Viking cruise from one pole to another, a near three months long expedition. Those who have completed either this trip or the Antarctic leg, eagerly share stories of icebergs, whales, and penguins. But as impressive as these stories and photographs are, I find they distract from fully appreciating the unique wildlife and beauty of the place we are currently visiting. With its own quiet charm, it holds its own wonder.
The climax of our journey arrives with our early morning entry into Manhattan as dawn unfolds its light. Fog lifts, revealing the Statue of Liberty, and the sunrise bounces off the city’s distinctive skyscrapers. Although this sight is breathtakingly beautiful, it is not my most cherished memory. The trip has gifted me with a lasting impression of discovery and awe, momentously more valuable than a single iconic snapshot. Surely there is a scientific reason for this phenomenon.
Getting there is a part of the adventure.
Gemma Tipton embarked on the Canadian Discovery Cruise as Viking’s guest, exploring cities such as Toronto, Trois-Rivières, Quebec, Saguenay, Sept-Îles, Cap-aux-Meules, Charlottetown, Halifax, and New York. For cruising from April 11th to 23rd, 2025, the tour costs £7,695 per person sharing, inclusive of return flights from London, transfers within the destination, and a 12-night stay in a Nordic Balcony Stateroom. The package also provides all meals aboard the ship, incorporating wine, beer, and non-alcoholic beverages during meals, selected excursions, conversations, amusement, internet access, and discretionary gratuities. However, a Canadian eTA, which costs CAD $7, is essential and can be acquired online at canada.ca. Entry to New York requires a US Esta, costing US $21.
Packing tips
Keep in mind the varying weather conditions during your trip, as it can range from a comfortable 20 degrees in Toronto and Manhattan to a chilling -9 degrees up north. Ensure you pack both warm and cool clothes. No formal attire is demanded on board. The dress code varies from casual sportswear or jeans to a more elegant casual ensemble for evenings, such as dresses or skirts, smart trousers and shirts. Moreover, pack a pair of walking shoes and swimwear. The ship provides European two-pin, US flat-pin and USB plug sockets.