Despite a year that has seen over 200 restaurant closures in the first four months across the country, brothers Marc and Conor Bereen are not deterred. These two courageous men are reviving their once highly-successful eatery, Coppinger Row, in Dublin. The online booking system was launched on 11th July, showcasing the brothers’ confidence that their former dining hotspot can regain its place within the local community. This comes despite numerous recent closures, in a neighbourhood still vibrant with stylish local places and culinary classics.
The dining place, located on the street that shares its name and links Clarendon and South William Streets in Dublin, initially opened in 2009. Quickly it attained ‘local gem’ status, a reputation that usually demands years to establish. The allure of the former incarnation Coppinger Row, now just ‘Coppinger’, had much to do with its undeniable charm. Like the owners, the restaurant portrayed a casual, appealing ambience without any pretence. Additionally, the restaurant had other enticing elements: a modern, minimalistic interior featuring an on-trend open kitchen design, a crowd-attracting menu that presented an array of Mediterranean creations with an Irish twist, and a relaxed space which welcomed anyone, from those seeking a small snack to larger corporate gatherings.
Marc, the elder brother by a year and a half, reflects, “The core vision for Coppinger Row was ensuring an inclusive environment. We wanted everyone, irrespective of the cash they had to spend, to feel welcomed, which is something we believe we achieved well”. Conor echoed Marc’s sentiments: “One might not spend a fortune on a table of friends enjoying a cocktail or two but that was an integral aspect of the experience we aimed to offer. It’s all about the communal aspect of dining out”. Such was Coppinger’s prosperity that it saw a daily influx of groups of friends, couples, business associates, and even celebrities, including U2, George Clooney, and Beyoncé amongst others. As Conor puts it, “We struck the right chords”.
“Starting any culinary venture is a gamble, but we always felt assured that we had the backing of the local community and a successful model,” they conclude.
The sons of a psychiatrist and a professional actor, the brothers naturally acquired the necessary people management skills for running a restaurant, with its intricate emotional and operational demands – a business that involves a large degree of performance. Marc, with his two years at the Gaiety School of Acting and a long-standing association with the hospitality industry from his university days; and Conor, a fine art graduate from Central Saint Martins, London, former professional model, and skilled artist, it’s a wonder what could go wrong for a restaurant that had made it through tough times such as recession and pandemic.
The decision to close the restaurant, remarkably, did not result from the common reasons that often lead to restaurant failure such as escalating operational costs, upsurge in food prices, ill management, or waning customer interest. Rather, it was the landlord’s choice to refurbish the site that threw a spanner in the works for the Bereen brothers. Marc explains, “Aviva owns several buildings on South William Street, adjacent to the Coppinger site. In order to rent these buildings out feasibly, there was a need to build an emergency fire escape through Coppinger involving substantial construction and closing the restaurant. Regrettably, Aviva wouldn’t ensure a new lease for us, opting instead to put the property up for grabs.”
The brothers had acquired the initial lease when the property market was on the downturn and substantial businesses were withdrawing. Their rolling short-term lease agreement lessened the risk for landlords but did not grant them a guaranteed renewal.
The restaurant had to close its doors against a tide of emotional support from loyal customers on social media. However, the brothers were quick to respond. They launched into action, demonstrating their business prowess and restaurant management skills to compete with larger hospitality companies and regain the lease of a location that had been significant to them for 15 years. They inaugurated the cosy suburban restaurant, Orwell Road in Rathgar in March 2022, and the stylish yet casual Row Wine Bar in April 2023, conveniently located near Coppinger. Their portfolio also features the upscale yet cost-effective Charlotte Quay restaurant, set up in 2016 in Dublin’s main tech hub, Grand Canal Dock.
Marc and his brother never stopped asserting their business prowess, affirming that they were just as capable and dynamic as their industry peers. Their unwavering resolve yielded results when Aviva, in the face of interest from others, consented to a 25-year lease with the brothers, a development they hailed as nothing less than phenomenal.
In our video discussion, Marc participated from his unpretentious dwelling in Rathgar, with disarrayed clothing providing an unceremonious backdrop. On the other hand, Conor joined from an intricately adorned interior in Capri where he’s at present vacationing. It’s a suitable setting for the former model-turned-celebrated artist. Both brothers appear wholly content, reflecting on their rollercoaster journey of the past three years.
As renowned chef and author Anthony Bourdain noted, the restaurant industry has a knack for keeping one humble. And true to his words, Marc and Conor don’t even hint at being prideful or feeling entitled about the situation they found themselves in. Their rapport with Aviva remained cordial, with Marc reflecting on the Aviva team they interacted with as immensely understanding, professional, and supportive. The 47-year-old adds: “Our foremost aim was to reclaim Coppinger Row. Although an astute businessman wouldn’t let emotions dictate decisions, we were deeply emotionally invested in this venture.”
Conor, having taken a step back from the operational aspects of business years ago to focus on his artistic pursuit, conveys that this detachment offered him a an impartial outlook. He maintained, “Being at arm’s-length provided me a balanced perspective. We had a solid business that connected with folks in the community. Starting any eating joint comes with risks, but we knew we had local backing and that our model was a proven one.”
The brothers have assured customers that they will retain the enchanting appeal of the original Coppinger Row in its reimagined form. They see it as a convivial, richly historic space. Marc muses, “Coppinger Row had always felt like home, like that favourite sweater you find genuine comfort in.”
Conor describes Coppinger Row as a chosen neutral area that the locals yearned for; similar to the communal essence of Grogans and Hogans, representing the city itself. The establishment eventually became a part of the city’s identity, a transformation that Conor hopes will reoccur. In the creation of the brothers’ inspired ideas, 45-year-old Conor played a critical part, collaborating with architects from SSA, based in Ballsbridge, to recreate the cherished environment of Coppinger Row to its upcoming phase.
Marc, however, emphasizes that the world of dining is a voguish endeavour. Trends in both food and restaurant decor rapidly evolve, and he believes it’s crucial for Coppinger Row to mirror this change, regardless of potential backlash. Marc boasts robust knowledge in industry patterns and trends, nurtured over nearly thirty years working in the sector. He began as a waiter at Tosca, Dublin’s former exuberant celebrity hotspot, which was under the ownership of Bono’s brother, Norman Hewson, until it shut down in 2000. He quickly became enamoured by the energetic atmosphere on the restaurant floor, singing praises of it being his “stage,” and noting that it resonates with echoings of life. According to him, just as his mother would bond with her crew on every film and theatre set she was part of, he shares a similar connection with his restaurant colleagues.
Approaching their four eateries as their offspring, Marc highlights that each establishment has its unique persona, sometimes performing well, and other times not quite so. He and Conor concede that even though Coppinger Row might have had the public image of an overnight success, it, indeed, wasn’t the case. It took between a year to 18 months to truly find its rhythm. They initially experimented with a menu entirely consisting of ‘plate dishes’, inspired by the dining style popular in Paris and Barcelona. However, this setup didn’t resonate with their patrons who leaned more towards the conventional starter and main course offerings. Hence, they made the switch, taking some time to discover the perfect balance and to gain popularity during lunchtime and evenings. Nowadays, with Dan Hannigan at the helm as the executive chef at all four restaurants, the menu at Coppinger Row has been revitalised, featuring some of its familiar dishes coupled with an array of new tastes.
The commitment to maintain an inviting environment for all patrons, irrespective of the size of their wallets, remains unperturbed at Coppinger Row. Recognising that many customers at present might not possess extensive disposable income, the message from the establishment is clear – everyone is welcome to a lush experience involving delightful cocktails and luscious crab starters, without the worry of a hefty bill. The managing duo is aware, however, that maintaining their financial equilibrium is paramount amid their current positioning in the competitive market.
Coppinger Row is neither a budget location offering low-cost nibbles, nor an extravagant restaurant with unrestricted pricing capacity. According to Marc, much of their expenditure is dedicated towards ambient decor, good salaries for their skilled chefs, and a premium for experienced floor staff and sommeliers. Operating a restaurant of this caliber incurs substantial running costs. Since they suspended operations at Coppinger Row, the price of procuring steak has soared from €35-€36 to €42. However, this isn’t clear profit – it reflects the increased procurement cost.
Marc and his brother emphasized the absence of affluent investors backing their venture – their financial support comes solely from a bank loan. They also acknowledged the debts tied to their business. Ensuring prompt profitability is essential for repaying their incurred financial obligations in these particularly daunting times.
Nonetheless, the brothers present a calm and collected front, seemingly at ease in their interview. They exhibit a natural rapport, providing room for each other in their exchanges. Despite acknowledging that their partnership has faced several challenges over the years, they profess that they are currently enjoying their collaboration immensely.
In their younger years, the South William pub was run by the pair, a hotspot during the Celtic Tiger era. However, they shut it down to actualise their long-standing aspiration of becoming restaurant owners. “We held identical roles there; every day provided a chance to clash due to the constant proximity, and our frequent socialising began to hurt our relationship,” Marc admitted. He acknowledged the habitual sibling roles often surfaced at work, which isn’t ideal when you’re business partners. He shared, “We yearned to return to being brothers and understood at that point that something would inevitably snap under the strain of close professional ties, and we didn’t want it to be our bond.”
Marc shared their dining experience at Kicky’s as he and Dan went for a quick lunch recently. According to him, he was prepared to critique it, but he found no faults.
For Conor, the situation was a bit more nuanced. He said, “In the immediate years post the 2008 financial crisis, the magnitude of work and the dwindled zeal for the daily grind really struck me. I longed to return to my creative roots.” His life took a turn when his son Leon was born in 2012 and later moved to Brazil alongside his mother. “Visiting him frequently resulted in my work taking a back seat. I had other priorities to attend to, but also, spending ample time in a foreign land brimming with new experiences proved to be inspirational.” It marked the start of his journey as a dedicated artist and his life took a significant turn in 2015 when he decided to take some time off to spend half a year in Brazil. He seized this opportunity to bask in the sun, bond with his son, and to paint without the distractions and pressures of managing a business intruding his creative process. “As cliché as it sounds, the essence of art lies in the process. The moment I resumed painting, it felt like I had attained the affirmation I needed to confirm that indeed, I am a painter,” he concluded.
Leon currently resides in Dublin, while Conor juggles his time between work, family duties, and his passion for art, striking a balance that satisfies both him and his brother. Marc, alongside an incredible woman whom he credits, plays a dual role as a father to five-year-old Fleur. “While discussing my personal life outside work used to be a source of sorrow, that’s no longer the case, owing to the presence of my darling little girl,” he explains with a self-deprecating chuckle. “Juggling parenting duties with Fleur’s mother, our playtime, full of fun and engaging children activities, reinvigorates me. This increased family duty doesn’t rob me of my ambition to excel in my business, instead, it has prompted me to structure my lifestyle.” Marc reminisces about the period they inaugurated Orwell Road and Row Wine Bar when he fully immersed himself in all chores. His commitment extends to Coppinger, except now he ensures he leaves work at a decent hour.
The primary task for the brothers in the forthcoming months is encapsulated in the successful establishment of Coppinger. They speak highly of Dublin’s blossoming restaurant industry and frequently dine out to experience the offerings of their competitors. “The restaurant industry is engaging and demands personal involvement, which we willingly provide,” asserts Conor. They cordially acknowledge some of their preferred food spots, ranging from Mamó in Howth to Kicky’s on South George’s Street. “When Dan and I had lunch there recently, I aimed at identifying faults but found none,” chuckles Marc. “Allta does an exceptional job too,” Conor chimes in. Both brothers laud the quality offered by Dublin’s Asian cuisine, particularly at Boss Stop, which Marc labels as exceptional.
Post the hectic Coppinger inauguration, Conor plans to retreat to his art studio in September to generate more artwork, while Marc intends to streamline the existing businesses. “We’ve focused on launches in the recent past, however, going forward we aim to prioritise enhancement of existing establishments over new ventures. We’ve already bitten off quite a chunk,” Marc comments, showing a sense of humour.