Dubbed the Fifth Avenue or the Champs Élysées of Shanghai, Huaihai Road is typically adorned with malls, grant department stores, and key outlets for international fashion labels. Recently, however, the emphasis has shifted to locally crafted garments made from unconventional materials such as reclaimed plastics and salvaged bicycle tubing at the latest high street attraction.
Formerly known as a bright pink Barbie store, HAI550 has now been transformed into an expansive, eight-floored, 7,000sq m sustainable lifestyle mall – the first of its kind in China. The endeavour is backed by Youngor, a Chinese fashion retailer that boasts a portfolio of global brands including Undefeated and Helly Hanson, alongside owning shares in the label of Alexander Wang. Their primary focus is to attract the financially well-off populace.
The typical customer base is formed by those who are generally well-educated, have travelled abroad and harbour immense respect for unique designs, says Cindy Wang, the owner of one of the shops in the mall that offers eco-friendly clothing and footwear. “All items are made from recycled materials – all the way from leather to denim, which is reclaimed plastics, and even the shoe sole that is crafted from natural rubber and discarded wine corks.”
China has witnessed a significant deviation towards greener practices in its transition journey over recent years. Thanks to colossal investments directed towards renewable energy, it now stands as a global pioneer in executing solar and wind power projects, besides electric vehicle production. Some even attest to noticing much cleaner air and quieter urban streets impacted by the high prevalence of electric cars.
Nevertheless, being the global hub of mainstream fashion with firms such as Shein and Temu, China also happens to be a major contributor to textile waste. Around 26 million tons of clothing, predominantly synthetic, are discarded annually in the country and a major chunk is dumped in landfills.
The ground floor of HAI550 is dedicated for pop-up shops and art exhibitions and the upward-only escalator is installed to conserve energy. Each level blends retail outlets with a range of goods including locally sourced perfumes, fashion items, jewellery, sportswear, outdoors gear, and organic foodstuffs.
You can find Uoosee bags made from reclaimed bike tyre inner tubes, rain boots upcycled by art accessory label PabePabe. Though the price range generally surpasses that of regular fashion hubs on the Huaihai Road, Cindy Wang asserts that these customers prefer a different shopping experience by choosing outlets like hers.
“Our design follows a minimalist aesthetic and is built to last, resulting in a smaller product range. We are also invested in creating sustainable designs. This isn’t about fleeting fashion trends; rather, the design is guided by a sustained philosophy and concept,” she explained.
“While this is still a novelty in China, the enormous population ensures we have a dedicated community. It’s not designed to suit everyone, but it distinctly resonates in Shanghai, a city on the pulse of modern trends.”
Earlier this month, the fourth floor of HAI550 hosted an art exhibition inspired by food, showcasing a variety of mediums including paintings, photographs and ceramics. An eye-catching installation involved a wall adorned with rows of differently wrapped toilet papers, and a couple of rolls were suspended for visitors to touch and experience.
This is all about Qtopia – a sustainable brand of toilet paper launched recently by Jeremie Thircuir. He is a French art curator, publisher and ceramic artist, who made Shanghai his home 18 years ago. Qtopia’s toilet paper is completely made of bamboo – a fast-growing plant that can be regrown quickly after harvesting and is abundant in China.
“Although toilet paper might seem mundane, its ubiquity and high consumption rate make its environmental impact significant. We’re talking about countless trees being felled just for toilet paper production,” Thircuir remarked.
“If we could successfully shift people’s usage to a different, more environmentally-friendly material, we could achieve a immense positive change. At present, approximately 40 per cent of all trees are cut down for papermaking, and toilet paper production consumes half of this. So, we’re looking at a devastating 20 per cent of total trees.”
While HAI550 serves as a display platform for Qtopia, the majority of its sales and marketing take place online, where the product commands a top-tier pricing. Thircuir hopes to establish a culture around the brand, leveraging his connections in the art scene to invite artists to create unique packaging designs every few months.
“In English, we call the brand Qtopia. Its Chinese equivalent also implies a utopian vision and literally translates to a world without faeces. The discussion about utopia is crucial globally as well as in China. It’s about asking ourselves what kind of future and ideal world we aspire to live in,” he added.
Individuals are increasingly seeking brands with a strong moral standpoint that reflect their own values. Brands that exhibit links to local origins and Chinese culture are becoming more desirable to consumers. Thus, the retail sector must cater to the evolving notions of the youth.
The economic repercussions of the Covid-19 pandemic coupled with a three-year slump in the property market has led to increased cost-sensitivity among Chinese consumers. According to a report from a worker at HAI550, the priority order when purchasing an item begins with cost, followed by design, and later, environmental considerations.
Thircuir recognises the discrepancy between China and Europe’s awareness and sanctity regarding environmental causes. Although sustainable practices still have to permeate the Chinese consumer industry, Thircuir is inclined towards a shifting attitude. He anticipates this change to be initiated from both, the upper and lower echelons of society.
Chinese politics is seeing new policies for advancing sustainability. Also, recognising this shift, a growing number of brands are adopting sustainable operations. Meanwhile, younger Chinese individuals who have studied abroad are ushering in a surge in environmental consciousness, aware of ecological issues and global warming.
Thircuir suggests that political action can potentially ban plastic bags entirely. This illustrates the significant potential of political measures for implementing such changes compared to individual actions. Thircuir is confident in China’s ability to enforce these policies, and this might be a necessity given the slowing economy, which in turn could necessitate the introduction of new growth-inducing mechanisms. He believes one such factor could be the consensus on sustainability and the rise in demand for sustainable products; thereby expressing optimism about the future.