Greystones could very well be the happiest corner of the globe. I observe a petite, high-voiced blonde at a four-seat table, and can’t help but recall the iconic “I’ll have what she’s having” phrase from When Harry Met Sally. Only, it’s less for sensual pleasures and more for sheer joy in this instance. Our extremely engaging waitress suggests ordering from each of the menu’s four sections, adding a side to our main dishes, then inquires if we’d prefer flat or fizzy water. I can’t help but question what concerns me the most – my senses or the upselling in progress.
A word to the wise: ensure your mobile phone is fully powered before you hop on the Dart to Greystones. It’s practically obligatory to bring a torchlight in order to read the menu at Caladh, a new dining establishment set up by Brian Walsh and Paul Foley, the masterminds behind the Pigeon House in Delgany. The place is stylishly outfitted with a blend of low and high seating and a bar setup runs along one leg of the space. Unfortunately, the subdued lighting doesn’t distract from the noise, or the oversight of missing acoustic panels.
Caladh translates to harbour in Irish, appropriately reflected in the menu’s abundance of seafood choices. Meat-lovers aren’t forgotten either. It apparently looks like they’ve got enough patronage to maintain the business with just a single main course option, considering everyone appears to be ordering Peter Hannon’s salt-aged striploin, served with pressed fries (€39pp).
The suggested four-course meal commences with a Flaggy Shore oyster laced with mignonette (€3). Mignonette traditionally accompanies the oyster, a blend of red wine vinegar and shallots, but here, it has been liberally splashed on the shellfish, overpowering the delicate sweetness and saltiness. The sourdough focaccia, served with a scoop of herb butter (€6), doesn’t hit the mark I’d expect of a 48-hour ferment. Perhaps this inconsistency can be attributed to the unpredictable nature of a sourdough starter.
At Caladh, an assortment of red and white wines below €40 is available, complemented by an intriguing selection that also includes plenty of glasses, an array of cocktails, Whiplash beer and a noticeable number of non-alcoholic drinks. A crisp glass of Baron De Badassière Picpoul de Pinet, priced at €35, pairs excellently with the dishes chosen.
The well-prepared squash ravioli, costing €16, showcases a delicate pasta that hasn’t been left to sit for an excessive period before being cooked. The presence of squash and a touch of lemon zest imparts a sweet aspect to the filling, however, a dash of lemon juice in the rich, brown butter sauce would serve to balance the acidity. Three scallop pieces, similarly priced at €16, are expertly caramelised on one side, accompanied by three compact pieces of black pudding and a slightly sweet sauce that’s sufficiently offset by fresh rhubarb.
Many restaurants often falter at the main course stage, yet this is seemingly where Caladh flourishes. The grilled Andarl Farm pork chop, at €28, is well-received, its dusting of spice resulting in a smokey flavour, served alongside hispi cabbage, fennel and apple. The excellently cooked halibut, priced at €36, comes with grilled fennel, a buttery carrot purée and toasted hazelnuts. We selected a salad, for €5, as a side, a medley of leaves generously topped with slightly sweet vinaigrette that mirrors earlier dishes which could benefit from a dab of acidity.
The dessert choice was a compact chocolate mousse for €9; its sweetness and density are contrasted by the refreshing slices of blood orange and ice cream, and the sesame tuile provides a pleasant crunch.
One could argue that Caladh’s prices veer towards the higher end, only slightly less than what one might pay in Dublin’s Library Street or Allta. The custom of adding a “discretionary gratuity” of 10% feels a touch unsuitable for a neighbourhood eatery, particularly given this clientele appears likely to tip generously.
The ambiance genuinely charming, it’s a jovial venue where it seems everyone is acquainted. Some consideration towards the acoustics would greatly enhance the overall experience by reducing the echo of the cheerful chatter.
A supper for a pair, complemented with a bottle of wine and inclusive of a 10% service fee amounted to €169.40.
Rating: 7.5 out of 10
Background music: Unclear, due to the high level of noise it was impossible to discern the music selection.
Ingredients sourced from: Glenmar Seafood, Peter Hannon meats, Gold River Farm and Caterway.
Vegetarian offerings include: Focaccia, ravioli packed with squash and oven roasted cauliflower combined with almond, raisin and curry flavours; vegans can also be catered for.
Access for disabled: Completely accessible, featuring a wheelchair-friendly toilet.