Cape May is indeed a quaint coastal city located at the southernmost point of New Jersey. While it’s rich in Irish culture, the town presents a fusion of Norman Rockwell and Laura Ashley-inspired aesthetics, featuring vintage-Victorian establishments, picturesque stores, and an overall American holiday vibe. On a typical day, you might half-expect to spot Chief Brody from Jaws strolling around, scrutinising the sea.
When July 12th weekend arrives and an eerie Atlantic squall manifests alongside the consistent downpour, Cape May’s Irish character becomes even more pronounced. On such a day, you might find Joe Fahy, a local resident of half a century, performing volunteer work as a ticket vendor in front of the Star of the Sea church. The prize for the $2 ticket is a shiny new car.
Fahy, once a social worker, enjoys discussing his long history with Cape May. His wife, Jean, formerly operated an Irish gift store along the main street. Over the years, they’ve regularly attended trade shows at the RDS and spent time at Hyland hotel on the Diamond in Donegal.
Their story began in the south of Philadelphia, amidst a strong Irish-Italian community where they first crossed paths in school at the young age of eight. They eventually became a couple after moving to the coastal town, with the owner of the local liquor store becoming their landlord – a situation Fahy humorously refers to as an “Irish man’s dream.”
Cape May (population 4,000), an entrenched Republican standpoint, indulges in a strong Irish connection, largely due to Philadelphia’s influence. It’s the favoured location for Irish individuals from Philly to unwind by the sea or to retire. Astonishingly, as per US census data, Cape May holds the highest percentage (28.6%) of residents self-identifying as having Irish lineage in the country.
Fahy goes on to say, “We have a board of chosen freeholders that governs us. In the 300-year history of the county, there have only been two Democrats, one of whom eventually flipped and became a Republican congressman, Jeff Van Drew.”
Mary Stewart, a local artist, is presently employed at Cape May’s Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts, yet her familial history carries a subtle sense of wonder. Her grandfather, John Heron (1855-1938), relocated from Donegal to Cape May in 1884 when his employer, John Betz, purchased the Stockton Hotel. A year later, Margaret Mary Gallagher, another immigrant from Donegal, landed in the same town. The couple wed in 1895 and John eventually flourished in his profession as a beer vendor to such an extent that they were able to make a trip back to Ireland with a few of their nine offspring in the 1920s. Mary recounts that her grandfather was taken aback by the scarcity of facilities that he had become accustomated to in America.
Mary recalls the family patriarch posing in front of the summer cottage that they still retain. Her grandparents invested in the family property in 1919 at a remarkable $1,000. The value escalated to about $12,000 after half a century and currently stands at a whopping $1 million (closing to €920 million). Stewart describes it as, “a fairly humble dwelling situated on a pleasing residential road with no provision for parking, a rather coveted feature in Cape May.”
She humorously notes that she would seize the chance to purchase the property if she had an additional million to spare.
Cape May’s resort has seen a shift in its character over the last quarter of the century due to the surge in property rates. One of the local entrepreneurs, Jimmy McHugh, operates two fudge stores in the area, a haven for those with a sweet tooth. Despite his profession, Jimmy surprisingly maintains an athletic physique.
A typical day for him involves 10 hours of physical labour, preparing the treats for customers. He admits to indulging in his products from time to time, but generally tries to avoid it.
Today, he employs two young individuals from Ireland at The Original Fudge Kitchen for the summer. This is a far cry from 20 years ago when Cape May was swarming with Irish students working on J1 visas, out for new experiences and a bit of fun. That role is now predominantly filled by individuals from Eastern Europe.
Jimmy, who proudly identifies with his Irish heritage, lightheartedly notes that with the stabilisation of the Irish economy, the diaspora began to dwindle. Tracing his own lineage back to the McHughs, three generations removed from Cork, he remains aware of the strong Iirsh historic presence along the eastern coast. This includes a McHugh on the USS Hunley, a civil war submarine.
Cape May takes pride in its diverse history, which was unconsciously set in place by a monstrous fire a hundred years ago. This accidental makeover shaped it into a beautiful beachside retreat, boasting a vast collection of American-Victorian dwellings. Only San Francisco compares in terms of the range and magnitude of these ornamental, wooden homes.
The aftermath of World War II left the city lifeless, but its fortune changed in 1970 when Tom and Sue Carroll, a coast guard pair, launched the first bed and breakfast. This instigated the city’s transformation into a family-friendly resort. The nature of its seasonal crowd has however shifted with the rise of Airbnb, with half of the houses owned by nonresidents.
During the bustling summer weekends, inhabitants spike ten times, but during winter, the numbers dwindle to around 2,000 as half of them escape to Florida. It is during these quieter times that Joe Fahy notes the Irish influence in the county becomes more prominent, despite the absence of distinctively Irish symbols like the shamrock or Tricolour in Cape May city. The city, with its 33-degree heat, bears more resemblance to a quintessential English seaside town.
Lamentably, Jean Fahy’s Irish gift shop, a formerly familiar sight on Washington Street, closed a few years following her demise. “The internet demolished us,” Joe despairs. The number of Irish stores in Jersey has dramatically dropped from approximately 30 to a mere couple.
Despite the changes, the town’s sense of community remains, as to does the rhythm of life familiar to Ireland. Jean would visit the local shoe seller to help her housebound mother choose footwear. She would take several pairs home for her mother to try and would pay for the pair that was selected, whilst returning the others. The town, nonetheless, is undeniably undergoing a transition, with property sales on the rise.
While Joe is engrossed in his conversation, he successfully sells six ticket books, each for $20, in a swift process. With humour, he admits holding them up with his chit-chat. The discourse soon switches to the topic of political elections, and he admits his lack of admiration for Joe Biden. When asked about the potential impact of Donald Trump securing a second term in office, he pauses to ponder.
In Joe’s opinion, America could benefit from utilising its own oil resources. While he doesn’t oppose conservation, he does take issue with the current solutions proposed. He harbours concerns about the legal immigration process, advocating for a proper vetting system when new folks come in. He admits feeling anxious about the state of his country, doubting that anything will happen soon due to fear of influencing the elections. However, he envisions the potential for increased vulnerability to terrorism post-election, stating not everyone immigrates for a honest job. He ensures that these views are common among his peers.
This conversation takes place just before an incident where a young Pennsylvanian attempts to assassinate the former President Trump. On the topic of the election, Joe confesses his uncertainty. His decision will be based on who he perceives as the less harmful option. As a resident of Cape May, a place filled with diverse individuals and small businesses, the prime concern is financial prosperity. Although he feels the social issues deeply, prevailing essence is about ‘doing what they’ve always done’.
The upcoming November election outcome will undeniably reflect Cape May’s persistent leaning towards Republican values, despite its gradual transformation into a wealthier zone influenced by affluent Philadelphia, New York and Jersey locals. But that isn’t the case just yet.
As voiced by Mary Stewart, she keeps a profound emotional connection to the venues in Cape May that her forefathers frequented. Despite numerous alterations, some aspects hold through – she attends the familiar church, dines and drinks in some unchanged establishments, and reclines on the well-known beach, reminiscent of photos from the 1890s in a Cape May studio.
The authentic values that characterised Cape May – the refreshing sea breeze, the high-quality seafood, and the leisurely lifestyle it promotes, are what will guide it through many more seasons of winter and summer.