Italy possesses an abundant variety of over 350 certified grape types, making it a rewarding exploration spot for those weary of globally prevalent grape varieties. Recently, my travels took me to Colli Tortonesi, a southeastern sector of Piemonte, where an Italian grape type experienced a resurgence. Walter Massa, a producer, found the final remnants of an aged local white grape known as timorasso approximately 34 years ago.
Initially, timorasso may not appear a trully remarkable grape, characterised by its naturally elevated alcohol content, high acidity, and some inherent tannins. It invariably pops onto the palate distinctively compared to traditional white wines. The necessity for maturation in the bottle for several years before it becomes enjoyably drinkable might further imply it’s not a mass appeal grape. Growing it is reportedly also a challenge.
Nevertheless, the Colli Tortonesi region, currently renamed Derthona in honour of Tortona’s Roman moniker, gone from a handful of acres to over 60 cultivators. Some even originating from the nearby Barolo, and the grape has gained a cult following in Italy. I recommended the superb Coppi Vigna Marina Timorasso Colli 2020 as one of the past year’s standout wines, definitely worth your attention. For now, only a limited selection of timorasso can be located here, hence I’ve incorporated a few additional Italian native wines.
The Verdicchio is sourced from Marche, situated to Rome’s east. The exquisite Falanghina originates from Campania, a volcanic region encapsulating Naples, and Terrre Nere is created from grapes cultivated on Mount Etna’s slopes.
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 2023, Marches
12.5%, €7.69
A suitable, light, easily consumed white wine with healthy acidity and mellow, rounded fruits.
Available at Aldi
Falanghina ‘Insania’ 2022 Cantina Bambinuto
13.5%, €24
This fine, sturdy, crisp green fruit-infused wine has a unique saline undertone and copious revitalising acidity. Unveils its full charm gracefully, ideal to accompany spaghetti with clams or other similar seafood dishes.
Find it at Sheridan’s Cheesemongers, Nelly’s D9, Redmonds D6W, and The Store Next Door, Westport.
Inquiring about amaro and how to use it?
Consider giving the Oltretorrente Derthona Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021 a try. This Italian wine boasts a full-bodied flavour profile consisting of a buttery texture and nutty almond undertones, all balanced by a lively acidity. It pairs excellently with dishes such as grilled salmon. You can find it at Green Man Wines and 64wine in Glasthule, for €36.
Alternatively, you might find the Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco 2022 more to your liking. It brings forth an exquisite elegance with its prominent fresh acidity and herbaceous tones, ending with a pleasingly dry finish. Priced at €35, it can be purchased from 64 Wine, Baggot Street Wines, Café Rua, Mitchell & Sons in Glasthule and IFSC, as well as Deveney’s.